Jim’s Tech Talk
By Jim Langley
Before we get to today’s topic, let’s backpedal to last week when the subject was how many hand and body positions there are on dropped handlebars. I counted 9 and asked you for more.
Props to regular contributors, “Fixieguy” and “JeffvdD” for identifying a few more. Fixieguy pointed out that when you hold onto the tops with your thumbs over the handlebars (not under them) it’s actually another grip since the heels of your hands instead of the palms can rest on the bars. This affects the reach, too.
That made me realize on rides last week that I often just put my fingers on the tops and have my thumbs behind the bars – a very relaxed grip but with the thumbs and palms close enough if I need to grip the bars in a hurry.
Then JeffvdD made the excellent point that there’s a relatively new position that places your forearms on the bars and is likely even more aero than any of the on-the-drops positions. He provided this link to a great photo: https://capovelo.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/forearms-on-bars.jpg.
Thanks a lot, guys!
Dick’s Slow Release Pedal
This week’s technical question comes from reader, Dick Rogers. He asked,
“I sometimes have trouble getting out of my Shimano SPD double-sided right pedal. The tension is already set as far as it goes to the (-). This is the pedal I get out of last when I want to get off the bike.
The reason I’m having trouble is because of a spinal cord injury that left my right foot considerably weaker than the left which releases easily when stopping on the road. I’ve had these pedals for at least 15 years and have struggled with the problem off and on, probably after the foot gets more tired than usual.
I couldn’t find the model number but they were basic SPD pedals for maybe $40. My fear is that I’ll get locked into this pedal but it’s never happened as I approach 80. Here are my questions:
- Does oiling the spring inside of the pedal help this problem? I’ve done it several times in the past but it’s not clear to me that it helps. Probably does a little bit is my guess.
- Would a newer pedal of the same type possibly be easier to exit? I’d like to stay with a mountain bike style pedal because having two sides is much easier for me.”
My Thoughts
That’s an interesting problem you have, Dick. I’m not a physical therapist but I wonder if there are any exercises that would help improve your right foot’s strength? Another idea is if maybe you have more strength turning your foot to the inside versus turning it to the outside? Since you’ve already stopped and have your other foot on the ground, I think it would be safe to try both. Maybe you’re stronger in one direction?
Also, do you have the flexibility to reach your right foot with your hand to push on your leg and help it release? Don’t even try this maneuver if you’ll risk falling over. You can break bones that way. But if can do it without risk, it might help you.
As for pedal tips, I have a lot of ideas. And, you’ll probably get some helpful ideas and tips in the comments from readers, too.
1. Test the ease-of-release by hand
Have you ever held each shoe in your hand and clicked them in to their respective pedals and then pulled sideways on the shoes to feel with your hands how hard/easy they are to enter/exit the pedals? With your hands you can feel the effort it takes to get out much better than you can with your feet.
If you try it, do it carefully because the bike might fall over or you could slip pulling on the shoes with your hands.
You might find pulling on the right shoe that it’s harder to get it out of the pedal. Then maybe you can experiment with lubes (next tip) and see if you can make it easier to release.
2. Lubing the pedals & cleats is a good idea
Yes, oiling the pedal could work. Oil the spring but be sure to also oil the cleat engagement points on your cleats and on the pedal jaws. Those are metal-to-metal contacts and maybe some corrosion got on the cleats or jaws. There could be a burr on the cleats or jaws, too. Lube might help it release. Or if it’s got a burr or corrosion, you might improve release by sanding/polishing them smooth.
3. Check that any Philips screws on the pedals aren’t sticking up/interfering
You should look at the pedals, too. SPD pedals usually have little Philips screws on them. Sometimes they loosen and start to protrude from the pedal a little. That might cause interference with the cleat. You want to tighten the screws back down so they’re flush with the pedal. But, the screw head can be full of dirt meaning you can’t get a screwdriver tip to drive it. If so, use an awl or pick to clean the dirt out first.
4. Did the right shoe’s cleat move out of position?
The right shoe’s cleat position might be the issue. If by any chance the right cleat became loose on the shoe and changed position, then you would turn your ankle to get out of the pedal but the cleat would not rotate enough to open the jaws on the pedal and release. This would be hard to see unless you turn your shoes upside down and compare your left and right cleat position. Usually they will be similar to each other. You can imagine a straight line down the center of your shoe and gauge the cleat positions by that.
If the cleat needs to be repositioned you might find that the cleat screws/bolts are a little loose, too. So you’ll fix that when you move the cleat back where it should be and tighten them.
5. Maybe the cleats are worn out – or only the right cleat
Since only one shoe is coming out hard, my next idea probably isn’t your problem, but I’ll mention it anyway because it is something that causes difficulty releasing/exiting.
As the cleats click in and out of the pedals, the engagement points on the cleats wear. And this means that when you turn your ankle to get out of the pedals the cleat tips can’t spread the pedal jaws as far apart as they used to, meaning it’s harder to get out of the pedals. When the cleats are really, really worn, it can get really hard to get out of the pedals.
So if you’ve never replaced the cleats on your 15 year old pedals, that might be worth trying – or just replacing the right cleat.
