Jim’s Tech Talk
By Jim Langley
One of the best technical developments recently has been that most chain companies are now providing special connecting links. They’ve become known as “quick links.” That’s because they can be connected by hand. Which makes them quick and easy compared to the days of old when the only way to install or repair a chain was by pushing out and driving back in a tight-fitting pin with a chain tool.
That job – still necessary on chains without quick links – requires the right tool (a quality tool, too). And, it isn’t that easy to accomplish. If it goes wrong, you’re often left with a stiff link causing an annoying skip every pedal stroke – or worse, a broken chain down the road.
Tips: If you have a chain without a quick link, you can get one for it. Just make sure the link matches your chain type, i.e. 8-, 9-, 10-, 11-speed. I recommend carrying a spare, too, because it’s the easy way to fix a broken chain on the road.
Links Line-up
Today, Shimano has their Quick Link; SRAM their Powerlock and Powerlink; Wipperman has their Connex Link; and KMC’s is called the Missing Link (photo).
To ensure compatibility, it’s best to read the manufacturer’s recommendations for the model of chain you have and also the quick link maker’s. Otherwise, you might end up with pedaling or shifting glitches like that stiff link from pushing a pin in wrong with the chain tool I mentioned.
Shimano, SRAM and KMC quick links are designed for single use. Once installed, if you open the link to remove and clean the chain, for example, you should install a brand new quick link. That’s because the act of locking these quick links removes material weakening them. The locking mechanism is essentially a press fit between mating parts.
Wipperman’s Connex Link is unique in that it’s designed to be used repeatedly. Instead of a press fit, the Connex has a cam lock that holds the link closed simply from pedaling pressure. It cannot come free on its own. It’s a great choice if you like to remove chains for cleaning: https://www.cantitoeroad.com/b-Connex-Link-b-_c_48.html.
Link Installation
For installing all types of quick links, it’s just a matter of lining up the two halves and assembling them. But be sure to read and follow the quick link instructions. Some are directional and only work properly when installed the right way.
Tip: To make quick link installation easy, lift the chain off the chainring and rest it on the frame. If you don’t do this, the chain will be under tension from the rear derailleur and the ends will tend to pull away from you making it difficult to line up the quick link’s two sides.
For all quick links, after you’ve assembled them on the chain loosely, they must be locked. Locking means getting the quick link’s two pins to snap into their fully closed position, which ensures it cannot open.
Wipperman’s Connex link locks as soon as the chain tension pulls on it. Its pins slide into place without any extra force. To lock other types, you can push forcefully forward on the pedal. You’ll feel the pins find home and might hear it, too. But, check visually to be sure the pins are seated correctly all the way into their pockets.
Quick Link Tools
You don’t need fancy tools to install and open quick links. Wipperman’s can be installed and opened by hand. And, with pliers you probably already have in your toolkit, it’s not that difficult to open press-fit locking quick links. In the photo, notice how I have the jaws positioned so that by squeezing the pliers the link pins will move toward each other opening the link. You can then remove the link by hand.
Yet, while pliers work in a pinch (pun intended), it does take a little skill to use them. And it is possible to pinch yourself if the link is stuck and the pliers slip. Likewise, pushing forcefully on the pedal to lock a link can result in miscues, too, particularly if you didn’t quite assemble the link correctly.
Which is where proper quick link tools come in. They are all types of pliers. Most have thin jaws to fit in between the link sideplates and press on the chain rollers. Using these tools places the force exactly where it’s needed and because you’re looking at the link using the tools, you’re more likely to notice if a link is assembled wrong when you go to lock it.
KMC makes removal and installation pliers – two separate tools that both work by squeezing the handles. One compresses to open/remove links: https://amzn.to/36a1kHB. The other spreads the links to close/lock them: https://amzn.to/2rDM2f3. While these tools work well, it does mean having to have two tools.
Park Tool’s MLP 1.2 Chain Plier https://amzn.to/2ZxQEQB both opens and locks quick links. To open, the tool’s handles are squeezed. To lock links, the handles are spread.
I happened upon an unusual quick link tool design from Shimano. On theirs, there is a third jaw, which allows squeezing the handles to both open and lock links.
See the photos below. Note: this is an expensive chain tool: https://amzn.to/2F6sPpC.
I’m sharing the pics because it wasn’t obvious to me at first how the third jaw was placed to lock the link. It’s too far away to fit inside the quick link. So you simply place it on another link. Clever.
There are many more quick link tools available on Amazon. The ones I’ve tried have not performed as well as the brand name models I’m pointing out here. If you’ve found one you’ve used and recommend, please comment. Thanks!
