1. From the Top: Happy Holidays – and Our Thanks!
2. News & Reviews: The Wheel Builder: Why Bother Building and Maintaining Our Own Wheels?
3. Question of the Week: How Often Do You Stretch?
4. Ask Coach Fred: Padded Saddle or Firm Saddle?
5. Sponsors: Cycling Products from our Sponsors
6. Jim's Tech Talk: Steve Andruski’s Home & Community Bicycle Workshop
7. No Problem: Get Dirty to Hone Your Road Skills, Part 3
8. Quick Tips: Travel Bike Wheel Size – Additional Reader Tips
9. Cadence: How Do You Catch a Cold?
10. RBR eBookstore: The Best Cycling Bookstore on the Internet!
Let me start off this week by wishing all of our readers around the world a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah and Happy Holidays throughout this festive season. I want to thank you for being loyal readers of RBR and wish you a restful, peaceful – and hopefully, ride-full! – holiday season with your family and loved ones.
As both Christmas Day and New Year’s Day fall on Thursdays – and knowing how uber-busy this “quiet time” actually has a way of becoming for so many of us – we’ve decided to take the time off to spend with our own families, so this will be the last issue before we see you again on January 8. (Don’t forget, the site’s open 24/7, so feel free to catch up on past issues, skim the eBookstore for some holiday reading, etc.)
My own need to recharge has become acute as I’ve been waylaid by a nasty bug for over a week now and have been “powering through” to get out these past 2 issues. Thus – and I beg your understanding – I’m going to keep it short today, at least in this space. I think we’ve got another great issue for you overall. One last note before I get to what’s in today’s issue: I’ll have some exciting news to share about something new early in 2015, and we’re already working on some great topics for January. More on that later. Now, on to today’s issue. I hope you enjoy it.
With the proliferation of factory pre-built wheelsets, wheel building has become a dying art, Mike says, and it’s also understandable that some of us prefer to farm out our wheel maintenance to the local bike shop, as some of us are not as mechanically inclined as others.
But, he says, there’s no better feeling in cycling than taking the first ride on wheels you’ve built yourself. And learning to maintain your own hoops will give you both power and control in your cycling life. See News & Reviews for a dose of Mike’s wheel wisdom, along with a number of other short takes on some unique cycling stories.
One last quick reminder on the special Holiday offers on gear we worked hard to line up for readers from Sampson Sports and LifeBEAM helmets. Note: Sampon's special offers have changed from last week in order to tie in with their already low holiday pricing -- and are open to all RBR readers. See full details at the bottom of News & Reviews. Don’t miss out on some great savings on quality gear!
Dr. Alan Bragman’s new title, Shoulder Injuries and Cycling: A Guide to Treatment and Prevention, launched last week.
“Understanding the shoulder’s anatomy, and the various exercises used to address the different types of shoulder injuries or problems, can benefit cyclists – whether you’re trying on your own to overcome a less-serious shoulder problem or working with a physical therapist or other medical professional to rehabilitate a traumatic injury,” he writes in the eArticle.
The benefits of this anatomy and exercise knowledge extend beyond merely rehabbing an already-injured shoulder, he points out. The exercises, in particular, may “also help you avoid some of the typical shoulder problems as well. They are recommended for overall strengthening and stability of the upper extremities, with the goal of increasing your riding comfort and avoiding injury.”
Premium Member Price: $17.00 / Non-Premium Price: $20.00
Free U.S. Shipping / $12.50 International
Premium Member Price: $7.00 / Non-Premium Price: $8.50
Free U.S. Shipping / $5.00 International
By Mike Tierney
Why should we even bother with wheel tinkering at all? Why not just take them to the local shop for a fix when needed? And with so many factory pre-built wheelsets on the market, why would we go to the trouble of building wheels ourselves? After all, isn't wheel building the most difficult and complicated thing a bike owner can do, next to building their own frame?
We each have our own personal reasons for the amount of bike maintenance we perform, and how much we farm out to our local bike shop. But I've found over the past decade of motivating others to build and maintain wheels that it's actually quite a small leap (really, more of a hop) from thinking of wheel building as a mystical art to actually taking that first magical spin up the road on a wheelset that we proudly built ourselves.
Like many new projects we face in life, it's far easier if someone in the know clears the path for us and tells us just what is needed, and what is involved – in effect “demystifying” it for us.
