QUESTION: How much should I spend on a road bike? I’m a runner and I’m already pretty fit, and I’m interested in getting into road cycling. Some of the bikes are crazy expensive. I’ve seen $10k bikes at my local shop! What’s a good range I should be looking at? I am interested in buying a new bike and not a used one. —Greg J.
RBR’S STAN PURDUM REPLIES: You are asking the right question. The price of many of “crazy expensive” bikes can be justified if a) you are planning to participate in high-stakes bicycle racing or b) you’re a long-time rider and you want to treat yourself to one of the absolute best bikes available.
But assuming neither of those situations apply to you, there are some mid-range road bikes that will bring you miles of smiles and a good cycling experience year after year.
The first fact to know when looking for an affordable bike is that while virtually all high-end bike frames are made of carbon fiber, which is the most expensive and lightest of the frame-building materials, some of the same models with same geometry are also available in aluminum at a significantly lower cost. Aluminum is a perfectly acceptable bike-building material, and while slightly heavier than carbon, we’re only talking about 1.5-2 pounds difference when comparing frames.
Admittedly, lower weight is not the only advantage of carbon bikes; they also are better at damping the vibrations from rough road surfaces and provide something called “torsional stiffness” that makes your pedal strokes slightly more efficient. But these are marginal differences that are most important when trying to gain every fraction of a second possible over your opponents while racing. Besides, that aluminum bike you buy may come with a carbon fork anyway, to give you some of the road damping effects.
Other factors that make high-end bikes pricey are the components used — shifters, derailleurs, cog sets, cranksets, chains and brakes (those often sold together as “groupsets”), plus headsets and bottom bracket cartridges. The wheels chosen, including the rims, spokes and hubs, also affect the cost of the bike.
So if you are going to race, you probably want a groupset such as the Shimano 105 or SRAM Rival, but if you just want to ride well without mortgaging your home to afford the bike, you could drop down a groupset level or two and get a bike fitted with the SRAM Apex or Shimano Tiagra (or the new CUES, which is replacing that Shimano groupset later this year). The lower level groupsets are still quality products but aren’t built using the lightest materials and don’t offer the latest in innovative performance tweaks. But they will serve you just fine.
It’s hard to offer a precise dollar figure, as sales, existing inventory, and bike shop willingness to help you build up the bike you want can all affect the price. A bike at the Shimano 105 or SRAM Rival level can cost somewhere in the $2,000 range, depending on the brand. In general, you should be able to get a very good bike for about 50-60% of what the top-of-the-line models with Dura Ace or Red typically cost.
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Stan Purdum has ridden several long-distance bike trips, including an across-America ride recounted in his book Roll Around Heaven All Day, and a trek on U.S. 62, from Niagara Falls, New York, to El Paso, Texas, the subject of his book Playing in Traffic. Stan, a freelance writer and editor, lives in Ohio. See more at www.StanPurdum.com.
larry english says
1200
Tony M says
Buy the best bike you can afford or are willing to spend. Most of us have way “more” bike than we need. But if it’s something you’re passionate about and have the means, go for it. I’m sure this holds true for all hobbies (golf, skiing, etc.), so we’re not alone.
R. Groves says
For someone just starting out doing criterium racing, which comprises the vast majority of US racing, I would recommend an aluminum frame road bike rather than a carbon one as you WILL be spending a lot of time tied up in crashes. In that situation an aluminum frame is a lot more survivable and predictable that an inexpensive carbon frame is.
John Schubert says
You aren’t going to lose a race because your derailleur weighs a few grams more.
Instead of thinking of cheapening down from the top, think of this: start from the bottom and ask yourself, what changes when you spend more.
If you start with an entry level road bike in the thousand-dollar-ish range, you get a bike that is far better than the bikes that won most of the great races throughout history. You also get sensible wheels that you can true yourself, instead of goofball-spoke wheels that require special-order spokes and a tensiometer (a tool that is a real headache to use).
If you go REALLY cheap and get an eight-cog freewheel, you get a far more robust chain that is less likely to break than the delicate chains that are used with more and more cogs. You won’t need replacement chains nearly as often, but when you do, they’re ten bucks at Wal Mart.
Your bike should be a tool, not a status symbol.
And here’s an anecdote to underscore my grumpy opinion:
Many decades ago, I was in a criterium race. I got a bad position on the starting grid, and had to come to a stop 10 pedal strokes into the race. I chased as best as I could, but I eventually got pulled by the officials.
So, I went and watched the finish. One of my teammates won. On a Schwinn TOURING BIKE with Schraeder valve stems. He didn’t count grams. He trained. (I’ll guess that he had a weight disadvantage of about six ounces per wheel.)
