By Rick Schultz
While I am waiting for parts, two new tube technologies arrived to test.
- Tubolito – https://www.tubolito.com/en/produkt-kategorie/road-en/
- Revoloop – https://revoloop.com/racer-cyclocross/
These are the latest highest-tech tubes currently available. As robust as a butyl tube but at 23g, 38g (Tubolito) and 25g, 30g, 39g (Revoloop). Due to their extremely small size and weight, they easily pack away in your bike bag. Available for mountain bikes, road, gravel / cyclocross, BMX and city / touring applications.
Advantages
- Small size
- Very lightweight
- Great ride feel
Three main drawbacks
- High price
- You will need a special flat/fix repair kit if you get a flat
- To only be used on disc brake bikes (they are heat sensitive)
To compare, here are comparable butyl and latex tubes. Of course, their weight depends on:
- length of the valve stem (48mm, 60mm, etc.),
- size of the tube (20mm, 25mm, 28mm, 40mm, etc.) and
- wall thickness of the tube.
Butyl is more robust than latex, which should only be used for racing. The Tubolito and Revoloop are advertised to be as robust as butyl but have their own limitations.
Butyl – Racing 70g-100g, Regular 128g to over 200g
Latex – Racing 60g – 80g, Great ride but reportedly more fragile.
But first, I needed to prep the rims and Hutchinson tubeless tires by cleaning up all the old latex sealant. I’ve been using Squirt tire sealant in one tire and Hutchinson Protect Air sealant in the other.
After removing the tires, I saw absolutely no corrosion, which can be a problem in Shimano wheels using certain brands of tire sealants. Rest assured, using Squirt or Hutchinson, you don’t need to worry about corrosion. I was able to clean up the old sealant with a couple paper towels and quickly and easily install the new tubes (photos below).
Look what finally arrived!
Got the shifters and calipers, front, and rear derailleurs! Installed the wheels but, before installing the rear derailleur, let’s check the hanger alignment. Just as I thought, it’s bent… all fixed now, all even.
After aligning the rear derailleur hanger, time to install the front and rear derailleurs.
Shifters installed and derailleur cables run. Loosely hooked up FD and RD.
Next, definitely the hardest part of this build…the hydraulic disc brake system. The installation described in Shimano’s ULTEGRA R8050 series dealer’s manual literally runs from page 70 through page 108. Lots of reading.
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/R8050/DM-R8050-04-ENG.pdf
Here is where the more intricate details need to be understood. Out of the box, installing a 160mm spec brake caliper on a 160mm Dura-Ace rotor, there was a problem. It didn’t fit so, what was needed was to reverse the front disc brake mount. Once reversed, I used some thread locker to make sure the mount stays in place. Oh, and don’t forget to remove the bolt fixing pin first (C) in diagram above, and then don’t forget to replace it.
Front mount installed. But leave the bolts loose so can center after front wheel installed.
Next, I went to install the rear caliper. Turns out the length of the caliper mounting is extremely critical. Found this piece of information on page 101. This is because there is a locking snap that fits over the top of the mounting bolt, keeping it from coming off the frame.
Two caliper mounting bolts were supplied, but were way too long. Here is where I had to do some measuring and some math. Had to figure out two options — one with a supplied washer, the other without the washer. Half the drawings show the washer, the other half don’t. So, I’m not going to use the washers, my thought is that the brake caliper will be held more securely to the mount using just the bolt by itself.
- No added aluminum washers, so I need 2 mounting bolts 10.5mm (23.5mm-13mm) shorter = 38.5mm – 10.5mm = 28.0mm
- Double checking using dial caliper, the frame thickness is 15mm, so 28mm is what has been ordered.
It’s actually starting to look like a bicycle now!
I am trying the Tubolito tubes and found some from Italy that were reasonably priced and arrived in 3 days via Fedex. The size and weight make them a great option for a spare even if you don’t run them normally. I am using them with 35 mm Rene Herse tires so end up with a relatively light tire tube that offers a very nice ride. Have added air once in 2 months, although every couple of weeks might be better.
I have seen videos using Flex Seal tape for tube repair. I wonder if it would work on these tubes.
Tubolito tubes come in two variations: one for disc brakes AND one for rim brakes. I’ve made extensive use of the former on all my bikes and they are great. One trick, however, the valve core screws into a seperate piece that then screws into the tube. That’s where you can get leaks. I crazy glue the valve core “holder” piece – valve core can still be removed – into the tube. No more leaks. Sometimes, when you inflate the tire, the action of the air pump can turn that valve core piece and thus the leaks. Once glued in place that doesn’t happen.
I don’t understand the comment about latex tubes should only be used for racing and are more fragile. Latex tubes are more puncture resistant than butyl tubes and I have found they offer a slight improvement in ride quality. Downside is that latex does lose air and they need to be pumped up before each ride.
I agree, Neal. I once rode over a nail and it went straight into the tire but did not pop the latex tube. I know I was super lucky that day but still, butyl doesn’t stretch like that. And, I am pretty sure I feel more compliance and smoothness on latex tubes. According to HED, latex tubes are the fastest, too. The only negative might be that over a long period of time – as in many years – latex might be more prone to break down/crack inside the tire.. I’ve seen butyl tubes over 50 years old still holding air just fine..
Thanks,
Jim
My experience has been that latex tubes are more fragile not less. Whenever I use latex tubes my flats when up 3-fold! The advertising showing a latex tube being stretched over a piece of glass only works without air in the tube, once that tube is inflated to 100 psi or so, it doesn’t stretch, and anything can pierce it easily.
latex tubes are faster but by only 1 watt, you would never notice the speed unless you were racing a 100 miles, then it could be the deference between winning and losing by minute or so. But if you don’t race you will never notice or feel the 1-watt savings. What you will feel is a slightly more comfortable ride, and could mistake that for speed.
Most of the Tubolito tubes have fixed valve stems.
Not the ones I’ve been using. They have a cylinder that the valve core screws into and then that set up screws into the stem that’s part of the tube.
One thing to point out is the fact that patching the Tubilto tubes is essentially unreliable at best – and that IMO is their fatal flaw. I’ve used all versions of the Flex patches, cleaning the punctured ares thoroughly, and THEY ALL FAILED…some a week or two later, and some maybe six weeks later, but the failure rate is 100%. And I’m talking seven punctures total. I still carry new ones in my saddle bags (because of the weight), FWIW, I’m a light rider, and my preferred tire inflation is between 60 and 90 PSI.
What tires are you using?
I recently purchased a pair of Schwalbe Aerothan thermoplastic tubes to try. $30 each at Bike Tires Direct, free shipping.
Pluses-Also sized small, easy to install. Require less air and hold it longer. Seem to roll faster than normal rubber tubes.
Minuses- I did encounter a flat, but to be fair, it was caused by a contractor type staple. I did patch it with a normal Schwalbe self stick patch and thus far it’s holding air. At below freezing temperatures I notice a little sketchiness on downhill cornering above 25mph (which is why I’ll wait until spring to reinstall the tube).