Here in the Northern California Road Bike Rider headquarters, winter is the rainy season. But if it’s raining where you are now, these technical tips on dealing with rain will come in handy. If it’s dry for you now, then save these for later during the fall, winter or spring showers where you live. Disclaimer: these tips are mostly for rainy riding on pavement rather than dirt or gravel, where wear and tear is worse.
To start with, a very simple rainy day tip that I learned from riders a lot smarter than I am: Keep in mind that there’s no rule that you have to ride – or keep riding – when it’s raining. For example, I was surprised on a group ride in England once: When it started to pour, the whole paceline suddenly turned up a driveway to stop and wait out the deluge under an overhang. What a concept!
Sometimes the rain’s not going to stop, though, and you’ll have to ride in it to get home. But if you can at least avoid the worst of it, you can reduce your exposure and how much you trash your components, too.
Tips for before rainy rides
Make sure your tires are ready. Roads get much worse when it’s raining, both from debris being washed into the lanes and from damage like potholes and ruts appearing. These hazards increase the chance of puncturing. For these reasons, it’s smart to check and make sure your tires are in good shape. If you’re riding all season on bad roads, you may want to install a set of heavier, more durable tires. Keep in mind that you’ll have better traction with slightly lower pressures, too.
Carry more for flat tire repair. For the same reasons you want to have good tires for rainy rides, you should be more ready for flats. I carry 2 spare tubes, a tire “boot” (a square cut from an old tire to use as a tire patch should I need to fix a cut tire), and a mechanical pump that inflates quickly. If it’s wet, you can get cold, so I want a reliable and quick pump.
Check your brake shoes and cables. With rim braking the rain significantly increases your stopping distance and how hard you need to squeeze the levers to stop. It’s best to learn to pump your levers, which allows the brake pads to wipe off the moisture and then they’ll start gripping more. To be sure you have reliable stopping power, your pads should be relatively new and your cables should be in perfect condition. Note that you may wish to install pads made for rainy conditions, too, such as Kool Stop’s Salmon model. Most disc brakes are more powerful and durable and it takes many long rainy rides before the brake shoes wear or there are other issues.
Keep components well-lubricated. Riding in the rain blasts your components with water and with enough time and spray, the lubricants can be washed right off. To prevent this, be sure to apply lube before and after rainy rides. Remember that it takes hours for lubes to penetrate and dry. If your lube is washing right off, you could be using one made for dry conditions. Upgrade to a “wet” lube for better results.
Protect components and accessories. Give your rain rig the once over and make sure nothing’s at risk. For example, a single rain ride can ruin some vintage style leather seats (waterproof it!). Likewise, some accessories may get damaged from the rain, like my pricey PowerTap watt meter. I leave it home when it’s raining.
Don’t forget the stuff in your seatbag! Water can shoot off the rear wheel and soak the seat bag. If you’ve got metal tools in there, they can rust and not work when you need them. Anything at risk you’ll want to put in a waterproof baggie or container.
Consider fenders. I have a portable rear fender I simply snap on over the rear wheel. It protects me, my bike and keeps spray from my rear wheel from bothering followers (the dreaded “roostertail”). There are plenty of options in easy on/off fenders like this. Or go with a full fender set for superior protection. Keep in mind that full coverage keeps the water out of your greased components, the headset and bottom bracket, too.
Tips for during rainy rides
Bring the right gear. If you’re prepared for rain, your rides will be more enjoyable and safer, too. A cyclist’s cap can be stuffed in a pocket and put on beneath a helmet to help keep water out of your eyes. A helmet cover can keep your head dryer. Clear or lighter lenses in glasses will improve visibility. Long-finger gloves keep you warm and ensure your hands don’t slip on handlebars or brake/shift levers.
Protect your cellphone. I’ve gotten in the habit of carrying my cellphone in my pocket for emergencies. It’s got a case, but I double up to be prepared for rain with a waterproof storage pouch, which is also great for carrying ID and a little bit of cash for emergencies.
Be more aware. As I already covered, rain can mean bad traction and increased stopping distance, additional road debris and potholes opening up. It’s smart to leave more room between the rider in front so that you can see hazards and react in time.
Slow down on descents. Even familiar roads can hold dangerous surprises when it’s been raining. And the longer stopping time means braking even earlier before downhill curves. Give yourself time to safely navigate the route and to take evasive action by slowing down.
