This week, let’s go over something great to know when choosing bicycle pumps, both ones to take along on your bike for flats on the road, and home pumps (also known as “floor pumps” – because they stand up on the ground, making pumping fast and easy).
This subject came up on a ride last week, when Tom – who, rain or shine, never misses one of our Wednesday night hill climbs workouts – showed us his new Lezyne pump as we were kicking back in the shade post-ride. It’s similar to the one in the photo.
A pump head that screws onto the valve
Tom demonstrated how the pump uses a hose that hides in the hollow center of the pump when not in use. And how the hose has two different threaded ends. One screws onto Presta valves (also known as “French” or “needle” valves, and the most common type found on quality road bikes). The other end screws onto Schrader valves – which are identical to car valves and often found on entry-level bikes.
As Tom showed off his pump, the speediest rider who joins our ride, Natasha, chimed in that Tom’s new flat-fixer is the only type of pump she likes to use now. Because it threads on and stays in place. She said that it’s much easier to use than the more common type of pump that has a head that you press onto the valve.
A pump head that presses onto the valve
The press-on type of pump head works with a rubber grommet and often some type of thumblock that locks the head in place by tightening the grommet against the valve.
Both Natasha and Tom said that on that type of pump they didn’t like how the press-on head didn’t always go on airtight. And, worse, because the pump head has to be pressed down firmly on the valve, they have found that it’s pretty easy to mistakenly damage valves. Skinny Presta valves and especially their tiny tip, can easily be damaged.
This is a risk when using a take-along pump that has the head built into the end of the pump during inflation. If you don’t – or can’t – brace your hand against the tire/wheel, it’s possible to push too hard against the valve and damage or even break it off completely.
With the threaded hose head, you nicely avoid any pressure when putting on the head or inflating the tire.
A few pumping tips
I recommend not buying any pump until you’ve tried it to ensure you can inflate your tires with it. Most bicycle shops will have best-seller pumps that you can try out. If you don’t have a local shop, maybe someone you ride with has a favorite pump they’ll let you try. If you’re new to tire inflation they might even have some helpful tips.
If you choose a pump with a locking head to carry on rides, always brace the end of the pump when you’re inflating so that you don’t damage the valve. To do this, wrap a finger of the hand holding the pump head on the valve around a spoke. If you’re hands are large enough, you might be able to put your thumb over the tire, too. As long as you brace the end of the pump on the valve you’ll be pushing against your hand, not the valve. That’s what you want.
Remember that before inflating tires with Presta valves, you must unscrew the tips of them counterclockwise. But don’t stop there. Usually the pressure has sealed the valve shut. So, after unscrewing you need to press down on the tip to open the valve. If the tire is full of air, tap just once to open the valve, break the seal and listen for the pssst sound of air rushing out for that brief second. Then it’s ready to accept air. Be sure to screw it closed clockwise after inflation, too.
Some Presta valves have removable cores (the guts of the sealing mechanism). I’ve seen these come loose enough to allow a slow leak. If you look closely at your Presta valves and they have two flat spots on them for a wrench, you have removable cores. It’s a good idea to check these at least once to make sure they’re tight.
The tip of the Presta valve is what you loosen and tighten to open and close the valve. Sometimes this tip can unscrew from the small threaded post it is supposed to stay on, so use a little care when opening the tip. Don’t force it past its stopping point.
If you do happen to bend the tip’s threaded post while pumping, you can usually straighten them with needlenose pliers and they’ll work just fine again.
Here’s a review of my favorite floor pump, Pedro’s Super Prestige. And here’s a review of John’s, the Aergun X-1000. Both have a press-on pump head but are easy to use because they conform to Presta and Schrader valves as you close the thumblock.
And here’s a review of the SKS Spaero Sport Pump for on-the-road use.
What’s old is new again!
After checking out Tom’s new pump, it occurred to me that pumps with hoses that thread on to valves are nothing new. I remembered my first adult bike, circa 1963. It had a pump a lot like the Lezyne in the photo above, with a threaded hose that screws onto the valve. I guess good ideas never go away.
Love my Lezyne. Another plus point for the hose is that you can screw the hose onto the valve first, and then screw the pump onto the other end of the hose. That way you do not have to flex the hose while trying to thread it onto the valve. The hose is easier to spin onto the valve without the pump attached to the other end.
Never thought about this, but I’ll certainly try this next time I use my Lezyne pump.
I’m using a Lezyne Road Drive pump too, with good success. The flexible hose makes it easier for a lot of people to pump their tires without valve issues.