I want to provide the motivation and the information to get you started. And trust me on this: There aren't many feelings in the world of cycling as special as taking that first ride on your first set of home-built wheels.
After decades of doing this, I still marvel at the synergy of that flimsy pile of parts when I jet off up the street and they don't collapse underneath me. Just to be clear, none of my home-built wheels have ever collapsed, but I'm still in awe during that first mile! The feeling never goes away.
Knowing how to maintain and evaluate our wheels gives us lots of power, too. No longer are we at the mercy of the repair backlog at the LBS, or face the catastrophe of discovering a broken spoke the night before a big event ride.
With some knowledge, a few minor tools and a small supply of parts, we can conquer almost any wheel-related problem.
The art of custom wheel building, even at the local bike shop, has taken a nose-dive in the past few years due to the proliferation of factory pre-built wheelsets. Most cyclists who got into the sport since the advent of the first wheel "systems" in the mid- to late-’90s have never known hand-built, customized wheels.
There isn't a stock factory bike on the shop floor that doesn't have a pre-built wheelset from one of many companies that churn out wheel systems by the thousands and ship them off to the big bike companies in boxcars.
Just who are those wheelsets designed for? Whether you’re a 110-pound lady or a 275-pound “Clydesdale,” you all get basically the same wheels.
But “one size fits all” is just one of the issues with factory pre-built wheelsets. What about the wheels’ "system" of proprietary parts? What bike shops can stock all the spare spokes, nipples and rims for the myriad wheelset choices?
What do you do when the factory orphans your wheelset for newer models and parts are no longer available? What are you going to do if the only way to get your wheels repaired is to ship them back to the factory? They will be gone for weeks.
Enter the world of custom hand-built wheelsets, my friends. Custom wheel builders (either you or the person who does it for a living) can decide what wheels are the best for you, your riding style, your needs and your budget. You can choose rim weight, width, depth, color, spoke gauges, spoke and nipple colors, hub quality and color, lacing patterns and more.
In the end, you get wheels tailored to you, lovingly assembled and tuned by hand; not by an unemotional wheel building machine. Even though the current ones are very sophisticated, they really don’t “care” about your particular wheelset, do they?
Those custom wheels will be built with the best hubs to meet your particular budget, whether it’s a $110 pair sourced from Taiwan or a $600 hubset built totally (yes, even the ball bearings!) to Rolex standards in Oregon, USA.
The spokes will be readily available at a bargain price of a dollar a pop or the world’s finest at $3 each.
The rims will be realistically priced from $40 to $130, unless you win big on Jeopardy or the lottery and splurge for $1,000 carbon ones (yes, that’s PER rim!).
All of it, you see, can be done – and should be done – in a manner that ensures you get what best meets your needs in terms of your physical makeup, riding style, planned use for the wheels, budget, and more.
There’s just no need to shoehorn yourself into a pre-built wheelset that doesn’t really work for you, or to break the bank to get some really nice wheels. And there’s no reason to fret over an occasional broken spoke or nipple, or a wheel out of true; you can fix it yourself and be ready to roll in plenty of time for your big ride.
In the next Wheel Builder column I’ll take a look at the tools you will need for home wheel building and maintenance, and we’ll look at what’s needed for getting into the hobby at realistic and “unrealistic” levels!
Let’s get rollin’!
Mike Tierney writes The Wheel Builder column for RBR. He is a life-long cyclist from the UK who has spent most of his adult life in Canada. Mike has been a passionate home wheel builder for the past 52 years and specializes in taking the mystery out of wheels and wheel building for Newbies. Hundreds of cyclists have built their first wheels with online help from his wheel building website, MikeTechInfo.com. Send your questions about wheel building and wheel maintenance to Mike at email@example.com.
If you have a spare 9 minutes, check out this moving video about Please Be Kind to Cyclists, an organization promoting cycling awareness and the impact of the deaths of cyclists on family and friends. It focuses on the deaths of three cyclists in Austin, Texas, and the “ghost bike” program to memorialize the felled cyclists.
Here’s a link to the video: http://vimeo.com/111301098
If you’ve never seen an outdoor velodrome constructed of wood strips, it’s really something to behold. The thousands of individual pieces (about 3/4-inch, or 19-20mm, wide) are screwed down side-by-side like a rough bowling alley to form the track surface.
And oftentimes, between races, repair crews with extra screws and a cordless driver scour the track to fasten down any loose boards or screws that may pose a risk to riders.