Consider different routes. Since rain holds similar challenges for drivers as it does for cyclists, it makes good sense to think whether the route you’re riding is smart. If there’s another with less traffic, it might be a better choice.
Tips for after rainy rides
Care for your expensive gear. Remove any shoe inserts and stuff newspaper inside your shoes to dry them. If they were waterlogged, you may need to repeat this a few times with fresh newspaper. Don’t put the shoes over a heating vent or they may shrink or even come apart with enough heat. You may want to rinse off your helmet and your clothing before laundering if it got sprayed with a lot of dirt while you were riding.
Clean your bike ASAP to remove grit and grime. You might be able to simply hose it off with gentle water pressure. But if it’s picked up grime, you’ll want to use warm, soapy water and a sponge to clean that off, paying attention to all the nooks and crannies in the components. Be sure to dry everything after washing.
Pay special attention to rim brake pads. The dirt and debris washed onto the road will get picked up by the pads when braking. If enough dirt gets into the pads, they can begin to act like sandpaper and actually damage your rims every time you brake. To avoid this, take off the wheels and look closely at the surface of all 4 pads for anything hard embedded in the pads, and pick it all out with a pick or awl.
Lubricate components. Since the rain likely washed it off, add lube to the chain and components and let it penetrate and dry. Don’t forget the pivot points on the brakes, derailleurs and levers, which will retain moisture if you don’t replace it with lube.
If you’re a rain warrior with more tips and tricks, please help your fellow roadies by sharing them in the comments below this article.
Fenders, Fenders, Fenders… And have a nice long tail on that rear fender so I don’t get a face full of slop, I do so that you won’t. It’s winter here, Washington, it rains and the roads are pretty much always wet, so, get some fenders!
They’ll keep your drivetrain in great shape also.
Mike Schwagler asked me to post for him: “For what it’s worth, a pair of nitrile/latex examination gloves under your riding gloves will keep your hands warm – it’s like wetsuit for your fingers. Learned that skiing (Ski Patrol) in the wet Northwest. Yes, we do indeed ski in the rain…”
Showers Pass has some nice waterproof gloves I reviewed a while back
https://www.roadbikerider.com/showers-pass-crosspoint-knit-waterproof-gloves-review/
I have used my showers pass waterproof gloves twice on long rainy rides – they work great, are light (make sure you select the right model); your hands stay dry, and very importantly, don’t retain too much heat.
My solution to bad weather riding is to ride my gravel bike. I have two sets of wheels for it; one with 38c gravel tires and the other with 32c ‘all-conditions’ tires. I ride the 32c tires whenever the conditions are less than ideal and/or I’ll be on mixed surfaces. Having this setup has got me (almost) looking forward to bad weather. Finally, as a NorCal resident, there is a bit of irony with this column in that it hasn’t rained in weeks and there is no rain in theforecast. I’ll be on the bike this afternoon in sunny, mid 70+ degree temps. Life is good.
We call that long tail on the rear fender a “buddy flap.” Standard fenders do not stop the rooster tail from going right into the following rider’s face when in a paceline.
Check out the “Green Glove Dryer” on Amazon. Works for gloves, shoes, etc. Works great for me here in Portland, OR. EVERY DAY!!!
My mother did not suffer fools gladly and would remark derisively that a person did not have the good sense to come in out of the rain. I never start a ride in the rain and if I get got in rain that was not forecast, I will generally calculate the shortest route home and take it. Some lessons learned in childhood do stick.
Fixieguy –
Yo momma didn’t live in the Pacific Northwest where you either ride in the rain or don’t ride – for month after month after month!
Or an alternative for an even warmer solution: wear a pair of large, heavy, work rubber gloves over your riding/warmth bike gloves.
The full finger gloves should be water proof or water resistant. For post-ride bike washing, I have found a soft to medium stiff brush is far better than a sponge.
When my shoes get soaked I stuff in a damp ShamWow. Nothing sucks up waterer better or faster. I also roll my wet kit up in a ShamWow and it’s dry by morning.
Thank you for this helpful information, Jim. I really liked it, I love to ride in the rain, the feeling is magical!!
4 more IMPORTANT tips
..Do NOT ride on painted lines
..If you have carbon rims, braking is poor at best, and none at worst in the rain
..The road is slippery, if you have to stand, lean back to put more weight on the rear tire
..The ‘only’ item that will rust is your chain. Dry it and lube it immediately after a ride in the rain
What a great article!
