Comment here on the current newsletter issue, or about anything you see on the site. All we ask is that you maintain civility and respect for your fellow cyclists. Thanks.
There were measurements showing that botle cages ()with bottles in them) in reality reduce an overaqll drag, so it is rather undesirable to remove them. At least one on the downtube shall be kept.
I don't see any mention of insulation ... I think I will wait for the Polar version to come out!!
Agree with your comments. If the writer is fortunate to be in southeast Ohio, he will find hills. Also, I research an area ahead of time and find a geographic or cultural site of interest to stop at during the ride. Doing so adds to the pleasure of experiencing a new area.
Some meet officials will DQ you for crumpling you race number. I may be wrong but I believe it is prohibited under USAC rules.
If I go alone I tend to hammer most of the route, focusing on metrics and aiming to get a few more PRs in Strava. Which is not a good thing all the time. I live in Northern CA with beautiful and quiet country roads. The few times I had gone out to truly enjoy nature, landscape, and just the pleasure of riding solo I have a wonderful time on the bike. I'd stop at a shade on the top of a hill and soak in the view. I try to find details in the distance, and always salute locals walking their dog, etc. I'd go into small towns and stop for a break, order coffee and would eat whatever food item I packed in. Some folks ask me about my bike. One time an older couple and I had a real nice conversation about clipping as he couldn't fathom cyclists having their feet stuck to the pedals :) When I get home and my wife ask me how was my ride, on those days where I enjoy the views, I give her my best feedback and she can tell, my happy face shows :-) Thanks for sharing your experience.
I think all of us who usually focus on the metrics and the training goals for much of our riding tend to have the same, pleasurable, experience when we "ease off the stick" and just ride for the enjoyment of riding.
It's probably a pretty good life lesson, too!
Good point John. I'm as much goal oriented on my rides as anyone and love ride stats but I too once in a while ease back and take a ride just for the sake of taking a ride. I do this maybe 3-4 times per year which probably isn't enough. All other rides have a performance purpose built in - an interval training ride of some kind or a timed ride for judging the fitness level.But it's the easier, laid-back rides that truly show us how far we have come. All the others hurt (a nice hurt) to some degree. I get back after a couple of hours of riding within myself at "100 mile pace" and marvel that only a tiny percentage of the population could match a ride like that.Those rides are even better when they're done on a perfect riding day - no wind and nice temps.I had one last week on my 30-mile mostly dirt/gravel loop. I hadn't done that ride in 6 years and it was awesome - no cars, no "shut up legs", no timed efforts; just sight-seeing and getting the head screwed back on.
You missed two ... just sayin ...
Scroll to the bottom and look - a Dura Ace 9000 24mm tubeless AND an Ultegra 6800 23mm tubeless !
Awesome. Thank you, Rick!
A tubeless valve can be inserted into any valve hole, and I believe and my experience indicates that a rim strip will satisfactorily seal spoke holes. So the important aspect of a rim to make it tubeless, not requiring sealant, is the bead lock. I have these wheels:http://www.velocite-bikes.com/velocite-rt50-wheelset.htmlwhich were supplied with a valve and a rimstrip but which have the bead lock. As far as I am concerned that makes them tubeless wheels.
And currently I am running Schwalbe One Tubeless tyres, which I believe are true tubeless. After installation they held pressure fine overnight, but then I added sealant for the puncture resistance.
And as I said in an earlier comment, the performance of the first sealant I used, CaffeLatex, was unsatisfactory at 100 psi. I am now using Orange Seal, but AFAIK it has not been tested by a puncture yet.
Thanks, Velocite,I just spoke with Schwalbe and they told me that the Schwalbe One Tubeless tire is for use with sealant. They said for 2016 they will be using the term Tubeless Easy for these tires rather than just Tubeless. If you visit their site you can see a photo of Jens Voigt driving a sharpened spoke (I think) through the tire to show how the sealant seals the tire should you run over something.
If your wheel, rim strip, rim/tire connection and valve stem form an airtight seal with your Schwalbe One Tubeless, you can run it without sealant. But, usually, the sealant is required to seal the places that the air is sneaking out. The tire will lose air and you'll have to keep topping it off.
If you think of car tires, there's the wheel and the tire, and the tire goes on and is airtight. That's the idea behind tubeless bicycle tires, too. All that's needed is the wheel and the tire. On the tubeless compatible/ready/Easy systems, other things are needed to keep the air in. Hope that explains better.
I've been using tubeless road tires since 2011, and have had only two problems. On one occasion the tire got cut, and I had to install an inner tube, and the second time a hole didn't get sealed because the sealant had dried up so again I had to installed an inner tube. I have had no flats other than the two occasions above.
I have fought the hassles on cleaning rims and tires from the gummy residue the dried up sealant, and the difficulty of sealing the tires on the rims. For me these items are the biggest drawbacks for tubeless tires, but in my opinion they are still worth the hassle.
First, during a race I don't have an escort with extra wheels so if I flat I'm out of the time limit, and become DNF
Second, I hate dealing with a flat during a brevet in the cold or rain.
The question is: would I recommend them? I would definitely point out all the hassles clearly, and let the person decide for himself.
