You should choose road-cycling shorts based on the quality of materials and construction. But also crucial is how well they conform to your unique anatomy. Sometimes a relatively inexpensive pair may work better for you than a high-dollar model.
Shorts, like saddles, are tough to recommend because of differences in butts, crotches, seats and riding positions. Every rider has to try on shorts, buy the model/size that fits snugly but comfortably, then hope for the best on the bike. It’s hit or miss, and some luck is involved. Just as with saddles, there is no universal answer.
That said, here are guidelines that’ll point you toward better choices.
- Price. Generally, the more expensive the shorts, the higher the quality. Avoid cheap shorts because the material and construction may be substandard. They may be sewn from only 4 or 6 pieces (“panels”), which won’t give you the best anatomical fit. The padded liner (“chamois”) may not be large enough, soft enough or sewn without irritating seams. Cheap shorts aren’t as durable, either, so in the long run they really aren’t a bargain. When touring and washing shorts by hand, wringing can break threads and blow out seams if the manufacturer cut corners on quality.
- Panels. The more the better. Usually, 8-panel shorts conform to your body better than those made from fewer pieces. Better manufacturers use flat-seam stitching so additional panels won’t result in abrasion or other discomforts.
- Liner. Crotch liners are synthetic nowadays (not real chamois leather). That’s a good thing because the material can’t dry, crack and cause more irritation than it prevents. A large, smooth, absorbent, one-piece, moderately padded liner has the best chance of feeling comfortable. Liners that have seams, grooves, distinct sections and/or a waffle-like texture may work fine for you — or maybe not. There’s no way of knowing for sure before riding. Beware of thick padding, which can bunch and chafe. Also problematic are gel inserts. Because they’re in plastic compartments, moisture transfer can be blocked, causing excessive dampness and skin irritation.
- Leg length. This goes up and down like hem lengths in the fashion world. Long, so-called “Belgian” shorts will be in style for a while, putting the legs just above the knee. Then the pendulum swings the other way. Short shorts, like those marketed for spinning classes, are favored by riders who want to avoid tan lines that show when wearing casual shorts. But they shouldn’t be so short that the nose of the saddle rubs on bare skin.
- Waist length. Proper cycling shorts are cut high in back to keep skin covered in the bent-over riding position. Likewise, they are low in front so you can bend forward without restriction. The front shouldn’t be so low, though, that it’s below your hip bones with nothing to help hold it up.
- Waist band. The elastic should be wide enough that it doesn’t feel like a cord around your middle. Some manufacturers add a drawstring. Just elastic is fine. Just a drawstring is not. If that’s the only thing keeping shorts in place, you’ll feel restricted in certain positions or when breathing deeply.
- Leg grippers. Nothing is more frustrating than shorts that ride up and let material bunch in the crotch. Check the leg grippers to be sure they’re wide, made of “sticky” rubber-like material and securely sewn in. Newer silicone grippers also work well. The legs should feel comfortably snug, not tight.
- Stretch. Most shorts are made of a stretchy fabric generically called spandex. They’re easy to pull on and don’t feel like you’re wearing a 19th century corset. On the other hand, you may come across shorts with fabric that purposely resists stretching. The idea is to provide help to your pedal stroke. The fabric “stores” kinetic energy on the rear part of the stroke and releases it when you push down. This concept is also used in competition suits for weight lifters. I’m not aware of any studies that prove a benefit for cyclists.
- Bibs. Shorts with built-in shoulder straps can’t sag. They keep the chamois snug against the crotch to limit movement and irritation. For men, this prevents the chance of things moving out of place when pedaling out of the saddle. However, the high front sometimes makes it difficult for guys to urinate. Women usually prefer shorts without bibs so they don’t have to remove their jersey to take what cycling commentator Phil Liggett calls a “natural break.” Bib shorts are more expensive than standard shorts.
- Size. It’s best to try on shorts before buying them, if possible. Sizing varies widely among manufacturers. Some U.S. manufacturers have noticed the “plumping of America” and cut their clothing bigger. It’s risky to buy shorts online unless you’re replacing a model and size you’ve worn before.
- Overall fit. In general, snugger is better. You don’t want any uncomfortable restriction, but you do want the shorts to stay exactly in place. Remember that properly designed cycling shorts will look a bit baggy in the butt when you’re standing in front of the dressing room mirror. Then crouch forward into the riding position and watch them mold to your body.
