Jim’s Tech Talk
By Jim Langley
There’s no other way to say it. Hot waxing chains is hot right now. Already this year I received the Event Gear Simplyfast hot wax I’m reviewing here, a hot waxing machine with wax from Silca (I provided a sneak peak back in February: Game-Changing New-Chain Cleaner & Waxer From Silca) and a press release from Finish Line about their new HALO range, which includes a hot wax.
I would have already tested the Silca system except I couldn’t get the Strip Chips or hot wax that goes with it. But I’ll do that sometime soon and tell you about it. And Finish Line promised that samples of their waxes are in the mail.
What’s Hot Waxing a Chain?
In case you’ve never heard the term, “hot waxing” or it’s also called “immersion waxing,” is an old chain lubrication technique that’s now being reborn. As far as I can remember – and maybe some of you have better memories and will be able to correct me – but I believe it goes back to the 1960s.
You can hot wax with a new chain, just out of the package or by removing the chain from your bike. But the chain must be very clean so chain cleaning is an important first step.
The wax must be melted and in a container the chain can fit in. Once the chain’s clean and dry and the wax is hot and fully liquid, the chain goes into the wax to soak a bit. When the chain is removed and the wax dries, all the links are coated inside and out with wax.
Why Hot Waxing is Making a Resurgence
There are riders – possibly some of you – who started hot waxing long ago and never gave up the practice. But, I have also heard from many riders over the years that said they tried it and gave up on it because of the hassle involved: cleaning the chain, melting the wax and coating the chain. Another issue is wax doesn’t hold up to rain as well as oil-based lubes.
Some who used to hot wax (and didn’t have issues riding in the rain) went to easier to apply drip wax lubes. White Lighting was one of the first. Now there are a lot more like Effetto Mariposa’s Flowerpower, which I recently wrote about. And another with great reviews is Squirt. With these drip waxes, you still need to start with a clean chain. But you’ll get similar benefits to hot wax with a smooth, clean and quiet drivetrain that stays clean too.
The thing is, that hot waxes, because they do a better job of coating the entire chain surface, can provide the most efficient drivetrain, saving energy and giving riders an advantage.
For example, hot waxes have achieved some impressive efficiency results from the leading lubricant tester Zero Friction Cycling. Which accounts for why they are now popular with racers looking for every edge – though there’s a good chance that racers would buy pre hot-waxed chains from the companies that sell them. Event Gear believes that will be their best seller.
The advantage of purchasing one of these super efficient chains is that the company does the chain cleaning and waxing ensuring it’s done to perfection. So you’ll get the maximum performance boost.
Another factor in the current popularity of hot waxing is that more chains come with quick links now. These make removing and reinstalling chains easier and some would say safer too.
My Simple Test
For all these reasons I decided to try hot waxing again with Simplyfast (Event Gear is currently working on a drip version but it’s not available yet). I wasn’t sure I’d notice a difference but my contact at Event Gear Eric Sampson convinced me I should give it a go. If the name sounds familiar, it should because he’s the guy behind the company Sampson Sports and we’ve favorably reviewed some of their products over the years: Sampson Stratics Carbon/Cro-Mo Pedals.
To test the Simplyfast wax, I went on two road rides – both with lots of climbing so that I would have to force the pedals a bit sitting and standing (about 4K feet of elevation gain).
I then decided to try a different test and I put the bike with the waxed chain on my trainer and went for a hilly ride in Zwift (a virtual reality cycling application). My Tacx Neo 2 is a smart trainer so it works like an ergometer and you can really feel the chain. On both the outdoor and indoor test, the Simplyfast wax felt smoother and quieter than my drip wax lubed chain. I can’t say if I was able to put out any more watts but Zero Friction Cycling has shown that it does provide gains.
The other advantage of hot waxing is that it makes for a drivetrain that stays cleaner than one lubed with petroleum based wet lubes. That means no grease tattoos when removing wheels or putting bikes in cars, etc. And more importantly, a cleaner drivetrain reduces wear and tear on your expensive drivetrain components, the crankset, cassette and derailleurs.
Event Gear’s Simplyfast
Simplyfast hot wax comes in a package of three blocks that total 300 grams of wax. Cost is $35. https://www.event-gear.com/simplyfast-chain-wax-hot-melt-style/
They say it’s impossible to accurately calculate how many chains you’ll be able to wax because it depends on the type of chains and how you do it. But, they estimate that on average you should be able to do at least 15 chains. Typically riders who hot wax, do a couple chains at a time so that they always have a clean one ready to go when it’s time to re-wax the one on the bike.
Event Gear says that the average mileage on a Simplyfast waxed chain should be about 250 miles – though some riders are reporting up to 500 miles. Which means that for the $35, you should get at least 3,750 miles of smooth, quiet, clean and efficient pedaling.