We were alerted last week by reader Tom McGoldrick that one of only two such 250-meter wood strip ovals in the U.S. – the NSC Velodrome in Minnesota – is currently closed and in need of significant repairs to reopen. The track is hoping to raise the needed repair funds to keep track cycling alive at the NSC. Here’s a link to the fund-raising site for more information: http://www.gofundme.com/hucgnk
To paraphrase a toddler song I remember singing along with my sons (many moons ago!) to teach them their various body parts:
Hands, fingers, feet and toes / feet and toes!
According to your votes in last week’s Question of the Week, those are the most common “biggest weaknesses” we have when it comes to riding in the cold.
Feet/toes got 41% of our votes, while hands/fingers was a close 2nd with 36%.
Head/face/ears was a distant 3rd with a mere 8%, and all the rest got negligible votes. But 11% of you went the “combo” route, choosing “some combination of these.”
Still, we ride in the cold, no matter what our weak links may be.
Just know that there are tips aplenty for how to handle winter on the bike in such RBR eBookstore titles as Year-Round Cycling: How to Extend Your Cycling Season, which includes tips not just for clothing and equipment, but also nutrition, technique for riding in wet or even snowy conditions, and motivation.
This one’s pretty cool. There’s a steep pitch in Trondheim, Norway – Brubakken Hill – that looks like it would be a bugger to climb on a city bike.
In stepped a French company with a solution that may work on similar hills around the world – an escalator for bikes. It works sort of like a tow lift on ski slopes, but with the cable underground. You roll up it on your bike, place your right foot on a footpad, which is attached to the “lift cable,” and it pulls you up the hill.
The Brubakken Hill lift is not new, but it was refurbished and rebranded in 2013 as CycloCable, according to a Slate.com article, in hopes that it might catch on in other spots around the globe. One immediate city that comes to my mind is San Francisco, with countless hills that resemble Brubakken Hill.
But the infrastructure cost ($2,800 per meter, according to Slate.com) is probably prohibitive for all but the richest cities with the highest percentage of bike commuters – who have a pressing need to ascend certain “bugger-steep” hills.
So don’t expect to see one anytime soon on a hill near you. But it’s still a neat idea, and fun to check out. Here’s a link to the Slate article.
Take a moment to check out some special offers on great cycling gear we've lined up for you during the holidays. There are savings to be had for both non-Premium readers and our Premium Members!
If you're not already a Premium Member, consider joining as a holiday gift to yourself in order to reap these sensational savings -- while supporting RBR at the same time. -- John Marsh
From SAMPSON SPORTS:
These special offers from SAMPSON SPORTS expire December 20, 2014.
PREMIUM MEMBERS: Click Sponsor Special Offers to access the discount code you’ll need to get the 15% discount. (Make sure you’re logged in first.)
These special offers from LifeBEAM expire December 31, 2014.
Coming up with a new poll every week is – believe it or not – one of the harder things I have to do. I would love to hear from you with any suggestions you have for a Question of the Week. To contact me, just hit the reply button on any email from us, or use the Contact Us form on the website: http://www.roadbikerider.com/contact. -- John Marsh
You may wince when I say this, but when I bought a new bike I immediately traded out the “racing” saddle that came with it for a contoured padded saddle. I'm 51, slightly overweight and rode 3,000 miles last year. I like my padded saddle. Is there a good reason to ride one that's harder and narrower? -- Brian P.
I'm not sure I want to get into the "padded vs. firm" saddle debate! Everyone's anatomy is a bit different, so the saddle that's comfortable for one rider can be painful for another.
Padded saddles promise greater comfort, and if your saddle is working for you there's no reason to switch to a different style. But there are sound reasons (besides appearance) why padded saddles don't work for many riders.
First, padded saddles tend to be wider, which causes chafing against thighs during pedaling.
Second, when sitting on a thickly padded saddle, your sit bones compress the padding, causing it to well up in the crotch and create pressure right where you don't need it.
Firmer and narrower saddles, on the other hand, support your sit bones without squishy padding impinging on soft tissue. They take some getting used to because the sit bones bear much of your weight. But after the initial break-in period (your rear end, not the saddle!) they're often more comfortable.
You might have proven that to yourself if you'd tried your new bike’s stock saddle for a few rides instead of immediately replacing it.
