by Stan Purdum
Thinking about adding an e road bike to your bicycle collection? Maybe you want to be able to ride further, or keep up with faster friends. Or perhaps you just love new technology. Either way, we’ve rounded up some of the coolest ebike road bikes of the year for you to peruse.
These are all drop bar road bikes with performance in their DNA. Though the batteries are in the down tubes, none of them scream “I’m a power-assisted bike.” Depending on the manufactures’ choice, the motors are either in midbike (the bottom bracket location) or in the rear hub
Did we miss one of your favorite brands or models? Do you ride one of these models? Leave a comment and tell us about it.
Trek Domane+ LT E Road Bike
$6500-$7000
Motor brand (type): Fazua Evation (midbike)
According to Trek, the Domane+ LT is designed for roadies who value an authentic road bike experience but who want an extra boost. This is a high-performance carbon steed that looks and feels like a traditional road bike — and even can be one since you can easily remove the Fazua drivepack from the frame and ride the bike without it. But with it, the drive system kicks things up a notch — up to 20 mph — when you need it (like riding into a headwind or pushing up a stiff climb). But it doesn’t add much drag or resistance when it’s not in use or when you pump pass the maximum level of assist. The bike features endurance geometry, hydraulic disc brakes, the road-smoothing IsoSpeed suspension system and Shimano Ultegra components.
Giant Road E+ 1 Pro
$4,500
Motor brand (type): SyncDrive Pro (midbike)
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/road-eplus-1-pro-2020
Aiming at a lower price point for its top-of-the-line ebike, Giant’s Road E+ 1 Pro Bike has an aluminum frame and a composite fork, and a mix of Shimano and other brand components, but these all work together to provide a high-performance road-riding experience. Its SyncDrive Pro motor can reach 170 rpm cadence and 80Nm of torque output. The bike has 6-sensor Smart Assist technology and RideControl ONE command center, all integrated with the sporty frameset. With it, you can climb higher and ride longer.
Orbea Gain M20 20mph
About $5,000 but pricing varies depending on components selected
Motor brand (type): MAHLE ebikemotion X35 (rear hub)
https://www.orbea.com/us-en/ebikes/road/gain-road/cat/gain-m20-usa
This carbon ebike, with flat-mount disc brakes and inner cable routing, aims to take the focus away from the electric assist and place it instead on the rider, “giving them just enough of a helping hand to make a tough climb more manageable,” says a review on the Contender Bicycles site. This means the bike handles more like a traditional road bike than a standard ebike. The Ebikemotion X35 motor operates quietly and gives smooth assist with 250 W power and up to 40 Nm torque, and offers help up to 20 mph, with 60 miles or more of range, according to users. Whereas some other road ebikes have enlarged down tubes because of the encased battery, the Orbea Gain’s down tube appears to look more like those on regular road bikes.
Pinarello Nytro SRAM Force Road Ebike
About $7,500
Motor brand (type): Fazua Evation (midbike)
http://www.pinarello.com/en/nytro
The Nytro is the first e road bike from Pinarello, but it’s a traditional road bike at heart, since it’s inspired by Pinarello’s Dogma F10 geometry, and thus designed to maintain the ride feel of a high-end champ. Made of carbon and featuring the lightest electric assist system on the market, the bike weighs 28 pounds, or just under 20 pounds without the battery. The Nytro adheres to Pinarello’s asymmetric philosophy, which means that the right halves of both its top tube and seat tube are “considerably wider” than the left halves. The company says this makes for perfect balance. There are four speed settings, but Pinarello has purposely capped the top end at 15.5 mph, “so there’s no unfair advantage when it comes to sprinting on the club run.” Comes with a full SRAM Force 11-speed groupset and hydraulic disc brakes.
LOOK E-765 Optimum Ultegra Di2 Road Ebike
$8,935
Motor brand (type): Fazua Evation (midbike)
https://www.lookcycle.com/fr-en/products/bikes/e-bike/road/e-765-optimum-red-glossy
Of this bike, the five-time Tour de France winner Bernard Hinault, says, “It is a genuine revolution for any cyclist. I would never have believed they could retain all of the sensations of a 100% muscle-driven bike.”
LOOK’s carbon e-bikes are created to perform, but they offer electrical assistance from the Fazua Evation motor. The bike features increased comfort and traction due to seatstays with the 3D WAVE technology. Shimano Ultegra Di2 provides electric shifting. LOOK says the E-765 Optimum is a genuine LOOK built on the premise “that cycling is first and foremost a leisure activity that should go hand-in-hand with pleasure, not pain and suffering.”