Simplyfast Specs
Simplyfast is claimed to be the cleanest hot wax on the market. It is non-toxic, biodegradable, and has no PFAS, teflons (PTFE) or metals. It also has no petroleum or petroleum based oils, paraffins or any particulates that also create pollutants.
It’s designed to provide a harder coating than paraffin type waxes on the inside and outside of the chain and on the rollers. This improves pedaling efficiency, sheds water and prevents dirt and other contaminants from embedding in the chain. Event Gear says it’s great for all types of riding from road to gravel and mountain biking and it provides excellent performance under higher loads such as for racers and even e-bikes on which the motors really test drivetrains.
Application
To hot wax my chain, I used a Crock-Pot to melt the wax. It was large enough to hold the chain. Plus it was the right size for the melted wax to be deep enough to cover the chain once it was coiled and flat. With the Crock-Pot on the high setting it took about 30 minutes for the wax blocks to fully melt. Note that some companies provide hot waxes in sous vide bags (Silca and Finish Line have these). So you don’t need a Crock-Pot, you just put the bag in boiling water to melt the wax and pop the chain in.
In the meantime I started cleaning the chain while it was on the bike with a rag soaked with some citrus-based degreaser. I then removed the quick link and chain and cleaned them using degreasers in a jar with a lid. This lets you soak the chain and shake it in the jar to move the links around and loosen up any dirt, grit and grime. The reason I cleaned it first on the bike was so that the degreaser in the jar would stay a little cleaner since I wanted to reuse it.
Waxing the chain is as simple as putting it into the Crock-Pot, stirring it around a bit, flipping it over and repeating on the other side and then pulling it slowly out so that the links have every chance to get fully coated. I spent about 5 minutes or a little more on this. Note that you don’t wax the quick link because it’ll make it difficult to install.
I lay the chain down on a paper towel to dry. That was a mistake because the paper stuck to the chain but it didn’t make much of a mess. Still, Eric said it would have been better to hang it on a nail with a piece of newspaper beneath to catch any drips.
The just hot-waxed chain was pretty interesting to install on the bike. The wax binds all the links together. You can break them free by manipulating them by hand or by putting the chain on the chainring a few times. But I decided to just try installing the chain which wasn’t too difficult. Event Gear recommends pedaling for about 20 minutes to break in the chain.
As I already mentioned, Simplyfirst has worked really well so far and it does feel smoother and has remained clean over 67 miles of riding. I’ll be riding it more. The used hot wax dries in the Crock-Pot so it will be easy to melt it again and re-wax the chain when it’s time.
Watch the Entire Hot Waxing Process
Here’s the whole process for your viewing pleasure. After watching my mistakes, you hot-waxing wizards be sure to weigh in with your advice and tips, and please share your favorite hot wax and tools you use. If you’re a rider who gave up on hot waxing or who doesn’t think wax makes a good chain lube, please share your thoughts too so we have both points of view. Thanks!
Jim Langley is RBR’s Technical Editor. A pro mechanic & cycling writer for more than 40 years, he’s the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop in the RBR eBookstore. Tune in to Jim’s popular YouTube channel for wheel building & bike repair how-to’s. Jim’s also known for his cycling streak that ended in February 2022 with a total of 10,269 consecutive daily rides (28 years, 1 month and 11 days of never missing a ride). Click to read Jim’s full bio.
I waxed chains briefly in the 1970’s. Very clean but way too much work for for a utility cyclist. Nowadays, I wipe the chain on the bike with an old sock and drip lube. It helps that I don’t ride any bikes w more than a 9 speed cassette, so the clearance is more forgiving. Also use friction shifers.
Prior to converting to wax my lube routine was
1. Remove the chain and de-grunge it with petrol
2. Stick it in a pot of detergent and boil it up to get it super clean
3. Dry it in the oven
4. Oil each link with Chain-L No. 5 (which I found out about from this newsletter)
This lasted around 1,000 kms, or about a month for me then.
I don’t do that any more: I’ve been waxing for several years.
Initially I used candlewax with a bit of Teflon and a bit of nasty black molybdenum disulphide added. Now I just use candlewax. I buy candles and melt them!
I find this lasts about 250 kms, noting that these days I don’t start out in the rain.
I have two chains for each bike, which I swap between, waxing the dead one so as to be ready for the next change. Cleaning is just a matter of sloshing the dead chain in hot detergent, then, after measuring wear, it’s into the hot wax in the rice cooker.
I measure chain wear every lube, and replace when stretch gets to 0.5%.
I really should double check my records, but my impression is that chain life has increased.
No hassle, wouldn’t go back.