6. Maybe consider Shimano’s new easier clipless pedals
Lastly, Shimano makes pedals for people new to clipless pedals under their CLICK’R name and those are supposed to be their easiest to get in and out of. If it turns out that you need even easier release you might find a shop that sells these that would let you try them to see if they’re any easier. Don’t buy them until you try them because I am not sure how much easier they are. You want to make sure they actually are easier for you than the pedals/cleats you have.
Here’s a link to Shimano’s page on these pedals:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/technologies/component/details/shimano-clickr.html
I hope something here helps you solve the problem, Dick. Readers, please pitch in with your ideas.
Jim Langley is RBR’s Technical Editor. A pro mechanic & cycling writer for more than 40 years, he’s the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop in the RBR eBookstore. Tune in to Jim’s popular YouTube channel for wheel building & bike repair how-to’s. Jim’s also known for his cycling streak that ended in February 2022 with a total of 10,269 consecutive daily rides (28 years, 1 month and 11 days of never missing a ride). Click to read Jim’s full bio.
I loved the photo that JeffvdD sent in. I have never been that flexible. The rider’s elbows are lower than his hands and his chin is lower than his waist! Further, it appears the tops of his handlebars are incredibly lower than the top of his saddle. And just to make the whole thing be additionally uncomfortable, he’s riding on the rivet. If I tried that, I’d be having back surgery by nightfall. All the credit in the world to that rider, though.
Great observations, Fixieguy – thanks for pointing these things out,
Jim
If this is the actual picture of his pedal, I would clean/wash them out to make sure there is no debris holding up the mechanism. I would then lubricate the mechanism. FinishLine makes a spray designed for cleats and pedals that does not attract dirt. I would also definitely take a look at your cleats as per Jim’s advice – they might be too worn down.. If he has the pedal set to the lowest tension, it should hardly take any force to pop out.
Thanks for the tips, Karl! Just to be clear, it’s not his pedal it’s a quick photo of one of my SPD pedals.
Thanks again!
Jim
Dick, you might seriously consider flat pedals instead of any clip-in systems. The cost in serious injuries of trapping a foot and falling over is high at 80 years old and will only get higher.
A good quality flat pedal with pins, not teeth, can grip the right shoe sole remarkably well. The shoes need to be right for the pedals because the wrong lug pattern can preset your foot position, usually the wrong position. The right combination can be wonderful. My biggest problem with them is finding the “just right” position after every stop, but if you don’t stop much it’s not a problem.
I love my SPD clipless pedals, but use flats occasionally. Flats may solve your concerns and you really don’t give up much for it. Look at the bikepacking people for starters – some of them are a lot stronger than me at age 67 and most of them use flat pedals.
Rich
Richard, thanks for your input! I have a problem keeping my foot on a flat pedal due to the spinal cord injury. For some reason it just won’t stay down on the pedal and wants to slip off. I’ll look into using pins. Lubing the pedal seemed to help. Also I’m excited to try Jim’s other idea about the CLICK’R pedals. For the record, the picture of the pedal was not from my bike. That is the same pedal that I use but I have enough problems just riding on pretty clean roads and have never had that kind of dirt on it.
Or just use a flat pedal on the right?
3a) make sure the 2-hole cleat plate washer is facing the right way. On one side, there are chamfers so that the cleat bolts sit flush, if installed upside down, the surface is flat causing the bolts to extend and get caught on the pedal sometimes making it difficult/impossible to extract the shoe.
7) make sure to loosen (unscrew) the spring tension allen hex screws all the way loose.
Thanks for the great tips, Rick!
Jim
There is no exercise which can strengthen a foot with nerve loss. I had my second back surgery because I had developed a drop foot on the right side from a second injury 7 years after my first surgery. It was 95% corrected. I use flat pedals for the same reason as Dick, I can’t get out of the clipless quickly. I have had zero problems since I switched. I still have to watch going up stairs late in the day, as the toes may not elevate enough to clear the edge of a step.
I am 77.
Thanks for sharing your tips, Michael, appreciate it!
Jim
My friends and I find one cleat is usually more worn than the other, because we uncleat on one side at stop signs, lights, other brief stops. That cleat gets more than twice the wear of the other. So do check cleat wear.
Thanks for the tips, Dave!!
Jim
If he’s using traditional MTB Shimano SPD pedals, Shimano makes two dIfferent cleats Sh-56 and Sh-51. The SH56 (Silver) are multi release and are much easier to clip out of. My son could not clip out with Sh51 cleats when learning to ride with clipless pedals, springs in the easiest settings.
If he’s using traditional MTB Shimano SPD pedals, Shimano makes two dIfferent cleats Sh-56 and Sh-51. The SH56 (Silver) are multi release and are much easier to clip out of. My son could not clip out with Sh51 cleats when learning to ride with clipless pedals, springs in the easiest settings.
I forgot to add that the last time I purchased SPD pedals, they came with the Sh51 cleats.
Thanks for the tip Mike! This is very interesting news and may be the solution to my problem!! I will certainly look into this!