Focus Paralane2 9.9 Road Ebike
About $11,600
Motor brand (type): Fazua Evation (midbike)
https://www.focus-bikes.com/int/95592-paralane-9-9
The Paralane2 9.9 is a motor-assisted carbon road bike from Focus, but it handles like a high-end road bike, with or without the battery. With three speed settings, and using the Fazua Evation power system, it assists you up to a speed of 15.5 mph providing up to 400 watts of assistance while climbing. A full charge should provide enough power to assist you with up to 4,600 feet of uphill climbing. Features Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 gear shifting. The full assembly weighs 28 pounds, or 20 pounds without the battery. The bike has a maximum tire clearance of up to 35 mm, leaving room for gravel tires if you prefer.
Bianchi Aria E-Road
$6,500
Motor brand (type): MAHLE ebikemotion X35 (rear hub)
https://www.bianchi.com/bike/ultegra-di2-11sp-compact/
Regarding the motor in the rear wheel hub, Bianchi says, “Nestled between the rear cassette sprockets and the rear disc brake rotor, the motor is virtually hidden.” This carbon bike has the look and feel of a traditional high-performance race-bred steed, but with electrical assistance in the background at speeds between 15 and 20 mph — when you need it, making it, says Bianchi, “the perfect solution for riders, with a desire to take on long, demanding rides selecting the extra power and speed of a trained professional only when it is needed.” It features a Shimano Ultegra Di2 11-speed compact drivetrain.
Cannondale SuperSix EVO Neo2 Road Ebike
$6,500
Motor brand (type): MAHLE ebikemotion X35 (rear hub)
Cannondale asks you to picture this: “Fast, just got faster. Hills flatten. Headwinds vanish. Speed prevails. This is everything you love about road riding — amplified.” And “amplified” sounds about right. The SuperSix Evo Neo2 is an ebike on a carbon frame with a Shimano Ultegra mechanical groupset, built to thrive on the open road and hills. The frame has truncated airfoil tube shapes that offer as good or better stiffness than round tubes, but reduce drag by up to 30%. The ebikemotion rear-hub drive system has a range of up to 62 miles on a single charge.
Specialized Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon Road Ebike
$6,500
Motor brand (type): Specialized SL 1.1 (midbike)
https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/turbo-creo-sl-comp-carbon/p/170240?color=261001-170240
Specializes says the Creo SL “is the lightest e-bike in its class,” and at 27 pounds, it just might be. And that’s a factor in increasing its battery range. Specialized puts that at up to 80 miles, but also offers an optional range extender that provides up to 40 additional miles. This lively carbon bike is designed offer no resistance when pedaling unassisted. With this bike, says Specialized, “It’s you, only faster.”
I’m considering either the Specialized Creo SL or the Trek Domane+ HT. The HT is Trek’s mid motor bike with speed to 28 mph and 80 mile battery. The Trek is heavier than the Specialized. I’m going to try both of them on fairly long rides with big hills to determine which one meets my needs. Would like the Creo but not sure how it’ll meet my needs on the bigger hill climbs.
What did you decide. I’m looking at the same two bikes
What did you decide, I’m looking at both of these as well.
It is called the HP and I got a great deal on one that was below the Cannondale SuperSix EVO Neo 2 which is a similar bike! It is what is important to you that should be the deciding factor. For me the boost to 28 and the ability to climb large hills with ease was the deciding factor. Resale and popularity was another. 28 mph road bikes are insanely more popular then 20 or 15.5 mph with buyers want to purchase a used bike. On the other hand, most bike thieves will still the HP over a more hidden bike unless they are conscious of the model and buyer.
Too bad they missed the BH version
I purchased a Specialized Creo SL Expert two months ago – have about 800 miles on it now. I love it!!! Road tested the Creo, the Trek Domane+LT, and the Orbea Gain M20. First the eBike rationale: I am 72 – my wife is 60 – and we’ve found ourselves now riding at different performance levels. With our bike club she rides 18-20 mph group, and I ride 16-18. The difference is greater on climbing routes. We’ve ended up riding together less and less due to the speed differential. She proposed an eBike a few months ago as a way for us to ride together more, with better balance – no more dog circles for her:) . It was our anniversary present to the relationship. Initially I’d say I relented – but frankly it’s the best decision I’ve made in a long time. The impact on our ability to have better, longer and more balanced rides together is way beyond my expectations. It’s truly a game-changer in our ability to ride together, and for me to ride with her group. She can ride her ride and I can ride mine – both getting a good workout and having fun. This is something you don’t understand until you ride these bikes – you can manage the gain and get a hard or easy workout – your choice.
