QUESTION: Because I dislike indoor cycling, I’m planning to keep riding outdoors whenever possible this winter. But I’m wondering how much to wear to keep warm without getting overheated. I know about dressing in layers, with wicking-fabric base layers, insulating layers and wind-breaking outer layers. But that’s not very precise, and it’s easy to have too little or too much on. Any suggestions? —Sondra L.
RBR’S STAN PURDUM REPLIES: You’re right; while the dress-in-layers advice is correct, it’s not dialed in to every temperature. The clothes that keep you warm at 35 degrees are too much at 45 degrees and not enough at 25 degrees. And the related problem is, how do you remember from year to year how much was right at say 30 degrees?
So, several years ago, having tired of pedaling with too much or too little on — and not remembering from one year to the next, I started keeping a record of what I actually needed to wear to stay comfortable at various temperatures. Through trial and error, I discovered that for every five degrees the temperature drops below 70, I need to add a garment or covering on some part of my body — head, upper body, lower body, hands or feet. I put all this info in a chart, and I’ve learned to trust it.
Now, when planning to ride, I check the weather forecast on the internet (www.weather.com) for the area I intend to pedal and go by the “feels-like” temperature (since, for example what I need on at 55 degrees with a 10 mph wind is more than what I need at 55 degrees on a calm day.) Then I simply check my chart for that temperature, and put on however many layers the chart indicates. That saves a lot of time, and I am seldom over or under dressed for the conditions.
I am including my chart below, but only as a model. (Another option is to check out this article that goes into great detail about what to wear at various temperatures.) There were a couple of winters when I did ride in feels-like temps as low as 10, but I’ve long since moved my bottom line to about 30 degrees. Since we don’t all feel temperatures the same, my example may call for too many layers for some of our readers and not enough for others. The whole chart idea may seem too obsessive for those who can carry all this info in their heads or who have a high tolerance for cold. But, for the rest of us, here it is:
| Feels-like temperature | head | upper body | lower body | hands | feet |
| 70 and above | helmet | short-sleeve jersey | bike shorts | fingerless gloves | ankle socks bike shoes |
| 65 | helmet | short-sleeve jersey 1 short-sleeve jersey 2 arm warmers off/on | bike shorts | fingerless gloves | ankle socks bike shoes |
| 60 | helmet | under jersey over jersey | bike shorts leggings | fingerless gloves | hiking socks bike shoes |
| 55 | helmet skull cap | under jersey under jersey over jersey | bike shorts leggings or tights | fingerless gloves | hiking socks bike shoes |
| 50 | helmet skull cap/flaps | under jersey, middle jersey over jersey windbreaker on/off | bike shorts tights | long gloves | hiking socks wind socks bike shoes |
| 45 | helmet skull cap/flaps balaclava | under jersey, middle jersey over jersey windbreaker on/off | bike shorts winter tights | long gloves | hiking socks wind socks bike shoes |
| 40 | helmet skull cap/flaps balaclava | mock under jersey under jersey over jersey fleece vest windbreaker on/off | bike shorts winter tights | double gloves | hiking socks wind socks bike shoes booties |
| 35 | helmet helmet cover balaclava skull cap/flaps | mock under jersey heavy under jersey over jersey fleece vest windbreaker on/off | bike shorts winter tights | double gloves | hiking socks wind socks bike shoes booties |
| 30 | helmet helmet cover balaclava fleece balaclava | mock under jersey heavy under jersey over jersey fleece jersey windbreaker | bike shorts under tights winter tights | double gloves | hiking socks wind socks, bike shoes booties |
| 25 | helmet helmet cover balaclava fleece balaclava | mock under jersey heavy under jersey over jersey, fleece jersey windbreaker | bike shorts under tights winter tights | double gloves | hiking socks wind socks, bike shoes booties toe covers overshoes |
| 20 | helmet helmet cover balaclava fleece balaclava | mock under jersey under jersey heavy under jersey over jersey fleece jersey windbreaker | bike shorts under tights winter tights wind pants | double gloves | liner socks hiking socks wind socks bike shoes booties toe covers overshoes |
| 15 | helmet helmet cover balaclava fleece balaclava hood | mock under jersey under jersey heavy under jersey over jersey fleece jersey windbreaker | bike shorts under tights winter tights wind pants | double gloves | liner socks hiking socks wind socks bike shoes booties toe covers overshoes |
| 10 | helmet helmet cover balaclava fleece balaclava hood face mask | mock under jersey under jersey heavy under jersey over jersey fleece jersey windbreaker | bike shorts under tights winter tights wind pants | double gloves | liner socks hiking socks wind socks bike shoes booties overshoes |
Stan Purdum has ridden several long-distance bike trips, including an across-America ride recounted in his book Roll Around Heaven All Day, and a trek on U.S. 62, from Niagara Falls, New York, to El Paso, Texas, the subject of his book Playing in Traffic. Stan, a freelance writer and editor, lives in Ohio. See more at www.StanPurdum.com.