Dick
My wife has a similar issue with rotating her foot. She finds that the SH 56 cleats work a lot better for her. And yes cleaning and lubing (I use silicone spray) is critical.
I forgot to add that the last time I purchased SPD pedals, they came with the Sh51 cleats.
Dick: since you have problems with flat pedals you could try old school pedals with toe clips. I used to have a pair of Campy platform pedals which were great.
I had serious unclipping problems with my Favero Assioma pedals even with the most (-) adjustment.
I could only unclip at the 6 o’clock position and with considerable effort. I was told by the maker that the springs would eventually soften, but this did not happen.
However, when I lubricated the sliding side surfaces it made a huge difference; I could unclip at the 12 o’clock position using normal force.
Whenever I start need more force to unclip I lubricate the above mention surfaces.
As the cleats would wear the uncliping force became less regardless of lubrication.
Get Rid of the SPD! Eggbeater Candys are easy to get in and out of and the outside frame contacts the Mtb shoe to keep your foot flat. (I have a damaged perineal nerve on rt foot & foot tries to slide off with other pedals. Cleat is brass & will wear out. Switch cleats left too right to change amount of release.
Hello
I use TIME/MAVIC ATAC clipless pedals – don’t know if you can get them ‘Murca.
I like them because they are easy to clip into, they have lots of sideways float – which my knees like – and they offer different options for cleats:
Put left-hand/gauche standard cleat on left shoe (and right/droite on rhs) – large heel clip-out.
Put right/droite standard cleat on left shoe (and left/gauche on rhs) – smaller heel clip-out.
The easy cleats offer smaller heel clip-out movements.
The TIME/MAVIC link pedal has a flat side too – and comes with the easy cleats.
Happy cycling.
Love the praying mantis position with forearms flat. Me without mentioning names I got the shame of a very expensive (no names, doesn’t matter, it’s EXPENSIVE) tour de France style bike and I ride flat pedals! I am just too scared because I simply can’t unclip. Every time I get half convinced by all my riding buddies to go clipless something else happens where I am glad to be riding flats and deploy my feet down in an emergency something I would never be able to do as quickly to save myself. I honestly don’t think clipless gives you much of an advantage except in brief sprints and even there or up hills all I do is patiently wait for the “up pullers” to tire out because pulling up is not a natural movement for which your legs are designed and maybe 20-30 seconds later on climbs I just reel them in.
What is so much better about flats is you can keep your feet forward on the arches in the middle instead of ball so you recruit your glutes and get more force, and you can also switch positions every few strokes ever so slightly during sprints such that when you get gassed giving you a second, third and fourth wind for a bit more extending how long you can go all out before you fatigue. There are videos on GCN and youtube showing with some pro cyclists even at a fast cruise that flats are not inferior and in some situations can actually give you more power. IMHO I think the fact all the pros use them is a function of how expensive they are and the profit margins and sponsorships. IE something pricey to be SOLD not bought!
Also clipless pedals and cleats involve more moving parts, more maintenance and more failure points. How many times during a group ride someone had a pedal or cleat fail? I ride 5-6k miles a year for many years (including more than a few trail/MTB) and never had a problem with a flat pedal. Flats are also better for diverse footwear so you can ride better during winter and don’t need to plan around your rides as much. You can also wear layers and multiple thick socks underneath without cutting off circulation. Sure clipless systems have boots and warmers and shoe covers and all that stuff but it’s more complicated and way more expensive. More stuff to break, more stuff to fail, more stuff to forget. There’s something pretty nice (but HEAVY) about using your snow boots and 2-3 wool socks when riding in January/Feb in subzero temps.
Been subject to a lot of peer pressure and “YOU CAN GO THAT FAST ON FLATS?!” but have made up my mind. After a very dangerous near miss the other night that would have become a disaster if I was pedaling clipless, I have made the final decision that I will *NEVER* go SPD. It doesn’t seem like a good idea to be stuck to your bike and having to anticipate freeing up your feet because the need to do so can be more urgent and happen faster than it takes to unclip! To anyone who is finding this dangerous and unwieldy system onerous, there’s no shame (And certainly no power or speed loss except in certain sprints) in going to simpler flat pedals. Your (unbroken) bones and (unfallen) body will thank you.
Thank you for this. I have been trying to learn to ride with clipless pedals for the first time at age 47 and am really discouraged. I keep falling down trying to get going because I can’t get the second foot clipped in and then overbalance onto the clipped-in side and can’t get that foot out in time to catch myself. I’ve spent the last two months covered in bruises, and can’t leave from my house because I don’t feel safe on streets where I might have to stop at a light. Yesterday at the halfway mark of a 36 mile ride I stopped on a bridge approach incline and couldn’t get clipped in on the uphill. If I try pedaling before being clipped in my foot slips off. I had to walk the bike to a flatter surface and still fell. Then on the return trip I was still shaky from adrenaline and panicked about where I could safely stop and be able to get back on. The anxiety is just too much. I’m training for a 100k in June and I’m ready to quit clipless (Shimano). My friends are trying to talk me into trying SpeedPlay, but I think I’m ready to just go to flat.