Helpful. I have had mixed results buying on line and I have found the local store selections to be limited especially towards the end of riding weather. It helps to know some of the points made in this article. Thanks.
Good information
Like saddles, several bib shorts often have to be tried before finding one that makes your fanny happy. Unlike saddles, bike shops seldom offer a test ride prior to purchasing. After trying several brands I finally settled on ASSOS years ago. I purchase them directly from their website and they really stand by their product. I wear the T.MILLE S7 bibshort for road and mountain biking. A couple years ago I struck a small limb protruding into the trail and it snagged a fairly small hole in a leg of my short. I contacted ASSOS for suggested home repair instructions and they sent me a new pair. They are extremely durable, quite comfortable on long rides and my body just loves the fit.
The sticky material that is designed to keep shorts from riding up has the unfortunate effect of irritating some riders to the point that they either turn the short up at this point, or cut this portion off the shorts in order to wear them. Some of my riding friends specifically seek shorts without this feature on the legs.
I have that problem as well. It’s a nice idea, but it’s annoying and makes the shorts uncomfortable. Hopefully they find a way to improve it.
I like bibs & as a smaller rider have found Castelli’s to be my best fit. Western Bike works runs a lot of specials on the “free aero” which I’ve found durable & comfortable. A note on Assos, I’ve had the “T equipe” & 2 pairs wore holes thru the fabric on the seat (road riding, firm saddle) & I had the opposite experience when I contacted them. (I rotate my bibs & they had no more hours than other bibs, none of which did this). They said, sorry out of warranty (just over a year ?) & said here’s a link to BUY a new pair….. No thanks. I think it’s sometimes the “luck of the draw” of what rep gets your email & how generous they’re feeling that day. I’ve had reps at other major brands send me new high $$$ components etc. for free when I’ve had a problem & I was up front with them. So it goes….
“A note on Assos, I’ve had the “T equipe” & 2 pairs wore holes thru the fabric on the seat”
I own, or have owned more than 12 pair of Assos bibshorts/shorts, with absolutely no holes like you experienced. In fact two of them are still in rotation after 14 years!
A few years ago in RBR, it was suggested to not wear the same brand on consecutive days. They all likely have a spot that will irritate. By wearing a different brand the next day, that spot can heal before you are aware there is even such a spot.
I just ordered 2 pair of sizing samples for their pro short from Voler, a company out of California. The rep was helpful with sizing prior to purchase and suggested I order 2 different sizes, as I could return the pair that didn’t fit within 90 days. I did that and was glad I upsized as the rep suggested. They fit great and the price was unbeatable. I promptly ordered 2 more pair. Give their website a look: https://www.voler.com/
Not sure that the advice of more panels = better fit necessarily still applies with modern stretch fabrics. My preferred Pearl Izumi bibs from their higher end lines only have two panels around the thighs, although more in a complex pattern around the hips, have been consistently comfortable for very long days. In an extreme case: 140 miles, followed by 70 miles the next – different pair, both PI.
Agreement on avoiding gel pads. Several pairs, years ago (pre-PI bibs), starting leaking gel in the middle of 3-week overseas tour! Thank goodness it was in Italy, where there were bike shops where I could get replacements!
I have found that some manufacturers use the same size “chamois” for extra small shorts as for 3XL. I am a 2XL for shorts and have had to be choosey with the brand to get the right fit. Currently import Voler top style from USA to NZ to meet my sizing.
I agree that find what fits and stick with it. When I started back into cycling about 25 yrs ago padded shorts were new to me, and every pair that I bought were different (from true chamois road shorts to mtb baggies that were so padded it felt like wearing a diaper). I found a PI short model, had 4 pairs and wore those for years; when I needed replacements found they were discontinued, didn’t like replacement. I tried an LG shorts model and now have 4 pairs and also tried the bib version; these 5 are now my standard rotation. Looking to go bib from now on.
The most important advice I ever got about choosing shorts was from Assos who know a thing or two about the subject.
You should not be able to stand up straight without feeling a significant amount of tension down your back. For shorts where a lot of time will be spent on the drops you should not even feel comfortable in that position.
Given how expensive cycle shorts are and how wide the variation of body sizes they are meant to fit I find it astonishing that they do not have the option to adjust the strap length like you can on a cheap pair of dungarees,