With the money you save by not spending too much, you’ll have more money to travel to races and buy needed accessories.
Stan Purdum says
Excellent advice, especially for starting out in cycling..
Fred R says
If you are participating in amateur racing buy an inexpensive aluminum frame bike like the Specialized Allez Sport with 105 mechanical, that bike will only set you back about $1,400, then if you crash and burn, which happens a lot in amateur racing, and if something gets damaged it won’t cost an arm and leg to replace. That bike is very good even if you’re not racing but want a good lightweight bike that the components will last a very long time, and won’t cost an arm and a leg to purchase, and it might make the wife happier! While the bike is a bit porky at 20 pounds than some others, you could later lighten up the bike with a better wheelset.
Just noticed that R Groves above me mentioned a similar statement, but he is correct.
I used to race for about 10 years and got up to a CAT3 level, but no one was paying for my bikes, gear, or kit, I was footing the entire bill, The bike shop I raced out of gave us sale prices on anything we needed, that was the only break we got. While I did race 40 years ago when bikes were cheaper, bikes have way outpaced inflation, why? because frame materials are better? components are better? Try none of the above, it’s all about profit for shareholders these days, and as long as the market can bear it those prices will continue to rise. Trust me, there isn’t a bike made that comes even remotely close to the technology than the cheapest $6,000 motorcycle you can buy!
Kerry Irons says
Being a bit pedantic here, but good bikes don’t DAMPEN vibration, the vibrations are DAMPED . Dampening has everything to go with getting wet. At least that is what I was taught in engineering school.
Road Bike Rider says
Changed it to damped. Thanks.
Fred R says
Words change over the years, I thought from what I was taught years ago that damped relates to vibration reduction, while dampen pertains to lessening intensity or impact.
I was taught too many years ago that an engine is something that is powered by fuel, whereas a motor is electrical, but definitions of these types of things change, I like the older way because you can differentiate between one thing and another. This is why I like some British spellings like tyre instead of tire that we use for what is on a car, but a tire that we use has two different meanings depending on the context, but tyre makes it easier to differentiate between the two in written format.
Now bring back the word dampen and here in the USA it has two meanings, just like tire, it’s about the context in which the word is being used.
Russ Marx says
Bike fit is the most important thing. You can always upgrade everything else. My 1996 Waterford has had everything upgraded except the frame. A mix of Dura-ace, Ultragra, 105, Carbon, Ti., third set of wheels, a Terry Fly seat lasts about 4000 miles.
Dave Minden says
Just to add an ‘old-timer’ opinion, steel frames have pretty light weight, with the damping and flexing characteristics of carbon, and are sturdy and repairable. For a good steel ride you don’t pay any more than you do for carbon.
glenn A says
Don’t overlook finding a good used bike. Many cyclists upgrade for lots of reasons and have perfectly acceptable used bikes for sale. Pick up a solid used cycle. and maybe even have a cycle shop evaluate it prior to purchasing it. One thing to avoid is not buying the correct size bike frame and not knowing if the gearing is compatible with the terrain you will be riding. Ride it for a while and then when you find you are really into cycling and NEED a lighter frame, more responsive groupset, that is the time to consider buying a new upgrade.
glenn A says
Don’t overlook finding a good used bike. Many cyclists upgrade for lots of reasons and have perfectly acceptable used bikes for sale. Pick up a solid used cycle. and maybe even have a cycle shop evaluate it prior to purchasing it. One thing to avoid is not buying the correct size bike frame and not knowing if the gearing is compatible with the terrain you will be riding. Ride it for a while and then when you find you are really into cycling and NEED a lighter frame, more responsive group set, that is the time to consider buying a new upgrade.
Slittle says
Steel is real! Get a bIke with braze- ons and when the competition ebbs see the country.
Big Ring Bob says
If you haven’t committed to bike riding, get a good quality used bike (save at least half the original price in most cases). If it turns out you don’t get hooked on biking (I can’t imagine that would happen if you’re with the right people), you can sell it and get back most or all of your money. It will also let you become familiar with the different options to consider if you decide to commit.
Take the time to have the bike fitted to you. I like to use the expression, “I don’t ride my bike, I wear it!” A good fit is going to make your experience much more likely to introduce you to the joy of this sport. Being a runner, you appreicate the fit of the right shoe. The same with biking.
Graham says
I alway’s tell people starting to ride is use the bike you used for college or go for a few ride’s on a cheap or borrowed bike. You may not like cycling. Don’t take advice to start with an expensive bike.