Hey, I have a crock pot exactly like that one! Love it, but my wife would absolutely KILL me if she caught me cooking a bike chain in it…… Back on topic, I’ve had great luck with Park’s chain cleaning tool and a silicon dry lube – easy peasy. Can’t quite see that waxing is worth the effort.
That’s great Gary. I bought mine in 1972 so you’ve got a classic there! My wife prefers the new pressure cookers.
Thanks for the comment and the tips!
Jim
I have recently started using hot waxing. The benefits that attracted me were the improved drivetrain longevity and the cleaner chain. I don’t find that the melting and waxing process are a problem — I think the biggest issue is having to remove the chain from the bike. A lot of quick links are single-use only and are not reliable if re-used. The first time I tried waxing I used a relatively new chain on a new bike which had only 150 miles on it. I thought that would be new enough that it would be worth cleaning it and beginning the waxing process. Cleaning the chain proved to be far more difficult than I had anticipated, as dirt really works its way into the chain and is very difficult to remove. It took about 3 liters of solvent to get the chain clean enough to wax, and even then it was not perfect. I’ll never try this with a used chain again.
Once the chain was waxed, I reinstalled it with its original quick link. The instant I applied power to the pedals, the quick link broke. I just don’t think they are reliable for reuse — or, at least, the SRAM link that came with the chain wasn’t. There are quick links available that are said to be reusable, and those are what I will be using in the future.
The performance of the waxed chain is OK but nothing special. I think that is because it was used and cleaned before waxing. After only around 150 milies or less, the chain is making some mild noise — not a squeaking or grinding, but just what I’d call a normal sound indicating it needs lubricant. I’m going to wax it again, but I need to get some reusable links before I remove it from the bike. (And that’s one of the disadvantages of chain waxing. With drip lubes, I could clean the chain on the bike using a chain cleaner, then drip the lube on. I never had to remove the chain until it needed replacement.)
For all future chains, I plan to clean and degrease them before the intial waxing and installation. I’m hoping that will lead to a quieter and longer-lasting installation, and give me the full benefits of hot wax lubrication.
I’ll never go back to regular lubes. I started waxing two years ago and it is so much easier. I know it sounds like a hassle but once you have the system set up, it’s a lot easier than wiping down your chain and relubing after every ride or two. My chains last so much longer too. I rotate five chains and wax them all at once and then I’m set up for another four to five weeks of riding. One of the best bike “upgrades” I’ve ever made.
So how many miles is that per chain ??
I tried Pedros Ice Lube – wet lube wax, years ago. I hated it bc it shed dried wax flakes all over the rear derailleur pulley wheels and other areas on both derailleurs and chain stay.
Messy – to say the least and a big jasdle to clean that gummy gunk. I wonder if hot immersion waxing is really any different – in terms of shedding dandruff-like wax bits everywhere?
Here are my notes and links on chain waxing.
https://rneher-igel.github.io/Neher/Docs/Bicycle-Chain-Waxing/
I’ve read (and re-read) the Zero Friction website & it seems like hot wax advertising for their on-line store. Their “data” is at great odds with real world riding experiences, and their protocol favors wax lubes (by grossly limiting shifts which tend to squeeze wax lube from pins/rollers). Their “data” indicates only 500km of dry riding would wear out a chain using Boeshield T-9 regularly??? Or their claim that using one of several well-known lubes vs hot wax would cost $US thousands in worn-out chains/cassettes/rings over just 6100mi (10k km) of dry road cycling????
Truth is most cyclists are lazy about bike maintenance. Even a quick chain lube & wipe down is the practical limit of their attention. Hot wax is just not worth the hassle (regular chain removal/cleaning/cooking)/hanging/manipulation (“pedaling to break-in”) before re-installing) & expense (like $35 in Simplyfast for 3750mi riding?). Especially with removable links for 11/12sp chains being more delicate (many recommended for single use only). Even the best bike mechanics in my area do not hot wax their own chains (although their shops offer the service commercially).
I maintain a stable of my family’s 9 bikes. For dry lubing, I start with a new chain, one initial clean/dry, and then do regular wipe downs & applications of good dry drip lube. On my main roadie I’m presently trying Squirt every 150-200mi (typical rural Midwest roads) starting with 105 chain & new cassette. Still smooth quiet running at >4,200mi with <100mi per application (less if it rained) & mid-level chains last >3,500mi. But it is a bit dirtier than good commercial wet lubes.
Video discussing — Understanding the INSANE Zero Friction Cycling Test Data!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xu_Q0cqoKeY
Sheldon Brown had the ultimate chain lube system way back when:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
I don’t think anyone is going to be doing that on a regular basis!!
Thanks for reminding me of that great gag Mark. RIP Sheldon we miss you!!
Jim
Start with new chain in wax pot. Never further clean chain, other than wiping it off before rewaxing.
