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Quick Tips


Each issue of the free RBR Newsletter is geared toward helping you ride better and enjoy cycling more. Often, our tips inspire subscribers to send theirs. Here's a collection, along with other helpful news you can use.
 

Go to page 2
See more fantastic feedback at Best of 'Your Turn!'

 

  • Road bike sizing is very easy: As a general rule, take your pants inseam length, convert inches to centimeters by multiplying by 2.54, then multiply that number by 0.7. Round to the nearest cm. That's the size that should fit you fine. -- Anne
     

  • To remove the slotted screws in Look cleats when they've become too worn for a screwdriver to turn, use a Dremel moto-tool equipped with a cut-off wheel. Just spin it up (while wearing eye protection), and the wheel will allow you to deepen worn screw slots. After this, it's a snap to properly (and safely!) unseat the screws. -- Ken T.
     

  • Never ride behind another rider when using your aerobars (in a paceline or whatever). Use aerobars only when in front or riding by yourself. I took my attention away for a second, and when I glanced down I could see I was going to hit the front rider's rear wheel. It all happened so quickly. I didn't have time to get off the aerobars and use my brakes. Consequently, I touched the rear wheel and was thrown off balance and crashed. Don't make the same mistake! -- Kay J.
     

  • If you lube your chain like this every 300 miles, you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain. Although no lube is "perfect," in my opinion ProLink is the best compromise.

1.  Wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys and chainrings clean with a rag.

2.
  Drip on lube while turning the chain forward so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and side plates.

3.  Run through all the gears several times, front and back.

4.  Wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys and chainrings clean with a rag.

5.
  Repeat 2-4 if the chain was really dirty.

6.  Let the bike sit overnight before riding. -- Kerry I.

  • When lubing a chain, here's a trick I've used for years: Mark a chain link with brightly colored nail polish and start lubing at that link to keep track of where you are in the process. Works great and lasts quite a while. -- Ironmike
     

  • To see a cool way to mount a frame pump, click here.

  • The usual argument against CO2 cartridges is the cost. Well, not really -- if you buy them in the paint ball section at Wal-Mart and use a C02 pump. Wal-Mart sells cartridges for about $8 for 15. Can't beat that! -- Mark C.
     

  • To treat saddle sores, try an OTC anti-fungal powder called Zeasorb-AF. It was recommended by my pharmacist and has promptly cleared up sores for me. -- Jules Z.

     

  • For cold therapy on a sore knee or muscle, freeze one part rubbing alcohol with two parts water in a large, strong zip-lock bag. The consistency is slightly slushy, which makes it easy to place around joints. It's very cold, so put a towel over your skin before applying the bag. It can be used over and over. -- Joe L. and Doug J.

In RBR newsletter issue No. 143, we reported a lubrication solution to squeaking Look cleats. Here’s a digest of roadie feedback.

  • I changed from Look-brand cleats to cheap generic cleats and voila -- no squeaks and no need for lube. They do wear out faster, though. -- Hervey T.
     

  • Drip molten candle wax into all gaps in and around the cleats, including the adapter plate (for Carnac shoe wearers) and the rectangular bolt holes. Wax flows in, fills voids and stays put. Then extinguish the candle and rub it all over the cleats and pedals. Wax is dry and attracts zero dirt, but it’s still helpful to use cleat covers when walking. -- Ron G.
     

  • Rub a bar of soap on the tip and back of the cleat. It works for quite a while (at least here in Arizona). I make it a habit at my regular bike washing time. -- Kelly H.
     

  •  When I got my new Campy Record Ti pedals I had the most annoying squeaking. I solved it by rubbing beeswax on both the pedals and cleats. That was 4,500 miles ago and not one squeak since. -- Fred S.
     

  • Can you stand one more tip for Look cleats? Use a file or sandpaper at the point of contact at the toe end -- not on the pedal but the cleat. Like brake pads, the cleat gets glazed and harder and squeaks against the metal. -- Jim S.
     

  • To silence the infamous Sidi cleat adapter plate from squeaking, cut a piece of felt in the shape of the plate, then place it between the plate and shoe sole. Felt will give you the silent treatment longer than any greasy stuff you put under the plate. -- Bill B.

  • Use neat’s-foot oil to freshen and lubricate the leather plunger in old-style tire pumps. It won’t rot the rubber hose or inner tubes. -- Chuck V.
     

  • Castor oil is a great pump lube, especially for leather seals on the plunger. It doesn't attack the leather. I've used it in Silca, Zefal and several other brands of frame pumps with no problems. -- Larry A.
     

  • For raw skin around the crotch during multiday riding, I have found nothing better than Destin cream. It can be a little messy, but it doesn't sweat away and definitely eases the pain. It's easy to find in any drugstore and comes in several tube sizes. -- Tom R.
     

  • To dry wet cycling shoes, use the refrigerator. The air exchanger at the bottom of the fridge is just the ticket. The air is only warm so it doesn't hurt the shoes, but it will normally do a fine job of drying them overnight. Just remember not to trip over them when you go for your morning juice! -- Tom R.
     

  • To dry riding clothes faster on tour, use inflatable plastic clothes hangers available from travel stores. They separate the layers of your laundry. For instance, if you hang your shorts on one by putting the ends of the hanger under the waistband, the shorts are held open and dry much faster. -- Trudy F.
     

  • Use a large police whistle to fend off dogs. When a dog approaches, give him a loud blast. It startles him long enough for you to make a safe and easy getaway. It hasn't failed me yet. -- Barry B., captain, Sheriff's Dept.
     

  • For saddle comfort in the early season, wear two pairs of shorts, especially when doing long weekend rides but not much riding during the week. -- Rick H.
     

  • One thing often overlooked when discussing saddle comfort is using shorts with an old-fashioned real leather chamois instead of a synthetic pad. Real chamois seems to cause less friction. The only source I know is Kucharik. -- Bill R.
     

  • To make your cycling shoes smell better, put a scented dryer sheet in each one following your rides. -- Ron G.
     

  • I picked up this tip while riding with some Danes in the '03 Paris-Brest-Paris. It's the safest drinking position when riding in a group. When you reach for your water bottle on the down tube, twist your hand so the pinky is at the top and the thumb is at the bottom. Remove the bottle from the cage with this grip and untwist your hand as you bring the bottle to your mouth. When it arrives, it's at a much steeper angle than if you had grabbed the bottle with a handshake grip. The steeper angle means that the water flows without you having to raise your elbow or turn your head. -- Bill R.
     

  • To carry a pair of rubber exam gloves for roadside repairs or to help a crash victim, store them in a 35-mm film canister. They fit with the lid on. -- Bill R.
     

  • For ID on rides, carry an old driver's license or stick a return address label on both sides of your patch kit. -- Bill R.

Go to page 2

 


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