One other point: It's friction, not pressure, that causes most saddle discomfort. That's why padded saddles usually aren't the answer. It also explains the discomfort riders often feel when wearing cycling shorts with a heavily padded liner. A thin but "slippery" (well lubricated) liner is less likely to cause pain and saddle sores than an over-engineered, plush one.
Riders who like thick padding don't need to write! Again, it all depends on personal anatomy. (A couple of great resources for research and advice on saddle design are Finding the Perfect Bicycle Seat and The Illustrated Guide to Bicycle Seatsin the RBR eBookstore.)
Coach Fred Matheny has decades of experience as a competitive racer and cycling coach. He is the author of 13 RBR eBooks and eArticles.
For new, and renewing, Premium Members, we’ll kick in One Free eArticle of Your Choice. That’s a rebate, in effect, of $4.99 off the annual $24.99 membership. You can choose from among any of our 70 individual eArticles (bundles are excluded). Click to see the entire array: http://www.roadbikerider.com/all-earticles.
Of course, you’ll also get all the other great benefits we’ve pulled together for you, including discounts on all our eArticles and eBooks, great cycling product discounts, access to our full treasure trove of searchable content and, when you can’t find what you’re looking for, the Ask RBR a Question feature – which allows Premium Members to ask our experts directly; we’ll tap our network to find your answer.
Here’s how it works: Your receipt (emailed to you after purchasing your Premium Membership) is your coupon. Just hit Reply on that email and write in the title of the eArticle you’d like. I’ll drop it in your Downloads folder in your RBR account. (If you can’t find your receipt, just let me know. I’m happy to help you out.)
When I wrote my eBook, Your Home Bicycle Workshop, I used the word “Home” because I thought most readers would want to use the information to build a nice place to repair their bikes in their garage, basement or shed. I know from experience that having your own workshop also creates a fun place to hang out while working on your own machines and even more, when helping friends with their bikes.
But Maryland mechanic Steve Andruski sent some photos of the workshop he built and told me of his loftier plans to create a community bike shop. I thought I’d share his photos and pitch to generate interest, since these types of bicycle shops can do so much to help cyclists and promote cycling.
Tip: While my town of Santa Cruz, California, is pretty small, we have a nice community shop called The Bike Church. If we can have one, there’s a chance you might find one in your community, too. Or, if you don’t, maybe you’ll want to copy Steve and start one.
“Jim, I picked up your Home Workshop book because I was curious. I've enjoyed the book and got some good ideas. I recently did some major renovations in my workshop and finally have things set up the way I've always wanted. I thought you'd be interested in some pictures, especially my bike storage (see photo).
It's much more than many people need, and well beyond anything in your book, but I needed to find a way to store nine bikes and have them all accessible.
I'm in Maryland, just outside Washington, D.C. Getting my own space set up has helped me plan for the community bike shop I'm starting. I may even put together a parts list for the bike storage in case we want to build something similar for the shop.”
“Recently, the idea of a Bike Coop in Rockville came up in several different contexts and I figured this was a sign. The idea has been kicking around in my mind for a while, and I know there have to be others interested in starting one.
“There are several different non-profit ‘business models’ used, but the basic idea is a community bike shop where people can come to learn how to fix and maintain their bikes. Some of these are all-volunteer with some kind of membership or fee structure for use of the space. Others have a charitable portion to their mission, usually helping disadvantaged youth.
“My main interest is in teaching people how to fix and maintain their bikes. I'd like to get together with people with an interest in helping to get this off the ground. If it evolves into something with more of a charitable angle, that's fine, but it has to start somewhere.
“I'm willing to spearhead this, but I know I can't do it alone. If you live in the Rockville area or Montgomery County (Maryland), and you'd like to be involved in some way, email me. You don't have to be an experienced mechanic. Other skills are needed behind the scenes. Also, if you just have ideas about what you want out of a co-op like this, that's fine too. I'm tentatively using the name ‘Rockville Bike Hub’.”
If you’d like to help Steve create the Rockville Bike Hub, email him at firstname.lastname@example.org with Rockville Bike Hub in the subject line so he knows it’s related to the idea.
And if you know of other noteworthy community bicycle co-ops helping spread cycling, let us know and maybe we can share them, too.
Jim Langley has been a pro mechanic and cycling writer for more than 40 years. He's the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop in the RBR eBookstore. Check his "cycling aficionado" website at http://www.jimlangley.net, his Q&A blog and updates at Twitter. Jim's streak of consecutive cycling days has reached 7,644.
