Fixing a Flat Without Removing the Wheel
Jim’s Tech Talk
By Jim Langley
This is a quick tip, which is in response to a recent comment from a reader named “Larry.” And the interesting part is that the answer comes from another reader’s comment.
Larry was replying to Stan Purdum’s recent column about e-bikes and whether they’re more, less or as comfortable as regular road bikes. But Larry mentioned something else about e-bikes I’ve heard before; a criticism. Stan’s column on e-bikes is here: Is an ebike more comfortable than a regular bike?
Larry said,
“With hub-drive e-bikes [editor’s note: usually these have motors in the wheel(s)] – G*d help you if you have a rear tire go flat. It takes an hour – even if you have the tools and spare tube.”
The issue Larry is talking about is having to deal with the way the hub motor wheels needs to be attached to the frame of the bicycle. It makes it more difficult to remove and install the wheel, sometimes much more difficult since you need to deal with the wiring harness, axle nuts, spacers, etc.
The Solution
I was actually ready to reply to Larry’s comment when a reader named Frank Roberts stole my thunder. He was commenting on Lars Hundley’s recent article about flat tires. That piece is here: Readers, Do You Have a Flat Tire Approach That Works Well For You?
What Frank recommends is exactly what I was going to say, so I’ll give him the honors:
“There is a very old method of fixing most flats. I can fix about 75% of all flats without ever taking off the wheel. A neighbor of mine when I was 8 years old taught me this trick.
First, without taking the wheel off the bike, try to find where on the tire the sharp item caused the puncture. If you find the hole or the item, simply remove about half of the tire bead around one side of the wheel with the hole in the center of that half.
Next, pull out about a fourth of the tube with the hole in the center of that fourth, buff the area of the hole with the sandpaper in the patch kit to prepare it. Then apply the glue and let it dry for about 3 to 5 minutes (the glue will go from shiny to dull matte).
Then, apply the patch (be sure to get it over the hole!), and press the patch on between your thumb and finger as hard as you can for 60 seconds. Also, check to make sure the edges are sealed tight; if not repress that area, and you’re done.
Now, let the tube set for a minute or so while you check the inside of the tire for anything poking through. Use a rag to snag it or your glove if you’re wearing them because by using your fingers you could get cut by the object. Remove anything sharp in the tire and now put the tube and tire back on the wheel. You can then inflate the tire and ride away.”
A Couple More Tips for This Technique
Frank didn’t explain how to remove and install the tire with the wheel still on the bike. So I’ll add that on some bikes you can flip them upside down to be able to work on the wheel without the bike flopping around.
Another way to do it is to find a tree with a low branch. By resting the tip of the saddle on the branch, the tree will work like a repair stand holding your bike off the ground.
The bike frame will definitely get in the way but it’s not that difficult to fix the tire just as you would with the wheel off the bike. You could even inflate the tube while it’s on the bike and run it through a pan of water to find a leak if you had to.
Regarding the process of patching a tube, in case you’ve never done it, here’s a great video on that from Park Tool.
Many thanks to Larry and Frank for their helpful comments!
Jim Langley is RBR’s Technical Editor. A pro mechanic & cycling writer for more than 40 years, he’s the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop in the RBR eBookstore. Tune in to Jim’s popular YouTube channel for wheel building & bike repair how-to’s. Jim’s also known for his cycling streak that ended in February 2022 with a total of 10,269 consecutive daily rides (28 years, 1 month and 11 days of never missing a ride). Click to read Jim’s full bio.
Is there is a tubeless option for those type of wheels??
tubeless option, you would have to do it yourself and hope it worked
or maybe if the bike cost $4000 it might come with tubeless
but then it also would probably be mid drive
way easier to get wheels off etc like a normal bike
wle
i’m larry and yes you can try to pull the tube out and patch it
unless.
1. there is more than 1 hole
2. you can;t find the leak
3. anything is wet
4. you can;t lie on the ground for 20 minutes
5. something in the wheel or tire is wrong – sharp edges, glass you can;t feel, rim tape issues
self stick patches would make it a bit faster, though they may fail or not last long
wle
Stick on patches don’t work well anymore, I used them exclusively back in the mid 90’s to the early or mid 2000’s and they would stick for the life of the tube, not anymore. I sent an E-mail to Park about why their self-stick patches were not working anymore, they claimed the manufactures of butyl tubes changed the butyl formula, I’m guessing due to more recycled material being used? I obviously went back to Rema glue on patches.