500 miles between re-waxing, with some riding in rain.
Benefit is not wax on outside of chain, but inside of the links.
Drip wax not equal, not close.
Main benefit is not performance or cleaniness, but decreased drivetrain wear, validated by tests.
Tests show formulas score just marginly better than plain paraffin.
Never wax two chains to have one instantly ready. No need.
Never stir molten wax, spill could be dangerous; let chain simmer 20 minutes.
Never break stiff waxed chain links, or pedal “about 20 minutes to break in the chain” Lift rear wheel and spin a couple of times.
Where’s the trouble? Not for me; see above.
I’ve been using Silca’s Super Secret (SSS) for several years. I clean the new chain thoroughly, then dunk it in the SSS jar. About every 150-250 miles, I re-wax using the SSS drip lube. Takes about 5 minutes.
YMMV, but I bought a bike a year ago with an Ultegra chain. Using the above method, I have over 7,000 miles on the chain, with no appreciable wear (measured using two different Park tools and a pair of Vernier calipers). Previously, using a variety of expensive, petroleum based lubes, I’d be lucky to get 5,000 miles on a chain. To me, waxing is well worth the incremental hassle, if any.
I also have Silca’s hot wax system but haven’t used it yet. I have a stock of SSS since I buy it during Silca’s periodic sales. Oh… and I’ve ridden using it in wet conditions, as recently as two weeks ago in a century during which it rained/poured constantly. Personally, I found it much better than oil-based lubes in the rain, although this was road cycling. I can’t speak for off-road.
Hi DL,
In the comment right above your comment John says he has 7,000 miles so far on his Ultegra chain and it shows no sign of wear in 1 year so far. That suggests he’s going to get a lot more out of that chain.
Cheers,
Jim
Until I read about the benefits of waxing a chain, I did what everyone else did: lube the chain every 200 miles or so, wipe the chain before every ride, and replace it when the wear was just over .5 percent. That approach got me 1,500 to 3,000 miles per chain. One outlying chain lasted 5,000 miles.
In the 1980s I hot waxed my chain for a while, but I found that it was too much work. Flash forward 40 years and I find that waxing is all the rage. I like to experiment to test the claims and justify the work, so I am.
My big idea is to get 80 percent of the benefit of waxing my chain with 10 percent of the work by going easy on the cleaning and using wet wax so as not to burn down the house. The initial cleaning involved scraping the gunk from the drive train, degreasing a new chain with WD40, letting the chain dry., installing the chain, and applying the wet wax. After that the chain is wiped after every ride, new wax is applied every 200 miles or so, and the chain is replaced at .5 percent of wear. I ride three bikes in rotation, so a lot of riding is needed to see the results.
So far, the chain still has black residue, but the shade is turning lighter. When I handle the chain, my hands still get black, but the residue comes off much more easily, and what I feel is much slicker. The chain also runs much more smoothly. My hope is that the black residue will turn to a pleasing shade of gray and I will get more miles per chain with less effort. Since I keep track of all this by miles, I should have some decent results for my experiment in a year or two.
In the meantime, with no chance of riding in the Tour de France, I would rather ride than clean.
Thanks readers for all the excellent tips, advice and recommendations on chain waxing!
Jim Langley
Originally waxed chains back in the 70’s. Started waxing again about 7 years ago. I ride between 6,000 and 8,000 miles per year. Generally, don’t start a ride in the rain. Power averages about 140 watts on most rides. Max power in a sprint is just south of 800 watts. Mostly endurance training. with multiple Century plus rides during the year.
I change my chain about twice a year using a gauge to measure stretch. I clean a new chain with a citrus cleaner, then Dawn soap, and after using water on the chain in those steps, use a denatured alcohol soak to de-water the chain completely, then let the alcohol evaporate.
Once the chain is cleaned and dried, I use a hot paraffin soak, agitating the chain in the liquid solution until I no longer see any air bubbles coming out of the links, remove the chain and cool it. Wipe the chain with a microfiber towel and install.
Every week or so (150 – 250 miles) I wash the chain on the bike with a Dawn soap solution using a soft brush, let the chain dry thoroughly (leave the bike in the sun for 30 minutes or so) and apply Squirt Chain Lube liberally and let it dry again. Once a month or so, I check the chain for wear and replace when needed.
I don’t have any real data that says this extends the life of a chain or is more efficient with the drivetrain. I do get a quiet, smooth ride. I can handle my chain with bare hands when working on the bike or changing tires and may have some road grime that rinses off with water from my bottle.
The plus for me is a chain that stays clean. Initial steps take about two hours, but I’m cleaning the wheels, the spokes, the derailleurs, and the nooks and crannies of the rest of the bike for a lot of that time so it’s not wasted while the chain is soaking/drying/cooling in the various steps.