This concept in a nutshell: Roadies can learn smooth pedaling, bike handling skills and more by riding a mountain bike. In fact, some like to get off-road during the off-season, just for the change of pace.
We’ve spent the past couple of weeks discussing how to best use off-road riding to enhance your on-road skills. Last week’s focus was on using off-road riding to develop a smoother stroke. This week we’ll finish the series with a look at improving bike handling by getting dirty.
There’s nothing like sliding on loose dirt through corners to make you feel at home when your rear wheel skids on wet pavement. One of the best ways to learn is to follow better riders. In mountain biking’s infancy, that’s how we all did it. There weren’t any instructional books or tradition. We simply rode, pushing our limits and observing riders who were smoother and faster.
Now you can find articles on how to pull every technical move imaginable. But guess what—learning from better riders is still the most effective way. Watching as your hero rides around a switchback, tackles a rocky section or bunny hops a log imprints the technique in your brain. Then all you have to do is imitate his or her moves—and practice!
Find good mountain bikers in your area to serve as your role models. Look for them in cycling clubs or on group rides. Here are ways to learn from their example:
Play follow the leader. My descending skills improved markedly after I followed Skip Hamilton down a singletrack near Crested Butte called, appropriately enough, Deadman Gulch. A top off-road technician, Skip won the Leadville 100 several times. He floats effortlessly over obstacles, seeming to defy gravity. In trying to keep up, I crashed immediately.
After dusting myself off, I figured out how to follow at about 40 feet, focusing on the trail ahead but keeping Skip in my peripheral vision. Then I simply imitated what he did. I followed his line, adopted his relaxed, cat-like stance on the bike and mimicked his speed. It was like magic. His skills became imprinted on my brain. I became a Skip clone. Try it and you’ll see how well it works.
Follow good riders on climbs and technical sections, too. Imitate their gearing, cadence and line through obstacles. Often, problems stem from pedaling at the wrong cadence or not setting up correctly for the next turn and ramming the front wheel into something and stalling. Good riders get all these things right.
Ask for tips and help. Don’t be shy. Nearly all good riders feel flattered when asked to share their techniques. This includes pros when they’re out riding on the local trails. They remember when they started and how they learned from others, too. When I visited the Volvo-Cannondale team camp in Arizona, I made it a point to follow Olympic mountain biker Tinker Juarez on the trails and ask him questions whenever we stopped for a breather. (I needed a lot more extra breathing than he did.) Tinker was gracious and highly articulate. It was obvious that he’d thought long and hard about the sport’s techniques.
Watch a pro race. You don’t have to ride with top pros or coaches to sponge up their skills. Go to a race and find terrain on the course that mirrors what’s difficult for you. If you stall on technical climbs, spread your picnic by the meanest uphill section. Going over the bar on tough downhills? Locate the nastiest drop-offs and watch the action closely. You’ll be amazed at the racers’ agility and balance, but you’ll also see that their skills aren’t superhuman. They’re within reach once you understand what they’re doing with their bikes and bodies.
Go to a camp. Expert instruction is a quick way to get better. A coach will demonstrate skills, watch as you try various moves and cajole you into improvement. When you get coaching in a group of like-minded riders in a great mountain biking area, it makes the whole experience that much more effective.
Watch race videos. No pro races nearby? No vacation time to attend a camp? No problem. Simply watch a mountain bike race video, and learn. Repeat some sections so you can study a certain move again and again. Pause and slow it down to examine techniques in detail. Visualize yourself riding the same trail and handling the technical sections with the same relaxed assurance. Soon, other riders will be asking you for tips.
These skills, honed on dirt, transfer directly to the road. They’ll make you smoother, stronger and more powerful on hills or in big-gear situations on the flats. And they’ll keep you upright in perilous situations. You’ll be more confident on pavement because of the time you spend off it.
"I've been a long-time reader of your free RBR, but finally decided it was time to subscribe. You have a great publication and perform a much-needed service for the road biking community. Keep up the great work! "-- Roger Fobair
Support RBR with an annual Premium Membership for only $24.99.
Last week’s Ask Coach Fred column featured Fred’s response to a question by Premium Member Malcolm F. about suggested wheel size for a travel bike Malcolm was thinking of purchasing.
As is so often the case with topics we discuss, our readers are always happy to share their own knowledge. Such was the case with travel bikes and wheel size. So we thought we would bolster the discussion by adding a couple of good comments posted to the site, along with an email I received on the subject.
