The advantage of being retired is you avoid the weekend crowds when traveling and riding. A couple of weeks ago, I drove to Kalamazoo, Michigan, to check the Kal-Haven rails to trails off my ride list. This pristine trail stretches from the shores of Lake Michigan in South Haven, nearly 34 miles to the east, ending in Kalamazoo.
The trail opened in 1991 and was built on an abandoned railroad bed from 1871 for the Kalamazoo & South Haven Railroad. It was almost immediately purchased by the Michigan Central Railroad, and then the New York Central Railroad took it over in 1950, running their trains until 1968 when a merger created the Penn Central Line. In 1970, the line was closed.
A crushed limestone trail meanders past dense woods, vineyards, blueberry fields, farmlands, and the Black River. Several towns dot the route where you can purchase refreshments. On a late September Wednesday, I jumped on my bike and went for a ride.
The Route
The start of my ride was delayed a couple of hours due to dense fog. Even pulling into the Kalamazoo trailhead at 9 am, numerous cars were already in the lot. It’s a very popular starting point for walkers and riders. The trailhead has bathrooms and water, and you can’t help but notice the big red caboose. It serves as a trail office and information center but was not open the day I was there.
Kalamazoo is at the trail’s high point, and I enjoyed a gentle descent into South Haven. There was a double whammy that day — a rare easterly wind — so uphill and into the wind for 34 miles. Yeah, hindsight is 20/20. I probably should have reconsidered my starting point, but lunch in South Haven was the perfect refueling stop.
I took it easy on the downhill because even though the trail was in excellent condition, a few deep sandy spots grabbed my wheel. Every few miles along the trail, there was an outhouse, often with a picnic table and air pump nearby. I used an outhouse at two locations, and they were immaculate and well-stocked with toilet paper. There aren’t many water stops, so I was glad I had my hydration pack and two bottles on the bike.
Just west of Golbes, a huge tree had fallen across the trail. I could hike a bike around it and remembered reading in the trail reviews this happened to someone earlier in the summer. They reported it to a worker, and it was cleared by their return trip. About 45 minutes down the trail, I came across a worker driving the trail. I stopped to chat and told him about the tree. He seemed very excited because he had his chainsaw with him. Yep, men and their chainsaws.
My first stop was the halfway point along the trail and the Bloomingdale Depot. There was a crew working on the depot, which houses a museum of railroad and local history. I was out of luck as the museum is only open on weekends, Memorial Day through Labor Day. Opposite the depot was a caboose, an oil rig, and historical information about how, in the 1930s, oil was discovered in Bloomingdale.
After a snack, pictures, and chatting with locals, I continued my ride. I encountered a rider going my pace, and we talked for a mile or two. Eventually, the trail started to follow the Black River. The mouth of the river ends at Lake Michigan in South Haven, my ultimate destination.
The trailhead for the Kal-Haven trail is on the outskirts of South Haven. I stopped to get my orientation and figure out a route into town. I pulled up Google Maps and thought I had to head east because, being from Chicago, Lake Michigan is always east. Yeah, I giggled to myself for being disoriented. Then I noticed signage just west of the trailhead going into town. I followed a wide sidewalk path to the downtown area, with tourist shops, restaurants, bars, and many sculptures.
My ultimate goal was to go out on the South Haven South Pier, photograph the lighthouse established in 1872, and take in the lake’s beauty. After a few pics, I searched for a restaurant with outdoor seating to keep an eye on my bike. After lunch and replenishing my hydration pack, I was ready for 34 miles back to Kalamazoo — uphill and into the wind.
Oh, and that tree that was down near Golbes. There was no sign it was ever there. Unbelievable how well this trail is maintained. I never even saw one piece of garbage — purely Michigan.
Conclusion
It was a bit early in the season to catch the fall foliage, but I’m sure the views would have been breathtaking. Having the Kal-Haven trail almost entirely to myself on a weekday was a real treat. The few hikers and cyclists I encountered during my 72-mile journey were very friendly. I highly recommend the Kal-Haven trail if you’re looking for a memorable ride in the Midwest. Consider taking a few days to explore and enjoy the surrounding area. For winter enthusiasts, the trail offers cross-country skiing and snowmobiling.
My Gear Inventory
Trek Domane endurance bike
Trek Aeolus Elite 35V wheels and Girona RSL GR 700×38 gravel tires (tubeless with sealant)
Topeak Tubular handlebar bag to carry snacks and windbreaker
Trek RSL MTB shoes with SPD 2-bolt cleats for walking around South Haven
Jelenew Quick Release Zipper Bib Shorts eliminated the need to remove my hydration pack or jersey. Plus, the chamois provided all-day comfort.
Resources
Friends of the Kal-Haven Trail
Sheri Rosenbaum regularly contributes articles and reviews products for RBR. She’s an avid recreational roadie who lives in the Chicago area and a major advocate for women’s cycling, serving on the board of directors and volunteering with the Dare2tri Paratriathlon Club. Click to read Sheri’s full bio or visit her web site sunflowersandpedals.com.
This trail looks very nice and interesting. Thanks for sharing your experience with us Sheri!
Karl, please let us know if you go.
I’m from Kalamazoo and have been using the Kal-Haven Trail since it opened. We first hiked it to South Haven then my son and I have biked it to Van Buren State Park and camped, with a return the next day. If you time it right there are ripe berries along the woodside edges.
Hey hey hey wisecracks about guys who maintain trails, volunteer or pro, and our power tools? You ever tried using a bow saw to cut up a still-living green tree that fell on a trail? (muscle powered?) It’s an insane lot of work. If you’re used to doing it that way, a chainsaw gives you a big Paul Bunyan rush.
Still, wear boots, gloves, and safety glasses. I use cycling glasses for that.
I’ve been on the full length of that trai, I can’t recall the miles one way to Kalamazoo from Van Buren state park but it was roughly only 40 miles one way, so I rode it back to the state park making it roughly an 80 mile ride. The Kal-Haven trail ends but it ends where River Valley trail picks up, I didn’t take that trail, I had to head back to the campground. I was able to fill my bottles up twice at a little Bar and Grill place in Alamo, I could see the place from the trail, so got off the trail went about a block to the place, and they were happy to fill my bottles, I guess they do it quite a bit for cyclists from what they said. There was a couple of other places too in Gobles and Bloomingdale that several riders on the trail said they got water from. There were plenty of places to get water just had to get off the trail and go about a block.
It’s a nice ride lots of shade along the route. The only thing is, they used crushed limestone, which is hard as pavement, but, the dust comes off that limestone and collects on your bike. By the time I got back to camp my bike was a fright. But that dust gets on everything including the chain and gears, so I had to wash off the entire bike, the park had a hose so I used it, but I didn’t have any lube with me to relube the chain, so didn’t ride my bike the remaining 2 days I was there.