That said, if I could still get a Silca frame-fit pump with a Campy tip that would be my go-to pump. They were light weight and could generate a lot of pressure easily. The trick with that pump, and really any pump without a flexible hose is to lift the wheel off the ground as you pump. That way, there is no sideways pressure on the valve stem and it keeps the pump firmly engaged because of the weight of the wheel (or even the bike). You hold the pump right by the end near the tip and pump against that force rather than against the wheel.
I acknowledge this is barely on-topic, but pump heads are attached to pumps… The Topeak Road Morph has proved itself repeatedly and become my favorite hand pump. It has a flexible hose, a decent lever style pump head, a small flip-out foot pad, and a useful pressure gauge. It’s just small enough to be carried. I’ve been using this pump on-road for a decade, and it has served reliably and well in a variety of circumstances. In fact, I like it so well I bought a couple of spare pumps, in the event it is ever discontinued. I too used to use the classic Silca frame pump with a Campagnolo tip, and still have one in white, and it still works. I will probably keep forever. I have a pump-related tip – Dow Corning Molykote 55 O-Ring grease. I have been pleasantly surprised at how well (better) my pumps worked when the O-rings and associated surfaces were liberally lubricated with this grease. It’s relatively expensive, (approx. $25 from Amazon, but a 5.3oz tube would likely be, for most of us, a lifetime supply). The improvement I’ve experienced was measurable, and hasn’t degraded over time.
The Genuine Innovations Second Wind Road pump is the best I’ve used. It works well as a pump and has CO2.
I’ve been using a Blackburn AirTower 4 for several years. It has a big barrel and takes only about 12 pumps to get from 0 – 100 psi. A particular feature that I value is that the gauge is at the top of the pump, which makes it much easier on my old eyes. My only complaint is that he rubber grommet wears out from the knurled valve stems that some of my tubes have; I am gradually converting over to smooth stemmed valves. The conundrum is that although the knurled valves wear out the grommet, the pump head will generally still hold onto the valve, except when I am using a smooth valve when a tell-tale hiss commences at about 80 psi once the grommet has worn sufficiently. The good news is that Blackburn warrants their products for life, and they periodically send me replacement pump heads at no cost as I need and request them. Fortunately, I own two of these pumps so as soon as one head goes, I order another head and start using the other pump. I cannot figure out why they cannot just send a replacement grommet. Obviously not the best product design but great customer service.
Downside to the Lezyne is too many o rings to lose. Ok in good conditions or a shed but bad, overcast or raining weather if you lose one of those o rings you are walking. I prefer the simple Topeak pumps.
I bought a floor pump at Harbor Freight for under $15 that inflates to 160 psi. I sm very happy with it.
I agree with RickHarker. I have never had a pleasant experience with my Lezyne pump (or their lights, either). There are simply too many parts on that head which can come unscrewed. There are O-rings between each of those parts as well as each end of the hose (which I usually need to crawl around to find somewhere in the roadside gravel).
I once carried a Topeak Mountan Morph in my CamelBak. The hose does a great job of protecting the valves. I have often had people in my group ask, to use it (even though they had highly rated pumps and/or CO2 cartridges).
Currently, I carry the much smaller Silca Tattico. The ends are insulated, it has a hose, and I successfull (and quickly) pump up tires.
I have a collection of SIlca Impero pumps with the Campy head. The secret is how tight you have the gasket piece. If it will not go onto the valve, loosen it a bit. If it pops off the valve, tighten it. Those pumps (with the plastic Campy head, that is) weighed nothing and moved lots of air.
The unmentioned problem with the Lezyne pump that has a screw on head is that it doesn’t work well with presta valve stems that have removable valve cores (most tubeless stems and some tubes have removable cores). People have unscrewed the valve cores with this pump.
For that to happen, the cores have to be loose to begin with. I only use tubes with replaceable cores and haven’t had any issues with Lezyne pumps, but I always check the cores on new tubes to be sure they’re tight.
I fully agree – had a series of flats recently. tried to replace the inner at the roadside, all fine until my Lezyne pump unscrewed the inner valve.
Impossible to inflate the tyre – what a flaw. Had to call my taxi wife. I also realised I had another flat a week earlier that was caused by the leaking inner – caused by the Lezyne. I am now on the hunt for a decent clip on/press on pump to replace that ‘self sabotager’! Any recommendation?
My favorite pump is a many years old Silca frame pump with a metal Campy head on it. I have carried it on many bikes over the years. I, also, use a very old Silca floor pump, with a wooden handle, at home. I have replaced the internal leather plunger gasket and other internal parts several times over the years.
My Silca Tatico is the absolute best I have ever used. The old frame Silca with the Campy head was good but oh so fragile. The Tatico is pricey, but well worth it. I have had hard to believe good customer service from The new Silca company when rebuilding my very old track pump. I hope they stay in business forever. Dr. Dan