Good day, Stan.
For what it is worth, your chart reflects my experience (over the temperatures in my area). While my ride area’s winter temperatures, in protected areas, can be around 30 degrees, I normally don’t experience temperatures below the mid 20’s. It’s interesting to see the outcome of your experiences.
An item that I use regularly when the temperature drops, is a pair of neoprene handlebar covers (porgies). (I realize that some feel uneasy using them. I’ve had no problems, but they do require some accommodation and self-training to use safely). However, I find that they do make a measurable difference when the temperature drops below the low 40’s.
While on the subject of temperature, during the winter, for safety’s sake, I make a point of trying to have good tires on the bicycle and taking other measures to avoid having to stop mid-ride to take care of problems.
I have a chemical heat pack that I sometimes carry during the coldest rides, in the event of an emergency.
Also, I ride with a small pack that is very helpful to facilitate real-time clothing adjustments, tools, food, & etc.
Thanks for your informative post.
The list above is a great guide and starting point. I love cool/cold weather riding, mainly because I’ve learned how to start warm, dry, and comfortable.
If your ride consists of one riding condition, or a shorter ride, the list above is all you’ll ever need and will work well. But for longer rides or if your rides encounter continually varying conditions (in and out of sun/shade/forests, or up and down hills), I find more flexibility and a hyper-modular approach is useful.
It is good to remember that “layers” come in two varieties: insulation layers and wind-protection layers.
I like to be very modular in my cool/cold temperature outer wear. Some Items like balaclavas are, for me, too warm for the varying conditions encountered on a bike ride, unless the temperature is very cold, or I am out in windy flats situation (ie a single, unchanging riding environment). Or a blizzard lol.
Note that cross-country skiers are not bundled up like downhill skiers are. Understand your riding style: like cross-country skiers athletic-all the time generating a lot of internal heat and requiring mainly windproof layers/protection at extremities like hands neck & feet. Or downhill skier style, minimal-effort & needing more comprehensive insulation-type & windproof layers. For most people, it’s going to be a mix of the two.
IBelow is what I do, in the order of increasing cold/need for layers, I add the layers on whatever part of me is cold. or equally important: whatever part of me is getting hot and sweaty. Sweaty clothes and cold temps are not good combo for both your safety & comfort.
-Hands: thin liner-gloves under bike gloves (quality ones are very durable), small mitts with tight cuffs, fleece & nylon windproof overmitts. Some people like heavy gloves, if that works for you that’s fine too. For me exposed skin is what I am initially avoiding, then I add varying levels of warmth & windproofness & sealing of hands into a warm micro-climate with mitts.
-Neck: short thin fleece tube (seals neck of vest or jacket), longer fleece neck tube, stretchy alpine ski neck tube
-Head: thin merino tuque, fleece headband. Balaclava if cold enough, but tbh I rarely use it until freezing temps.
arms: thin wool arm warmers, heavier outer-layer arm warmer. I sometimes use a windproof helmet cover. A stretchy fleece can go on outside of helmet too,
-Chest/core: double zipper cycling vest. Double zipper lets you rapidly vent heat or seal from wind as needed. Also gives access to cycling jersey rear pockets. I carry a jacket when cold/wind conditions require me to seal up arms and chest (you’ll know when, lol), or if precipitation arrives.
-Legs: thin tights, heavy tights (synthetic or wool). Base layer underwear. Bib style tights useful but make sure it’s not too snug, esp when bent over in cycling condition. (probably this is primarily a dude situation).
-Base layer underwear: as needed, useful if you are in a “never warm” situation, ie it’s sufficiently cold temperature or you’re not generating enough internal heat from cycling to keep warm with above. Or outside all day long.
Feet: I use DeFeet Woolie Boolie thick socks (they could be taller imo) if temperatures are below 70F, Then I add foot warmers. booties, and even switch to flat pedals and boots on one of my bikes. Most booties on the market today do not endure any level of walking at all, and I would like to see reviews of booties that have durable soles as a criteria. Boots need have to have extra space for warm air inside, so here in Quebec I hear people say all the time they go up one (or two!) shoe sizes for winter riding.
Eye protection always important and some people like to use goggles. Neutral grey lens colour is best choice. Coloured lenses you don’t see the colors at stop lights!