I tried a piece of old tire once but when running on 23mm tire (back before wider is better) I felt a good bump while riding, plus it had a tendency to move, I also tried a dollar bill and mylar only to find they got penetrated easily. I use the Park tire boot, it’s thinner than a piece of tire though I still feel a slight bump but not as pronounced, it sticks to the inside of the tire so it doesn’t move, and it can’t be penetrated.
The second thing I do is put stuff I don’t want to get wet in my saddle bag into ziplock bags; I also spray the bag with a waterproofing spray, but the zipper on saddle bags are not waterproof and the only way to stop that is to take a black crayon and go over the zipper but that only last till you use the zipper the first time. I do have to respray the bag every season. Not sure why manufactures of most saddle bags don’t just make them waterproof.
Some tires simply are not good enough for riding on streets, you may not like the extra weight but you need to find tires that will hold up to street and rainy situations; where I live I encounter a lot of potholes, large cracks etc due to the freeze and thaw cycle so I need a robust tire. If you’re training or riding for fitness you’re not racing so there is no need to have the lightest tire. There are a lot of tires designed for street and rain on the market with durability and flat protection in mind, I use the Specialized Roubaix Pro which gets very high reviews on the internet, I think the Specialized Roubaix Pro tires may be the best tire I’ve ever used for the conditions I encounter; also the Michelin Pro4 Endurance is getting high reviews for poor roads.
Both tire recommendations are solid in my opinion. Good choices for poor and wet roads.
My experience is that disc brake pads may last a lot shorter than rim brake pads in wet weather … the article seems to suggest the opposite.
Jim;
Good article and all good tips, but the one thing I never see addressed for rain riding is what to wear from the waist down.
We have all kinds of rain jackets, overshoes and gloves but I haven’t found a good solution for legs.
Regular shorts can be too cold. Leg/knee warmers can get cold when wet and tights can be too hot in warmer rain.
I have even tried bare legs/heat rub and Vaseline which actually worked pretty good.
What are others using?
Maybe an article on this subject would be a good read??
Thanks for the suggestion, Bryan. I will think about this idea.
To avoid flats go tubeless.
Matt K
Much of the road spray that stripes your jerseys, jackets, shorts, when it’s raining has a lot of oil & grease in it. This is laid down from cars, their exhaust & their tires. I’ve found the absolute way to clean this off is to spray it with full strength Simple Green prior to putting in the washer. Spray it until it’s nearly soaked, let it sit for a few minutes before washing. When it comes out of the washer it’ll be like new.
And for those of you that are gasping about using Simple Green &/or putting your cycling kit in the washer, I know you’re out there, please don’t bother to troll about it. I’m 76 years old, have been riding been riding for 54 years 60 years, & have worn all kinds of cycle clothes from very inexpensive to very expensive. This method has never harmed any of them.
Cool tip, Larry. Thank you!
Jim
I rode the NYC 5 Boros ride this year in the pouring rain….put RainX on my glasses before the ride (along w/ other ideas above) and it really helped shed the water…
Nice tip, Chris! Thanks!
Jim
re rain rides – you didn;t say ‘try to keep brakes dry by applying periodically – if you don’t , the first few seconds of ‘stopping’ might not work..
Thanks for adding that great advice, “WLE.!”
Jim
I carry a piece of leather that I cut off a leather glove (found while riding) to be a boot for an emergency repair of a badly cut tire to get back on the road and get home. The price was right and it worked fine the only time I needed it. ~0le
I carry a 55-gallon Drum Liner (available from Home Depot) as an emergency rain jacket. It is strong, clear, light plastic Technique to put on: * Pull over head with head in one corner. * Put on helmet and buckle it under chin. * Cut (carefully) a circle out of the plastic for eyes, nose and mouth. (size of circle depends on how cold you fear you’ll be getting). * Cut U-shaped holes for hands where appropriate. * Cram the flap from the hand holes under the Velcro strap of each riding glove. These bags are cheap enough $25 for 50 of them, so take a box of them to the club meeting and practice. I do the actual cutting and fitting only when needed so that the bag is folded and small in my seat bag. ~0le
I got this tip from a pro, ‘my son’. When yo arrive home after a rainy ride wipe your chain with a dry cloth/rag which will stop it rusting.