A forum I was on claimed that the Lezyne stick-on patches work but only for a day or two, the Park version won’t last 2 minutes!!
I noticed with the Park stick-on patches that they use to tear the tube if I tried to remove the patch, now they just come off. I haven’t tried the Lezyne patches but for a day or two of repair it’s not worth it. I don’t throw out tubes just because they got a hole, I patch them and keep riding, a patch cost 10 cents, tubes are now $15 and up for decent ones like Schwalbe or Specialized who have the best made Presta valves you can get from any tube maker.
One comment from Mike said Rema patches should not be ridden on as soon as they are applied, this is NOT true, I have patched many tubes on the side of the road with Rema patches and other than waiting a minute before adding pressure, I just took off on them and never had one fail. Rema use vulcanization, not a self-stick patch like TPU tubes use that waiting 24 hours is a good idea, vulcanization does not need a set up time.
Rema patches shouldn’t be applied and then ridden right away. It takes time (days) for the patch to cure, else they won’t adhere properly and will ultimately leak. I have a first generation Orbea Gain. Removing the rear wheel is a bit more involved (nutted axle and connector that has to be unplugged) than with the new design but is not that difficult.
Hi Mike,
Actually, Rema patches are self-vulcanizing. Most glue-type bicycle patch kits are.
That means that as long as you let the glue dry BEFORE you apply the Rema patch, the patch will self vulcanize as soon as it is pressed onto the tube.
You do not have to wait – your patch is ready to go as soon as it is applied. Since you got the idea you have to wait, my best guess is that you didn’t know you MUST wait for the glue to dry BEFORE putting patches on. This only takes a few minutes.
Just wanted to explain so no one gets the wrong idea, If applied correctly, the patch is ready immediately.
Jim
Well Jim, Jobst Brandt said otherwise: https://yarchive.net/bike/inner_tube_patching.html. There’s a similar article on Sheldonbrown.com and was part of the old rec.bicycles faq.
His proof was that even if you sanded the patch area and let the glue properly dry, and did everything right, you can easily peel off the patch shortly after you apply it. If it sets for a few days, you can’t. He recommends using a spare tube rather than riding the freshly patched tube. Also, there is no true vulcanizing going on. The whole thing is rather moot anyways, because if you pull out that tube of glue that’s been sitting in your wedge pack, it’ll probably be dried up. Happened to me years ago and I no longer carry glue and Rema patches on the bike, but I do carry 2 spare tubes and glueless patches in case the spare tubes flat.
The fact that you can pull the patch off Mike, doesn’t negate the fact that the vulvanization has begun and that the puncture is sealed – as long as you covered the hole. I’m a bit surprised that my late friend Jobst and late colleague at Bicycling Magazine Sheldon thought this was an issue. It’s too bad I can’t still talk to them about such things.
Also, the glue will last the longest if you roll up the metal tube to get the air out. It’s the air that dries the glue.
Re: Rema patches testimonial: I saw an enormous Rema patch used to patch a city bus in Amsterdam – about 36” in diameter but identical to a bike tube patch otherwise. The bus had a rubber accordion type boot between its 2 halves so it could turn corners. As the boot opened, the Rema patch was revealed.
Flatout is a goo like Slime that you put in the tube. I have found it completely reseals holes and fixes leaks. I have used it for years on my e-bike without a flat. Before that I had them monthly, even with Schwalbe Marathons. You can find reviews at Area13 and elsewhere.
Tubes of glue are becoming very difficult to find in bike stores.
All they have are the self-adhesive patches.
I have been looking for a year to find a store that still has tubes of glue for sale.
Amazon sells glue.
Jane
Another option for hanging the bike — if you’re on a quiet road — is using a mailbox — just open the door and stick the nose of the saddle in. A little wobbly but usualy better than the alternative.
A friend who has an e-bike told me about open-ended tubes: https://gaadi.de/en/. Rather than forming a complete circle, they are straight, with blocked-off ends. So you don’t have to take the wheel off to replace the tube.
Thanks everybody for this discussion. Nice to have the info about the Park Tools self stick patches and the changes impacting them. They had always worked good for me 10 years or so ago.