Ride total: 9,508
I remove and replace my SRAM quick links for cleaning every three weeks or so, and have been doing so for years. The SRAM instructions are vague, suggesting you need a new quick link with a new chain, which is no issue because new chains come with a new link. I cannot see why reusing should degrade them, and to pay for a replacement every time I wax my chain seems extravagant, and my experience suggests is un-necessary. I have never seen a specific explanation as to why re-use is discouraged.
Hi Don,
Here’s an article I wrote about SRAM and why they don’t want riders to reuse quick links:
https://www.roadbikerider.com/q-a-can-a-sram-powerlock-chain-link-be-reused/
The issue, which I described in this current Tech Talk, is that each time you connect, separate and reconnect a quick link you remove a small amount of material from the link. This weakens the link and can cause it to break. They will and do break. It might never happen to you, but it can,
Thanks for the question,
jim
Thanks for your reply: helpful, as were other comments. I must say I haven’t felt entirely confident in my understanding of the situation – because it didn’t make sense to me, and still doesn’t, really. Removing and replacing removes enough metal to make a difference? Is that observable somehow? Is there some number of reuses at which the link becomes prone to falling apart? Does lubrication make any difference? My 11 speed chains last about 6,000 kms before they are -05% worn. I recently moved to waxing, which needs redoing every 200 kms, which will be 30 times per chain, so the economics of not reusing links are not good. Assuming SRAM chains, does it make any difference which ‘reusable’ link I use? Comparative prices from Bike24 are Wipperman Connex E14.51, KMC E4.61 compared with SRAM E2.76. Does anything about the performance of a Wipperman link justify the extra cost? What is connecting link performance? Noise?
I do plan to continue with SRAM chains on my SRAM drivetrains. I tried a beautiful red KMC chain some time ago, and it was very noisy, so put it back in its fancy box.
If I recall correctly, SRAM links were reuseable through 9-speed, and SRAM revised their policy with 10-speed. Similarly, I have 10-speed KMC Missing Links that clearly state “Reuseable” on the package, but my 11-speed Missing Links are Non-reuseable. Maybe as chains have got narrower, and the plates have got thinner, there is less tolerance for wear.
Hi Don,
For my Tech Talk about reusing quick links, which ran many issues back, https://www.roadbikerider.com/q-a-can-a-sram-powerlock-chain-link-be-reused/ I spoke with a Park Tool tech guy I’ve known forever and trust thoroughly. Understand that Park works races and events around the world and sees all types of bikes in all types of conditions. And they told me that they would never recommend using a quick link again unless it was specifically made for it. Because they see plenty of broken quick links and when they break it often causes a bad crash.
I have reused quick links on my own bikes even when they weren’t made for it. And, I’ve never broken a quick link. But, when Park tells me it’s dangerous and explains how the links are weakened during installation and removal, I listen. It makes complete sense to me that thinner metal is weaker than thicker. I have broken chain links before that were too worn.
What I use is Wipperman Connex links. They’re a mechanical fit, not a press/snap fit. Not tools are needed to install or remove them, which is what I like about them most (be sure to orient them correctly following the instructions – it’s not that obvious how it’s done). Mine have always run smooth and quiet. That’s what I’d try if I were you even though they do cost more. Hope this helps and thanks for the great comments.
Jim
Don, I have kmc links that say the are reusable, but I have always reused them anyway. So much so that my links were worn down so much they made my new chain read 75% wear if I ran the gauge across the link. 😳 So I would advise you to watch for that. I am going to buy a Connex chain for the reusable link that comes with it as well.
I replace my chain when its o.5% worn, but I wouldn’t worry about more wear on just the quick link. To me, the issue is safety, ie will the link give way. And it doesn’t make sense to me that removing a quick link should degrade so it’s unsafe.
Wolf Tooth makes a quick link tool small enough and light enough to carry with you. It even has places to hold two spare links and comes in different colors.
Thanks for the reminder, Steve! I actually wrote about that tool in a previous Tech Talk on repairing broken chains on the road. The tool is shown: https://www.roadbikerider.com/fix-broken-chain/ Nice tool. Thanks again, Steve.
Jim
I have one and it’s a great design. I like that it has a magnet to keep the spare links from falling out when being used.
FYI Some KMC links ARE re-usable see here… https://www.kmcchain.eu/connector-road_cross
Excellent! Thanks for sharing that link to their chart, Charlie. Very helpful! Appreciate it, What’s interesting is that some are re-usable and some are not. It makes you wonder why they’re not all re-usable to avoid any confusion. But, it’s great that some are made to be re-used.
Thanks!
Jim
I’ve also reused Shimano quick links with no problems…. I think the “no reuse” is to avoid legal liability more than anything else.
