By John Marsh, Editor & Publisher
This QT is based on my recent experience with – of all things – water bottles. But it brought to mind a conversation I had several years ago at Interbike with a Shimano tech expert (I’ll circle back to that in a minute).
I came home from this year’s Interbike with a couple of new Polar insulated bottles, which feature the new Zipstream high-flow, self-sealing cap. The new nozzle easily pulls up a couple of millimeters to open, then pushes back down to close. The nozzle also easily comes off for cleaning. In my post-Interbike coverage, in a mini-review of the new bottles, I wrote:
“All in all, it’s a vast improvement over the old “bite it with your teeth and yank it open” type of nozzle that Polar and many other bottle makers have long used.
“I’ve been using a couple of samples Polar provided since Interbike (from their new Color Series), and I like everything about the bottles. Not only does the Zipstream nozzle work well (it could flow just a bit better, but it’s still quite good), I really like the harder shell of the 24-ounce bottle, which goes into and comes out of my cages better than other, softer-sided bottles. And the inside of the bottles is the same white plastic, no matter the outside color, which makes it easy to clean in that you can easily see any residue against the white color. I’d say Polar has a winner on its hands with this new bottle.”
My Opinion Has Changed a Bit
Since those first few rides,I changed my tune about the harder-than-normal shell – I decided I did not like it, because it is just too hard to squeeze – but in doing so realized the new Zipstream nozzle is even better than I had thought.
Here’s how I discovered that: Long a fan of the Camelbak Podium Chill and Ice bottles (click for my review), in part because of their well-functioning nozzle and the 2x insulation power of the Ice model, I decided to do a little experiment.
After a quick compatibility test, I combined the Zipstream cap with the Podium Ice bottle. Voila! Best of both in one bottle. What I discovered is that the Polar Zipstream nozzle does, in fact, flow great – when mated with a bottle you can easily squeeze, and is even better insulated than the Polar.
And the nozzle stays cleaner and mold-free when compared to the Camelbak nozzle (which is notorious for mold production).
Franken-bottle (see photo) is better than either of the two original models.
Back to That Shimano Conversation
The conversation I had with that Shimano tech years ago was to ask about Shimano’s position on the compatibility of mixing components (in my case, a newer model Dura-Ace front derailleur with older model Ultegra shifters and Ultegra rear derailleur). The tech told me it wouldn’t work, that those models were not designed to function together. That’s when I told him I had actually been running this exact combination for the past two years, and it worked just fine!
Heck, my everyday bike is pretty well a Franken-bike, overall, with one remaining piece (seat post) dating back to a predecessor bike purchased in 2005, and having been updraded piecemeal over time.
The moral of the story is, there are times and instances where a combination of technologies may work just as well, or even better – from low-tech water bottles to high-tech components. (Of course, there are times when that doesn’t hold true, too, but it may be worth a try on occasion.)
If you have an idea for a QT, fire away. We’re always looking for good info we can share with fellow roadies. We would love to hear from you with any suggestions you have. Contact us by clicking Quick Tips Ideas.
—John Marsh & The RBR Team
Hi, John. I work in a bike shop and one of my colleagues has a Campy crank with a recent model Shimano Ultegra front derailleur being controlled by a SRAM Rival lever. I rode it and it works quite well. Frankenbike indeed.
Russ,
That is, indeed, quite the Franken-bike! I don’t think I’d go that far in my “mixing and matching,” but it proves the point.
Maybe Polar will make the new top available for purchase w/o bottle attached.
I’ve never had issues when mixing mechanical DA, Ultegra, or 105 shifters/derailleurs/cassettes/chains as long as they matched (9, 10, 11) speeds.
I was given a frame and decided to pull all the old parts together hanging around in my garage to build a gravel grinder. I have Shimano Sora 9 spd. combo levers with an LX mtn bike front derailleur, STX rear, 105 crank, Deore cassette, STX cantilever brakes. Took a little fine tuning but all works fine!
Got Koozies you aren’t using? In the hot summer, I slip my 24 oz. Camelbak Podium Chill bottle in a foam or neoprene Koozie. That covers the bottom half. Then I take a second one that I’ve cut the bottom out of and slip it down over the top of the bottle until it touches the first one. Since I have stainless steel bottle holders on my frame, they flex enough to let me slip these extra-insulated water bottles into them. The extra insulation extends the cold drink by at least two times. Neoprene is a better insulator than the cheaper foam material if you have Koozies made from neoprene. If I freeze the contents of a bottle and put it in the foam, I’ll still have slush three hours later when the temperature is 95 F. But beware if you need to drink the liquid before then. To remedy, I only fill half to three-quarter full and freeze. Before heading out, I fill it with ice cubes and top it off with water. I do the same to a bottle kept in the refrigerator but not frozen and drink it first on the ride. I adjust the technique to match when I will need the frozen drink and how hot it is. I have also found that freezing my drink mixture longer than just overnight will also take longer for it to thaw. Two days in the freezer seems to provide maximum ice longevity. I’ve been doing this for the last two summers with the same koozies, which look a little beaten up at this point, but are still functional. I’m probably due for new ones.
Patrick; they are available for $4.99 on amazon
I’ve had the Camelback Podium Chills for a couple of months now. I, too, like the softer, easier-to-squeeze bottles. I have had both this and the Polar tops, and to me they mold at about the same rate. Camelback’s tops seem a bit easier to get a dishrag into to clean out, and I like the twist open – though on the bike I tend to keep the bottle open, no matter the brand.
I’ve mixed Campy parts for years in ways they would not approve. My bike originally had Campy 10 speed Chorus 54/39 carbon crank and Record carbon front derailleur. I damaged the derailleur in a crash, and decided to go to a compact crank at about the same time. I found a clearance deal for a Campy 11 speed 50/36 crank and 11 speed Record front derailleur. Checking the specs, was sure 10 speed chain would fit through derailleur and saw no way wider chain would be a problem on the crankset. Installed both and they performed flawlessly.