I chose the Creo for a number of reasons – among them the 28 mph limit, the low weight, the range and the overall performance – after testing the three noted above, I also wanted a bike jointly for road and gravel – and the Creo takes 650B wheels, in addition to 700C. I had a wheel set made, and run 650B 47’s. It’s a great gravel bike. The Orbea would be my second choice, but with hub motor it’s less practical to shift wheel sets – and the tire size is more limited. My experience with the Creo has truly been beyond my expectations. It performs like a high performance road bike and the power gain as you’re riding is largely invisible – feels like stronger legs. I’ve found using Boost 1 basically neutralizes our ride differential – and on a mixed ride (in Boost 1) it averages 80-100 miles on a charge. On a climbing route – say 30 miles & 3,000′ – it will get maybe 60 miles to a charge. The only minor complaint would be it’s a bit noisier on climbing that i’d like. I was also surprised with a new std (boost 12×110) for the front axle by Specialized – and had to have a set of 650B’s made up by my LBS – on Specialized/DT Swiss hubs.
The key to me in the perceived dilemma of “cheating or not” is simply to think about (re-think) what your ride is about. A bike – analog or motorized – is simply a machine, a vehicle for a human experience. We get to define the purpose and the experience. If you are using it to pose as a faster rider, or try to cover up that it’s an eBike, then “cheating” yes applies. If you are using it to enjoy the ride, to be able to better ride with a partner or group you enjoy, or to allow for continuation of riding due to age and/or physical impairment then it simply becomes a vehicle for an enhanced experience – a win-win. I still ride my normal road bike — but I choose the machine for the ride purpose.
I am currently test riding the bike in group settings for our club to see what the impacts are of allowing road eBikes on group rides. Due to Covid 19 hiatus this will take a while. But, my experience to date with my wife’s group (solid group of 18-20 mph experienced riders) is that it’s largely invisible as long as your goal is to be invisible – i.e. don’t abuse the extra power – and they love you when the winds pick up, you bump the boost, and take the front!
Thanks for such detailed feedback! I agree completely with your point of view. I was an ebike skeptic until I borrowed one in the Bavarian Alps and actually rode it, and then I better understood how they can be useful after that.
Thank you so much for this essay on the Specialized Turbo Creo. I, 89 years old, have been thing of this item for quite a while. You have convinced me. The only thing is – I prefer straight handlebars.
Hi Bob: I would call a shop in your area that sells them and see what the alternatives are to fit a straight bar. I have no knowledge on the details but I’m sure a good mechanic and a fitter could give you some alternatives for possibly fitting straight bar – although that would also change the shifters too – but it’s kind of a mullet build to begin with and having a 1x crank means the left shifter isn’t needed in any case.
Bob Williams, thank you for your prompt and intelligent reply.
Bob Miller
Get the Specialized Evo. It’s the same bicycle as the Creo but with straight bars. Your bicycle shop would realize this in a heartbeat.
How much climbing did you do, and how much battery did you have on completion of your longest ride
Thanks Bob, this fits my present dilemma.
Your comments are greatly appreciated and I will test ride the Specialized soon..
Jerry T
I like the Colnago E64. It’s hard to tell by looking at it that it is an E-bike. I believe it is around 25 pounds. The 250 watt motor is actually in the rear hub but is so small it looks like the older style Powertap power meter.
I am looking at the e64 to purchase. I am 77yo.i have back issues & have lost some strength on left sie. I have ridden a SPectrun ti triahtlon bike for 25yrs. .( I have done team RAAM 2x) I just test rode a Cannadale ebike. & its is like have a tail wind on lowest setting. But it is heavy & road bike handle bars etc feel cumbersome.
My questions to you are: approx how many miles do you get on the battery and have you added the extra battery.. Is it difficult to figure out whcih assist setting you are in when riding?
Thanks
SHaron
[email protected]
How many miles one gets has a certain variance based on wind, weight, hills, assist level, etc.
I get anywhere from 1-1/2% to 2.9% battery use per mile with my typical use between 2.25% and 2.5% per mile. I also insist in not going below 5% (for battery health) and, in order to avoid the automatic reduction of assist when going below 15%, I prefer not doing that also. I use a Battery Extender also to avoid having to think about range, unless I’m riding 30 miles or less.
