By Rick Schultz
While I am waiting for parts, two new tube technologies arrived to test.
- Tubolito – https://www.tubolito.com/en/produkt-kategorie/road-en/
- Revoloop – https://revoloop.com/racer-cyclocross/
These are the latest highest-tech tubes currently available. As robust as a butyl tube but at 23g, 38g (Tubolito) and 25g, 30g, 39g (Revoloop). Due to their extremely small size and weight, they easily pack away in your bike bag. Available for mountain bikes, road, gravel / cyclocross, BMX and city / touring applications.
- Small size
- Very lightweight
- Great ride feel
Three main drawbacks
- High price
- You will need a special flat/fix repair kit if you get a flat
- To only be used on disc brake bikes (they are heat sensitive)
To compare, here are comparable butyl and latex tubes. Of course, their weight depends on:
- length of the valve stem (48mm, 60mm, etc.),
- size of the tube (20mm, 25mm, 28mm, 40mm, etc.) and
- wall thickness of the tube.
Butyl is more robust than latex, which should only be used for racing. The Tubolito and Revoloop are advertised to be as robust as butyl but have their own limitations.
Butyl – Racing 70g-100g, Regular 128g to over 200g
Latex – Racing 60g – 80g, Great ride but reportedly more fragile.
But first, I needed to prep the rims and Hutchinson tubeless tires by cleaning up all the old latex sealant. I’ve been using Squirt tire sealant in one tire and Hutchinson Protect Air sealant in the other.
After removing the tires, I saw absolutely no corrosion, which can be a problem in Shimano wheels using certain brands of tire sealants. Rest assured, using Squirt or Hutchinson, you don’t need to worry about corrosion. I was able to clean up the old sealant with a couple paper towels and quickly and easily install the new tubes (photos below).
Look what finally arrived!
Got the shifters and calipers, front, and rear derailleurs! Installed the wheels but, before installing the rear derailleur, let’s check the hanger alignment. Just as I thought, it’s bent… all fixed now, all even.
After aligning the rear derailleur hanger, time to install the front and rear derailleurs.
Shifters installed and derailleur cables run. Loosely hooked up FD and RD.
Next, definitely the hardest part of this build…the hydraulic disc brake system. The installation described in Shimano’s ULTEGRA R8050 series dealer’s manual literally runs from page 70 through page 108. Lots of reading.
Here is where the more intricate details need to be understood. Out of the box, installing a 160mm spec brake caliper on a 160mm Dura-Ace rotor, there was a problem. It didn’t fit so, what was needed was to reverse the front disc brake mount. Once reversed, I used some thread locker to make sure the mount stays in place. Oh, and don’t forget to remove the bolt fixing pin first (C) in diagram above, and then don’t forget to replace it.
Front mount installed. But leave the bolts loose so can center after front wheel installed.
Next, I went to install the rear caliper. Turns out the length of the caliper mounting is extremely critical. Found this piece of information on page 101. This is because there is a locking snap that fits over the top of the mounting bolt, keeping it from coming off the frame.
Two caliper mounting bolts were supplied, but were way too long. Here is where I had to do some measuring and some math. Had to figure out two options — one with a supplied washer, the other without the washer. Half the drawings show the washer, the other half don’t. So, I’m not going to use the washers, my thought is that the brake caliper will be held more securely to the mount using just the bolt by itself.
- No added aluminum washers, so I need 2 mounting bolts 10.5mm (23.5mm-13mm) shorter = 38.5mm – 10.5mm = 28.0mm
- Double checking using dial caliper, the frame thickness is 15mm, so 28mm is what has been ordered.
It’s actually starting to look like a bicycle now!