Jim’s Tech Talk
By Jim Langley
This week I’m sharing a small adjustment that makes a world of difference in the shifting of Shimano Di2 electric rear derailleurs. Recently I ran into and fixed this issue for a couple of roadie friends. Which makes me think that not everyone understands this critical adjustment.
My theory is that the confusion comes from the natural assumption that rear derailleurs are all adjusted the same. And also from the instructions provided with the Di2 components, which I sometimes find awkwardly written, incomplete and confusing.
Plus, for every new version/model year of Di2 and different Shimano groups that use the electronic technology, there are changes in the components and the instructions. That creates confusion and misunderstanding.
To help, I’m going to explain the basic problem, the cause, and the solution.
The Basic Problem
If your Di2 rear derailleur has been adjusted incorrectly, you’ll be experiencing inconsistent shifting. Sometimes the chain will make the shift you want. Sometimes it won’t. And, sometimes your bike will “ghost” shift, meaning shift when you didn’t actually shift it – and didn’t want it to.
The Cause
From my experience fixing this problem, I believe it occurs mainly because whoever did the initial install of the rear derailleur adjusted it the way standard (not Di2 electric) derailleurs are adjusted. I can appreciate how this could happen, because visually, it does seem like the electric derailleur is designed to be setup exactly like manual rear derailleurs.
However, when it comes to setting the limit screws, there’s a small yet critical difference. On both electric and manual rear derailleurs there are limit screws that set the sweep or in/out travel of the derailleur. They are adjusted to ensure that the derailleur can move the chain far enough each way to reach all the cassette cogs, smallest to largest.
With manual derailleurs, these limit screws are adjusted so that they hit stops on the derailleur. When they hit the stops, it prevents the derailleur moving any further. It’s an important adjustment to get right. Even only a half turn off with the limit screw can mean the difference between the chain staying on the cog or coming off. And, if it overshifts and comes off it can cause a crash or, in the case of shifting into the spokes, serious wheel and frame damage.
The Solution
It turns out that Di2 derailleur limit screw adjustment is NOT always done the same way as it is on mechanical rear derailleurs. And, also that if you do adjust the screws as if you’re working on a standard derailleur, you might actually damage or ruin your Di2 rear derailleur.
The reason is that Di2 components are operated by electrical shifters, a brain and motors. And one of their most interesting and sophisticated functions is the ability to self trim to fine-tune shifts.
On a properly setup Di2 rear derailleur you can see this in action if you watch closely. It’s easiest to see when you are shifting from the second-smallest cog to the smallest. Continue watching for a bit after the shift is complete and you’ll see the derailleur move inward closer to the second-smallest cog a tiny amount (assuming the limit screw is adjusted correctly – otherwise you won’t see it). If it’s quiet where you’re doing this test, you might hear the auto trim, too.
Don’t Block the Auto-trim Di2 Feature
The reason my friends’ Di2 rear derailleurs were shifting strangely and ghost shifting, was because the limit screws were turned in too far. This results in them preventing the derailleur from overshifting slightly and then auto-trimming. Worse it can drain the battery because the derailleur continues trying to move further than it can.
To fix this is as easy as backing out the limit screw(s) until there’s clearance between it and the stop. Once you have a small gap, the Di2 derailleur will work correctly again and your electronic shifting perfection will return.
Before you work on yours, though, you should search for its manual online and read it. Because not all Di2 rear derailleurs are the same. On some, only the high gear limit screw is adjusted this way. On others both the low and high limit screws are.
Finding the Correct Instructions
One way to find the right manual is to use Shimano’s new Di2 for Dummies site, here: https://bettershifting.com/di2-for-dummies-beginners-guide-to-di2-manual/. On this resource there are links to Shimano manuals for some of their recent Di2 groups. If your Di2 is not listed, you should search on “Shimano Di2 Manual” adding the model number of your derailleur, which will bring up the results for your exact derailleur.
The screenshots below show the directions for a high and low gear limit screw adjustment to give you an idea what directions you need to find for your rear derailleur.
PLEASE NOTE, that you need to find and follow the correct instructions for your specific Di2 rear derailleur. The screenshots shown are just an example of what to look for, and also the warnings of what can go wrong if the adjustment is not done right.
Ride total: 9,438
Thanks for the link to Di2Center! If you spot any mistakes or room for improvement please let me know 😉
Oh yeah.. we’re not Shimano 😉
Thanks for reading the article and letting us know, Terry. Great service you’re providing. Thank you!
Jim
Not sure if I’m experiencing the same issue, I’m using the 1st gen 10 speed dura ace di2, whenever I change gear on my rear D, the gear just go back to the previous gear. My mech told me the di2 failed time to change the whole groupset. What are your thoughts?
It depends – does this happen in every gear, or only the first or last?
If it’s the former, does that mean you are stuck in one gear?
If this only happens in the first or last gears your limit bolts are probably too tight..
Either way, a Di2 system should not “go off” just by itself, other than the hardware failing or being bumped/hit (derailleur hanger, for example).
If your hardware is failing, they are correct that Dura Ace 7970 is not compatible with anything else… unfortunately. If you had 9070 you could’ve gotten away with just upgrading both derailleurs.
Its happening on every gear, unless I shift it a couple of times then sometimes it doesn’t shift back. I guess i have got no choice but to change the whole groupset. Just curious whats the lifespan of a whole Di2 groupset component ? Just cannot find it anywhere online about lifespan.
I generally trust bike shops – they are usually run by bike enthusiasts and like riding as much as you and I do :). If they say it’s gone and doing micro-adjust on the derailleur does not improve things (https://di2center.com/2019/04/25/how-to-micro-adjust-your-road-bike-di2-rear-derailleur/) then they may be right.