You need calories to burn to stay warm: Hot beverages with calories in them in the water bottle or at rest/warm up stops also very useful, Big breakfast & an energy drink with calories. !
Breaking up the ride into shorter segments with opportunity to warm up indoors a good tactic too.
A lot of the clothes I describe above are of the “winter outdoor sports” variety, so downhill and cross-country ski store end-of-season sales are a good opportunity to buy many of the items I describe above.
Here are a couple of rules that you might think are fashion rules, but I live by them: 1) Never wear black jackets or vests. Being invisible to car drivers isn’t safe. 2) If it’s not a double-zipper vest, it’s useless for cool/cold temperature cycling.
Now I’m never cold, and life is good.
Ditto on the above. Until one gets their clothing dialed in, and often thereafter, I recommend winter riding using a bike with a rack or large seat pack so that you can carry a small pannier or stuff sack for put-on-take-off. Shorter rides such as errands or commuting give you room to learn and make mistakes. Also, I’m getting to an age where I dress a little warmer and ride a little slower to minimize sweat.
This is a great discussion as we head into winter, a Utah mountain winter for me. My record for an early morning commute from my home 15 km from campus is -18C (about 0 F). My vertical is about 300 m (1000 ft) each day, mostly downhill in the morning and climbing when I return home. And no, I am not a young student, I am an old professor (-: The comments and the article above provide excellent guidance and I have just a few additions:
1) Battery-powered electric heated gloves. These come from alpine skiing and other winter sports and they have been a game changer for me. No combination of passive gloves has worked (you don’t want to see my gloves drawer). There are brands that address our market (I use Savior), keeping the bulk low and emphasizing warmth on the back of the hand.
2) Dedicated, lined winter cycling boots: there are several sources (I use Lake) but the added insulation and height of these boots are also a godsend when the temps drop below about 10C/50F.
3) A small backpack or pannier dedicated mostly to clothes: this nod to practicality is essential for my morning downhill and later afternoon uphill commutes. The same clothes are never going to work so I need some carrying capacity for the flexibility I need to come prepared for anything. My current favorite is the Stowaway from LL Bean.
I will add to the question of gauging of what to wear that humidity is a factor along with temperature. I am lucky to live in a dry climate so wet weather is not so much a challenge (and wet roads are an even bigger challenge with my hilly rides). Humid conditions are harder to adjust to in both directions so fine tuning is key.
Happy winter riding!
Rob (in Utah) https://www.sci.utah.edu/~macleod/bike/
Now add rain.
Don’t forget your fenders!
It’s always best to have a layer. or even two to many, you can always remove a layer and stick it in a pocket if you get uncomfortably warm.
Agree with Stan’s nice chart as a starting point.
I also factor in the specific ride planned. I dress heavier for an easy spin than a hard training ride (muscle heat production!). I ALWAYS carry an extra wrap when a spirited Fall/Winter ride includes a long stop like a meal break. A sweaty body can get COLD in a hurry on the spin home after a ‘dinner’ ride.
I always factor in the dew point as well. It makes a huge difference in how warm or cold it feels. Of course, dew point almost always coincides with wind direction. When it’s out of the north/northwest, it’s a cold wind with low dew points making it very difficult to keep fingers and toes warm. A south/southwest wind, almost always feels warmer with much more moisture in the air. A recent example from just a few days ago – we (Minnesotans) had temps in the low 60s but dew points in the 50s and it still felt like riding in the summer. Another example from a few years ago, I went for my first ever ride in the Phoenix area. I saw that the temperature was forecast to be in the 70s and sunny so I dressed for what I thought would be warm ride. The dew point, however, was in the 20s, I was shivering on that ride, especially whenever we stopped for a few minutes!
I highly recommend checking the dew points in conjunction with the temperature to figure out how to dress for a ride.
Much good advice here. Thanks all!
Checking back in to read the comments and I see that “what is cold, and what affects how we sense/perceive cold (temperature, sunshine or lack of it, winds, humidity, rain/wet, etc) is discussed.
I know the Inuit their base outdoor winter travel clothing specifically on NOT sweating and NOT getting their clothing sweat-soaked. Because then you have to warm both you, and all the water in the clothing, which is one way to get hypothermia.
May be a good time to discuss knowing and recognizing the signs of hypothermia and be able to identify it in others. A Maine canoe guide I know says she sees it most often in coolish/above-freezing temperatures, where people are casual about staying warm because “it’s not that cold out. ” I’ve sen hypothermia once in a sports partner and we recognized the signs and got him layered up and feeling better. A bad thing with hypothermia is your judgment and decision-making processes become impaired and that’s when bad things can start to happen, being overly goal-driven and not stopping to warm up, which can result in a range of possible negative outcomes..