Well, I’m sure liability concerns are part of it, John, but according to both SRAM and Park Tool spokespeople I asked about it, the reason not to re-use quick links is because they can and do break. They don’t want riders to risk crashing from broken chains. I believe they are genuinely trying to help keep us safe.
Thanks,
Jim
When removing or installing a quick/master link, I have found a way to work on the chain which, for me, is easier than just removing the chain from the chainring. I made a simple tool by taking a 6 inch piece of an old round spoke and bending about 1/2 inch of each end slightly more than 90 degrees to form hooks on each end. I then pull the chain to get some slack and hook each end of the tool into the chain on each side of the link to be worked on. This leaves the master link or the two free ends of the chain loose (without tension) and easy to work on.
Thanks, Walt – great use of an old spoke! Nice tip, thank you. Some all-in-one tools include chain holder like this, too.. One advantage is not having to put the chain back onto the ring.
Appreciate the tip!
Jim
A simple, large paper clip can be unfolded and used in the same way to provide slack and allow the ends of the chain to be free of tension while working to reconnect them with a pin or a Quick link.
There is another quick link called a SuperLink that has a built in wear indicator that shows when it’s time to replace the link. The side plates of this link are slightly elongated so that the chain has to have a 90 degree bend at each end of the link to gain clearance to remove the link; it’s not going to come loose on the bike. I’ve used these for years with no problems at all.
I remember the Craig Superlink, Fritz – that might be the first “quick link.” Here’s a link to a description: http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_slink.htm
But, as far as I can tell, the only way to buy these is to buy old ones on eBay.com. I can’t find any currently available Superlink so I can’t determine if they are compatible with 10-, 11- and/or 12-sp drivetrains.
I do remember it was a nice link back in the 80s. Thanks for the reminder. If you know how to buy them and whether they are compatible with today’s drivetrains, please let us know. Thank you!
Jim
You can get new SuperLinks at Lickton’s. Click on this link: https://www.lickbike.com/productpage.php?PART_NUM_SUB=0338-10 They aren’t available in 11 or 12 speed yet. I have used Sram, KMC and Wipperman links, and have found that the Superlink is, in my opinion, the best of the batch.
Thanks a lot for providing the link and additional information, Fritz. Much appreciated!
Jim
Walt, your home made tool is very similar to a Park tool I have that holds the two ends of a chain to enable them to be connected. It looks like a single loop spring in a V shape with the ends curved as hooks.
I also leave the chain on the sprockets. I made a chain slack tool out of a 3 or 4 inch length of coat hanger with two bends at 90* and one bend in the centre at about 45*.
I do like the idea about using old spokes for this tool!
For the link pliers I used an old pair of snap ring pliers that are both external/internal. They will remove/install the links.
Cheers
Great tips, Bryan. Thanks for sharing!
Jim
Not original with me, a brilliantly simple way to remove a quick link is with a cable or even a shoelace. Thread it through the side plates so that it goes around the pins at either end of the link, cross the ends on the opposite side of the chain and pull parallel to the chain.
That’s a cool, tip, Richard. Thanks for sharing!
What is your reason for not mentioning Campagnolo chains?
Hi Roy,
It’s because Campagnolo has not provided quick links with their chains yet. However, this morning I learned that Wipperman is now offering a Campagnolo-compatible 12-speed chain that has a Wipperman Connex link. So, that’s a way to add a quick-link to Campy’s 12-speed chain. I heard that this new chain and link won’t be available until spring. Wipperman already has 11-sp Campy-compatible chains and Connex quick links. Here’s a link to those: https://www.cantitoeroad.com/Connex-11s0-Chain-_p_525.html Ideally,
Hope this helps,
Jim
I have been using KMC quick links with Campy Chorus 11s chains for the past 45,000 miles with zero issues.
Thanks Jim, I’ll watch for that Connex link. I’m reading that SRAM makes one that works well on the Campy 12 chain/dirvetrain.
That’s good to know, Roy. Thanks for sharing that tip!
Jim
KMC Missing Link on a 10 speed chain on our tandem has failed on tour, on the road, so now I use a new link every time the chain is serviced.
Hi
I have a FSA team issue chain and I would like to know which « quick link » could I use to repair my chain during a ride (FSA seems to not offer similar link as Shimano or SRM)?
I would think that Shimano, KMC or similar would work.
Hi,
Will a 12 speed quick connect link also fit to 11 speed?
Because it’s thinner and will fit to 11 speed..
If I understand you correctly, when one removes a master link, one cannot just “relink the rivets.” After the master link is removed, the chain has two female ends and one must first remove one link to get a male end before relinking., And the chain will then be 1/2″ shorter…which is not an issue in most cases….