I'm confused. For years I've used Greg LeMond's formula of multiplying crotch-to-floor distance by 0.883 to get saddle height,as measured from the center of the crank axle to the top of the saddle.  My local bike shop used a goniometer (like a big protractor) to measure my knee angle at bottom dead center. Then they recommended a 1 cm increase in saddle height to achieve Andy Pruitt's suggested 30-degree knee bend.  I'm concerned, though, because it's obvious that using the goniometer requires skill. Misaligning the tool could easily cause an incorrect reading.  So who should I trust, Greg or the goniometer? 

I notice that lots of riders have their handlebar height much lower than their saddle height. What's the right way to determine this relationship? 

My new bike is great, except that the reach to the handlebar is excessive. I know I could put on a shorter stem, but I don't want to reduce the present 100 mm for aesthetic reasons. How can I get the brake hoods closer? 

Last year I completed five double centuries. This year I want to try using aero bars. How do I set them up for these long rides?

I just paid for a pro bike fit at the local shop. They raised my saddle 1.5 inches. Now my knees feel better but my butt hurts. It's chafed and my crotch is sore. What should I do?

My Achilles tendon gets aggravated, apparently by my pedaling style. If I pedal with my heel just slightly lower than normal on the power part of the stroke, it doesn't hurt. Can you suggest how to keep my heel at this "ideal" pain-free level? 

John Cobb was Lance Armstrong’s aerodynamics consultant for his first five Tour de France victories. At conferences, Cobb disdained PowerPoint presentations in favor of drawing artful pictures on an easel to illustrate his points. Here are nine you can use.

I know that frame size is important when selecting a new bike, but how concerned about it should I be? For example, if I think that 59 cm is my best fit, should I not buy a bike that only comes in even sizes? 

I've read that different frame geometries suit different body shapes or riding styles (e.g., LeMond's long top tubes or Gios's short top tubes). But then I see that pros are mostly riding stock frames from their sponsor.  So, how much difference can a bike's geometry make? Presumably, the pros have their fit dialed in to maximize performance, but if they can get that kind of fit on a LeMond one year and a Colnago the next, why do the guys at the bike shop make a big deal out of which frames have a better geometry for my body shape?

I'm 5-foot-11, 250 pounds with a short torso. Every bike I?ve owned has had an excessive reach to the handlebar. I've played around with different stems to no avail. Where can I get a bike that fits my body type? 

I'm 63 and ride 150 miles a week, often with a fast group of younger riders. I get a perverse delight in staying with the young bucks and even making them hurt on occasion. But they still haven't accepted me completely, probably because I was riding an early '80s steel bike with friction shifting and exposed brake cables.  So, I bought a new bike with what the shop called a "pro position" -- handlebar 3 inches lower than the saddle. Now I've developed excruciating hand pain. A local coach suggested that I need to raise the bar, but I want to look like I know what I'm doing out there. What do you think?