With these parameters you can do the math with a starting battery level at 100% or 150%, if you’re using the Extender.
Congrats on doing the RAAM. I accompanied Lon Haldeman on his last day while he did the RAAM n 1982. The first thing he said to me when I met up with him was, “I know this sounds crazy but…is there a brick wall across the road just ahead?” Hallucinating. If you look at the videos from that first RAAM you’ll see me with that big, original Bell helmet.
While I probably have more miles left in my bikes than I have left in me, bicycles still intrigue me. But before I spend thousands of dollars on an e- bike that works for me, three pieces of information that I would like to see are often vague, unavailable, inaccurate, or hedged. So maybe some reviewer, bike magazine, industry beacon, or testing facility could devise fair, accurate, clearly specified, independent, and repeatable tests that would reveal how far a stock e-bike could go on one charge, how high it could climb, how much it weighs, how comfortable it is, and how aerodynamic it is. I’m particularly interested in the range and climbing of an e-bike, but all I see is about 60 miles, 80 miles, that plus 40 miles with a special add-on., or 4,000 or so feet. I know it’s complicated, but on the price-sticker of every new automobile sold is the miles per gallon that car will get.
John: I agree it would be nice to see a number as on a car – but I suspect it’s actually much more complicated on a bike. On the other hand a car isn’t so simple either – as I notice I loose maybe 5 mpg on my car simply by putting racks, and especially bike up there. In any case I have done some testing on my Creo – mainly to see how the expected 80 mile range works out – and what the characteristics are that make a difference – i.e how much I weigh, how fast we’re going, headwinds (or tail), hills, and road surface (pave vs gravel), and use of boost levels. So I weigh 200 lbs – meaning total bike weight including water/seat bag is say 235 lbs. The “marketed” range of the Creo is 80 miles – with caveats for weight, hills, etc. My experience to date is that this is a pretty good average number. Most of my rides are 30-40 miles in length. When I do say a 40 mile ride that is relatively flat – say 1,000 – 1,500′ gain – and largely in boost level 1, I have been experiencing about a 100 mile range level. Alternatively when I do a 30 mile ride with 3,000′ climbing and probably 75/25 in boost1 /boost2 – I will see about a 60 mile range number. Today my wife and I did a 38 mile ride with 3,500′ climbing – probably 90% in boost 1 and 10% in boost 2 (largely hills above 7-8% – as high as 14%). I used 58% of battery charge – a 65 mile range. So Bottom line for me – doing a hill ride (100’/mile or so) results in about a 60 mile range, while a flat ride (30’/mile) can be upwards of 100 mile range. Obviously stiff headwinds would be similar impact to climbing. My experience has been consistent – i.e. multiple flat and hilly rides showing similar battery usage.
I also find that gravel eats up more power – as there’s higher friction, etc – but, it’s not extreme. I do have the extra 50% battery but have yet to use it as our planned long gravel/road rides were cancelled due to Covid 19 shutdowns.
I weigh about as much as you do and I’ve found that, in general, the boost 1 level (75/40) eats 1.5% of total battery per mile and my boost 2 level (60/75) gets about 2.2% per mile. At boost 3 (90/100) I get 2.9ish% per mile. The extender adds another 50% total capacity for a combined capacity of 150% start capacity.
But giving precise numbers for everyone is impossible, not only due to the number of obvious variables (wind, weight, temperature, how much power your legs are producing, etc.) but also because of the almost infinite way in which one can program the assist level based on one’s preferences in that regard.
Wow these road e-bikes have come a long way, thanks for the review. I’ve owned an e-bike for about 2.5 years. Retrofitted a Specialized hybrid bike with a hub drive system from Falco: https://www.electricbicycleworld.com. The system cost about $1800 then and its about $2200 now. A number of readers (myself too) are interested in the range of the ebikes in order to compare. My thought is that a graph/table is needed to plot the range of e.g., a 160 pound rider; at three assistance levels (lowest-mid-high); two different routes–one with less than 300ft elevation and one with 3,000ft elevation; and average speeds of 10mph, 15mph, and 20mph; with tail and head winds less than 8mph. This would yield more informative data to inform e-bike purchase decisions.
I’m also interested in maintenance costs over years based on reading about mid-drive gear longevity.