I’m not sure about the lifespan of Di2 components. The battery is said to last 300-500 full charge cycles, which is more than anyone should ever need. Still, components (and batteries) do fail, but I don’t have any statistics on that :}
I currently have seven bikes and only one, a Giant Trinity Time Trial bike, has the electronic shifting. In some 700+ races, and a lifetime total of 330,000 miles, I’ve never had the standard cable shifting fail. Maybe noisy for a bit but a quick adjustment and I’m back at it. I’ve had the Di2 fail several times in races. Once, it completely stopped shifting leaving me in a 54/17 for 12 miles of a 40k time trial because the software needed to be updated. I’ve had the battery die (even though it was charged within 30 days) and I’ve had a cable to the rear derailleur disconnect. Overall, I like it on my aero bars as the shifting is quick and convenient but I would never have it on my road bikes. Electronic shifting seems to have solved a problem that didn’t exist. The beauty of a bike is the simplicity in my opinion. I’ll stick with cables.
Thanks for sharing your Di2 review, Peter. Very helpful and interesting.
And, regarding “330,000 lifetime miles and 700 races” all I can think to say is WOW, just wow!! Congratulations!
Thanks again,
Jim
Just shows how old I am 😉
I’m wondering if the same advice holds for SRAM eTap. I just had it installed to help reduce thumb pain from arthritis that is aggravated by shifting, especially mechanical shifting on the right hand.
Thanks for the question, Jim. I have not worked on enough SRAM eTap systems to know if it’s the same for all of them, but the instruction on SRAM’s website explain that the limit screws should be set to hit the low and high gear stops. So that suggests that for the current eTap you don’t not have to worry about having a gap for the motor to self-trim. This link should open the instructions if you would like to see them: https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-7918-013-000_rev_b_etap_axs_systems_manual.pdf
Hope this helps and that you love your new eTap and it helps with your thumb pain.
Jim
Thanks so much. I too have Sram and wondered about the adjustment. While i don’t have to adjust now it’s great to have for the future.
Not sure if I’m experiencing the same issue, I’m using the 1st gen 10 speed dura ace di2, whenever I change gear on my rear D, the gear just go back to the previous gear. My mech told me the di2 failed time to change the whole groupset. What are your thoughts?
I have di2 from 2012. I’m looking to find out why my rear derailleur shifts intermittently. But the front shifts fine. What can I try to fix it?
Hi Mark – have you figured it out yet? I somehow missed your reply here, but if anyone needs some Di2 help just post here or send me a message ;-).
I originally came here to say that di2center.com has moved to https://bettershifting.com
The page linked in this article now redirects to the new page (https://bettershifting.com/di2-for-dummies-beginners-guide-to-di2-manual/) and will do so for the next couple of years, but I just thought I’d mention this 😉
Hi bud,
I have a 1st gen Di2 Ultegra rear mech (10 spd)
Its been flawless, really absolutely the bomb over the years, micro-adjusts perfectly, auto-trims sweet and shifts same however it’s taken a while but I now have an issue – the electrical connection going into to the rear mech is sketchy. No connection possible sometimes, it’s all or nothing but when i press it in hard or wiggle it, it’s back again !
Physically botyhs ends look normal, nothing outward appears corroded or tired or shot. All looks good but I realise that this is going to happen at some point now. I’m happy with the whole system don’t want to upgrade of mix/match components and I’ve just seen the cost of a new derailleur, not keen on that so all I want to know is can I service this crucial connection?
Many thanks for taking the time to read/reply and keep up the good work !
holding breath now _
Hey Mike,
unfortunately, the only derailleur that is compatible with 10-speed Di2 (6770) is another 6770 derailleur.
IF the derailleur breaks, you’d have to either replace that with another 6770 derailleur, or replace both derailleurs with 11-speed derailleurs – either 6870 or R8050 (or their dura-ace equivalent, but $$$$$$$$)
When it comes to your current RD-6770 though, have you figured out whether the issue is with the wire, or the derailleur itself?
Normally these wires really click/snap into place (and they require a decent amount of force to push in), and they shouldn’t come loose easily. I tend to tell people: if you can disconnect the wire by touching it with your fingers, it isn’t fully plugged in.
Of course, if the derailleur wire has been unplugged / plugged back in A LOT then the plug (on the wire) can wear.. and it might not fit as snugly as it used to. My first suggestion would be to try a new wire, to see if that makes a difference.
Since your bike is 6770, it probably has an external battery and the wire runs along the frame. Probably from the rear derailleur to the junction B located underneath the bottom bracket.
(just guessing here).
You would have to replace the EW-SD50 wire with one of the same length. Keep in mind that there are currently two Di2 wiring standards.. EW-SD300 (12-speeds and EP8 e-bike), and EW-SD50.
EW-SD50 is the right one for you :).
Hi, i have a ultegra di2 6870 i think, 2017 model,with about 25000 km and in great condition.My annoying problem is that sometimes my rear derailleur stops working, i have to play up and down the shifter, i dont know if it helps, and after some seconds start working again. What can i do? Change one by one components? Starting with rear derailleur? It is expensive also. Maybe the junction box? I took my bike at bike shop and we check connections and we have made an update but still the problems exist.
Hey Christos,
personally I think the shifter is at fault here.
You can easily confirm / rule that out by programming the other shifter to also shift the rear derailleur. If the RD shifts fine when you use the other shifter, replace the shifter.
You can do this using e-tube project for windows (3.4.5 or 4.0.4) and the charger 🙂
Thank you very much for the answer. I will give it a try.