First, the email – from Premium Member Robert Ames:
Good morning John,
A reader asked about a travel bike and wheel size. My wife and I both have Moots titanium bikes with couplers from S & S. Both have standard 700C wheels and have been used extensively over the past 11 years. I have worn out my case on over 60 flights, easily replaceable.
If you did not know you were on a coupled bike, most people do not realize the bike comes apart, either. With a carbon fork, the bikes ride great, travel well and take about 30 minutes start to finish either way. The cable connectors are easy to use, the bikes assemble and come apart with the removal of the cog set and pedals being the largest obstacle.
I have been challenged by the airlines, but never paid a fee as long as the case weight stays under 50 pounds. The case is the maximum allowable standard size and takes a bit to get used packing as to not scratch anything or damage the bar tape, but very doable with reasonable skills.
And now the comments. The first was submitted by Premium Member Dave Minden:
Malcolm F. is probably just traveling within the U.S., where 700c wheels are common. If he goes outside this country, however, 650c or 26, are the norm.
And this one, submitted by RBR reader Paul in Friday Harbor:
Regarding wheel size: This randonneur rider should strongly consider getting a low-trail 650b bike with frame couplers. 650b might be the best overall wheel size for both performance riding and for "all roads/off roads" types of cycling. The wheels are a bit smaller than 700c, but high performance tires can be had in 42mm width, and if the frame is designed right, will fit with fenders.
A well-designed 650b road bike will sacrifice nothing to a skinny-tired bike, and on rough pavement or no pavement, will be able to maintain speed and comfort. Something to consider.
We’d like to hear from our readers with any Quick Tips you might have. To contact me, just hit the reply button on any email from us, or use the Contact Us form on the website: http://www.roadbikerider.com/contact.
By Gabe Mirkin, MD
Do you believe that you will catch a cold when you go out in the cold without warm clothing or when you have wet hair? If you say no, you are correct.
Colds and pneumonia are caused by infection. You do not pick up infections from cold weather, you get germs from other people who sneeze or cough in your face or transmit germs with their hands to objects that you touch.
Research shows that the most common way to get a cold is from someone who has a cold, sneezes on his hands, and then shakes yours. You can also get a cold when a person blows his nose or coughs into a handkerchief and gets some of the germs on his hands, then touches a door knob, and hours later, you touch the door knob and put your fingers in your nose. So the only way that you can get a cold is for someone to give the germ to you directly or by putting the germ onto something else that you touch.
The real question about colds is whether chilling the body hinders your immunity so that you can’t kill the germs in your body, so the germs that you can normally control suddenly become pathogens and make you sick, because your immunity is suppressed by you being cold. That question has been answered many times. Chilling does not hinder your immunity as long as you aren’t so cold that your body defenses are destroyed.
In 1958, H.F. Dowling and his friends wrote a paper in the American Journal of Hygiene, (Vol. 68, pp. 659-65): “Transmission of the Common Cold to Volunteers Under Controlled Conditions”. More than 400 volunteers were exposed to viruses that cause colds. Some were exposed to very cold temperatures while wearing heavy coats, some to 60-degree temperatures while wearing underwear, and some to a very warm 80 degrees. All had the same rate of infection. This shows that the crucial factor that determine whether you get a cold is being exposed to the virus that causes the cold.
Then in 1968, R.G. Douglas, Jr., wrote a paper entitled, “Exposure to Cold Environment and Rhinovirus and susceptibility to the Common Cold,” in the New England Journal of Medicine. Inmates at a Texas prison had the cold virus placed directly into their noses. At varying times after their exposure to the viruses, they were exposed to extreme temperatures, with varying amounts of clothing. Being cold or warm, being dressed, or undressed, and having wet hair or dry hair had no effect on their infection rate.
If you do not want to get a cold, stay away from people. You can get a cold from anything touched by a person who has a cold: your door knob, your pen, your phone, desk, spoon, table cloth, or anything else. People who are afraid to get colds should never shake hands with anyone.
Reprinted with permission from Dr. Gabe Mirkin’s Fitness and Health e-Zine. Gabe Mirkin, M.D., is a sports medicine doctor and fitness guru. A practicing physician for more than 50 years and a radio talk show host for 25 years, Dr. Mirkin has run more than 40 marathons and is now a serious tandem bike rider with his wife, Diana, often doing 30-60 miles in an outing. His website is http://drmirkin.com/.