Anyway the Falco system I referenced above also has regenerative capabilities. The hub has a 10-speed cassette and when I pedal backwards 1-2 revolutions it triggers regenerative braking, similar to backing your foot off the accelerator of a Tesla. In both Tesla and Falco systems it charges the battery and leads to less brake wear. One feature I like about the Falco system is that I can configure the amount of assist and regen braking for five different levels of each on an iPhone app. So if I am commuting with panniers and have more weight, I want more assist at lower levels. Without the panniers I may want to tone down the amount of assist at lower levels. Similar with the regen effect, I set it at a level that is not going to provide too much braking at higher speeds. BTW the panniers are on the front fork.
The other thing I wanted to mention was regarding flats with a hub drive. I have tried tire sizes of 700×28, x32, and x40 for both front and rear. The main reason was the terrain on my commute. The rear hub drive wheel now has a 700×40 Maxxis Refuse tubeless tire. I put in about 1.5 oz of Stan’s sealant every 6 months and so far so good, no flats in about 1.5 yrs. The rear wheel uses 17mm bolts and I do not carry the tools for it. But I do carry a AAA membership/AAA app on my iPhone and bike transportation services are covered. This fallback has not been needed yet but is good to know it exists in case the rear tire was gashed, the sealant couldn’t fix it, and there was no one available to pick me up.
One note on e-bike usage. I got it for commuting to work and shopping around town. Fantastic. I also found that it is superb for recovery from a standard (non e-bike) road, MTB, or gravel ride. It can provide therapeutic spinning by selecting an assist level to match the terrain to maintain a true recovery effort.
Again, thanks for the e-bike coverage.
I would also like comparisons between classes 1, 2 and 3 bikes… IE the pinarello caps the assist at 15.5 mph? Not sure why they would do that when the rider could choose to turn of e assist at any time?
The assist levels to 15.5 mph are due to European and Canadian laws that require that cut-off speed due to a perceived “safety” aspect.
I am 68 y/o and have been riding for exercise for over a decade now and I am considering an E- road bike for the next and probably the last bike I will own before I “go to Florida and take up a 3-wheeler and wear knee- high socks”. I don’t know much about the MTN bike crowd, but “roadies” are kind of a snotty crowd when it comes to equipment and effort and that has kind of intimidated me because I should be “earning” my miles. I get it, and I don’t ride in groups, but there are ‘un-written’ rules about such things.
I too have criticised friends who choose to ride e-bikes and been annoyed by strangers who ride faster than their abilities around me. Having said that: I want to ride to places that I can’t now. Yeah, I can still do 22mph on the flats (don’t we always have to include this?) and go up hills, but I suffer and want to ride further. If it is not a competition, then where is the harm? Everyone gets older if they are lucky and should enjoy the sport of their choice. I am in when the sports manufactures (Trek, etc.) quit being a cabal; manufacturing products in China paying pennies and raping consumers w/ outlandish prices. I won’t hold my breath. Good comments BTW.
There is a reason MFG’s are cagey about range as noted above. Probably the best way to compare is WH of the battery and wattage the motor uses. Or even better what wattage you will use the motor at. Divide that into the batteries WH rating and you get a time in hours. If you know your average speed, multiply speed x time = distance. Presto a range! As stated before too many variables, the biggest one is you and your power output. Having a good day? You will go further. Bad day? Stay close to home!
I’ve been a road and mtn. biker for over twenty five years.. Not that I planed it but I’ve always ridden with younger rides than myself, usually 10-15 to years younger. Riding with younger riders was challenging and that what I enjoy doing, pushing me to my limits. However, at 65 yrs. old I found it too hard to stay with the younger riders. I was pushing myself to complete exhaustion and was really beginning to feel the tow it was having on my health. I decided to purchase an ebike and after test riding the Creo & Domane I purchased the Trek Domane+ HP7. I can’t say enough of how much this bike has brought back the joy of riding again. I am able to ride with the same bunch of younger riders now and not be exhausted anymore. I can take my turns out front for even longer turns now especially when into head winds of which they enjoy that. I have ridden 80 miles numerous times and still have battery left to boost the assist for the high speed run back in to the finish. I’m able to get higher mileage by switching the assist off when riding in the pace turning it on when heading up hills, out front or cross winds. Yes, there have been a few people who have commented that I’m cheating of which my reply is “how”? We are not in a race competition. I never pretend to be any more than what I am, an old man out enjoying what I love doing. I still ride my older Specialized Roubaix when I’m out riding by myself or with my wife. All I can say is I really enjoy this bike and if you’re in a similar situation try test riding one. You may only be cheating yourself.
I really like your comment! I am a 60 year old who just purchased mine! You said it better then me!
Thank you. I would love to know why you chose the Trek over the Creo as I am considering one of those two currently.
I had decided to but a road ebike and had pretty much settled on the Creo as I have pretty much always ridden Specialized bikes. However after reading reviews and looking at the specs I decided I should probably at least try the Domane just for comparision shake. I rode both the Domane+ HP7 and the Creo SL 3 days apart on the same route. I rode the Creo first and then the Domane. The Creo is a really nice bike and I really wanted to go with the Creo primarily for the weight difference but the Domane just fit me better, rode better, handled better and just fit me better. The Creo may be a better choice for someone younger who can maintain a high cadence (90 -110) as that’s even Specialized suggest to be more efficient. Being over 65 that’s not in the cards any more. I have no regrets and I am very happy with my decision to go with the Domane. I have just over 2,000 miles on it now. Have gotten in many solo 60 mile rides and several 80 mile group rides and have battery left. In my group rides I usually turn the assist off while back in the pace line and turn it on going up hills or out front when pace picks over 21 mph. I can turn on the assist to get heart rate back down and then turn it off until needed again. I still ride my analog Roubaix but I really enjoy riding this bike.
Yes, if you’re not racing and being honest it isn’t “cheating”. But, let’s face it, most “serious” analog cyclists are riding aerodynamic, carbon, super light bicycles that the Eddy Mercx of old would also consider as “cheating”. So, it’s all relative anyway, even within the narrow context of those who make the accusations to us informal riders.
Fantastic descriptions and reviews. I have to find a place to test drive both the Creo and the Trek. I own the Trek Domane Carbon so I’m familiar with the feel but the review on the Creo have been fantastic. It’s a big chunk of change for a bike but my back doctor says that I can no longer do the 60-100 mile regular rides that I’ve done for the last 10 years.
Does anyone know where in Southern California I can test ride these bikes?
I don’t know of a store in SO Cal, but check Seriuos Cysling in LA area.. I or rather my husband purchased a Colagno E64 bike for me to ride. I had back surgery that didn’t work so left me with a weak left side. The Colagno & other bikes with hub motors assist up to 20 mph in US ( 15mph in europr?)
I test rode a cannondale & I highly suggest you test ride an e-bike. They are different espeacially if you have riden for years on a regular bike.. But you will enjoy it & can go further & still get a heavy duty workout.
I bought the Argon18 Subito Road and love it. It’s a stealth road bike. I got it in Spring 2021 with Umtegra but they are now selling it with SRAM. Have 1000 miles on it. Highly recommend.
It has a hub motor (not as balanced or as useful as a central motor), a limited assist speed (max at 20 mph in Canada), a 36 volt battery which is 1/3rd less as efficient at the 48 volt motors in the Creo, and a lot less range. I’ll pass.
Your reply assumes I want a lot of power and a lot of distance.. I want neither. If you are a decent rider and only want the occasional boost to keep up with stronger riders, this is a fantastic bike. First, it is so stealth it looks like a regular road bike. Second, if you are not riding centuries, it is all you will need. I’ve ridden 50 miles and not approached a low battery. This is NOT the bike if you want to ride at 25mph or with the battery on constantly and ride over 40 miles.
I picked and bought the Trek Domane+ HP. Speed and performance.. Sure the Creo was lighter but who cares when you have a motor that equalized the weight difference with power. Comfort and expandability. rules with this bike.. Okay the Creo has about an 80 mile range to Trek 76 miles (200lb rider on eco on mostly regulat streets according to estimator) but put on the range extender and Trek goes up to 156 while Creo is 120.. Change the battery to a 625 and the range is 95 miles. Carry the 500 wh battery in a frame bag and the range goes to 180. Use a range extemder with a 625wh and 500wh and make it 176. You can even reduce the weight of the battery and still get higher range then the Specialized. Plus don’t forget about the iso speed. That makes this a winner in my book
Your reply assumes I want a lot of power and a lot of distance.. I want neither. If you are a decent rider and only want the occasional boost to keep up with stronger riders, this is a fantastic bike. First, it is so stealth it looks like a regular road bike. Second, if you are not riding centuries, it is all you will need. I’ve ridden 50 miles and not approached a low battery. This is NOT the bike if you want to ride at 25mph or with the battery on constantly and ride over 40 miles.