My 2011 TCR Advanced came with DT Swiss Tricon tubeless wheels. However it had Michelin clincher tires on it. It was a couple of years before I puchased a set of tubeless Hutchison Fusion 3's. Once trying them I loved the ride. I weigh about 160 and was using 80psi in the front and 85 in the back. The ride was definately smoother than the clinchers. I live and ride in Quebec and the roads here are not good. I wore them down to the cords and purchased another set. I had one flat which was caused by a piece of metal and it cut the sidewall about 1/4 inch long. I put a tube in to get me home. I was not using sealant at that time. I was able to repair the tire with a tubeless tire repair patch. I did start using Stans's. However I noticed small spots on the inside of the rim where the paint had come off and there was corrosion. I did not have the corrosion problem until I started using sealant. The downside of tubeless is the tires are very expensive. Also there is a limited number of manufactures that make them. When I bought the tires I was able to get them at a reasonable price through internet bike sites. Currently I am back with clinchers. This is for two reasons. One is the cost of the tires. The other is I bought a new set of aero wheels. Shimano C50's. When I went looking most areo wheels were either tubular or clincher. Since then some manufactures are making tubless aero wheels, but most are not.
I would like to comment on a frequent misinterpretation that Jim also committed in his article. It is not true that "you. can run lower pressure on tubeless tires". Read your sidewalls. All tubeless tires will list as high or higher minimum pressures than tubed tires. The higher pressures are necessary to prevent sudden loss of pressure from 'burping' during high side loads, like high-speed corners.
Sure, if you are willing to take that risk you might not get pinch flats. But if you are in danger of pinch flats, you need more pressure, wider tires, or both, regardless of tire system. To be happy about not getting pinch flats is to be happy to take the risk of imminent damage to your rim.
Finally, because the tires have necessarily stiffer sidewalls, running at lower pressures increases rolling resistance more than it does with quality tubed tires.
By my estimation, the primary benefit is to folks in goathead country, with their frequent, easily sealable punctures. Those of us that rarely flat, or tend to get big gashes when we do, see less advantage. Tubeless do not have an advantage related to lower pressure.
Thanks, xukibyhop, you are 100% correct that you should follow the tire maker's recommended pressure ranges. However, it's incorrect that tubeless and standard tires list the same pressure ranges. And it's especially incorrect to say that tubeless tires require higher pressures to stay on the rim and prevent pressure loss/burping.
Just one quick comparison, Hutchinson Fusion 3 Road Tubeless tires' recommended pressures range from 87psi up to 116psi. Meanwhile, one of the most popular standard tires out there right now, Vittoria's Open Corsa CX in comparison has a recommended pressure range from 115 to 145psi. So you see that tubeless tires are indeed recommended to be run at lower pressures than one comparable standard tubed clincher tire. Anecdotally, I know lots of riders who do use even lower pressures on their tubeless tires - down to 75psi for one fast friend. But, I do agree that you should follow the recommendations and I should have made that clear.
Incidentally, pinch flatting on a tubeless tire won't happen and maybe even better, with a true Road Tubeless wheel/tire system, there is a built in bead lock mechanism that protects the rim should you bottom the tire out on a pothole or big rock. I once rode straight over a brick and not only didn't get a flat, I didn't damage the rims one bit, either. The impact would have pinch flatted standard tubed clinchers and crunched the rims, too, in my experience.
I would also explain that the reduction in rolling resistance with tubeless tires is said to come from there being no tubes inside the tires. The folks that measure such things say that the tube causes friction inside the tire and getting rid of that friction reduces rolling resistance. I can't measure this, but most riders I know can feel an improvement in ride quality if not energy savings straight away. That's why tubeless tires have taken mountain biking by storm and why there's so much buzz now about switching to wider rims and tires on road bikes so you can run super low pressures, too.
Hi Jim. Here's a response and anecdote to your sentence "Vittoria's Open Corsa CX in comparison has a recommended pressure range from 115 to 145psi."I use those tires almost exclusively. Yesterday I went for a 30-mile dirt & gravel road ride and I freshly pumped my Vittoria OpenCorsa EVO CX (25mm on 24mm wide rims plus innertubes) to 70 front and 80 rear (for my 175lbs). It was a hard fast ride for me (16.4mph average, top speed 31.5mph) and I bounced off a zillion pebbles and chip chunks. That's far below Vittoria's recommended 100 - 130 psi (on my sidewalls) . In the six years I've been using those tires I've never used more than 90psi (on narrow 19mm rims) and have pinch-flatted once when I let the pressure drift down to about 50-60psi. I wonder just how and why they come up with these high pressures?
Thanks for sharing your experience, Mike. From what you wrote you aren't experiencing these issues, But, for others, and to try to answer your last question, in talking to tire makers over the years, I've been told that the pressures are designed to cover the highest and lowest best pressures you can run the tires at.
If you run pressures too low, you risk frequent flats from bottoming out the tire, loss of control in corners from squishy tires and the tires wearing out sooner due to sidewall cracking from compressing too much and too often. And, the lower pressures can allow the tires to creep on the wheels when climbing or braking. If the tires creep, the tube can, too, causing the valve stem to become crooked and even get damaged in a worst case scenario. If you run pressures too high, you risk a harsh uncomfortable ride and maybe more rapid wear and tear. Of course, super hard tires don't work well on bumpy roads and dirt roads, either.
Regarding high pressures, I have heard from several tire companies that bicycle tires are tested at the factory to ensure that they won't blow off the rim at up to twice the maximum pressure, so you don't need to worry about that. For years many riders believed super high pressures saved energy and made you faster so it was a relatively common practice to overinflate. We've learned that that's not a good idea now.
I'm glad you're able to push the limits and get your Vittorias to work so well at such a low pressure.
No question Coach Hughes is right that proper hydration and electrolyte replacement is critical during long rides in the heat.
But dousing your head, etc. is only a wrong thing to do IF your H2O supply is limited. It is better to prevent hyperthermia during prolonged exercise than to try to recover from it. Besides drinking adequately, EVERY Kona Ironman contender douses liberally with water during that hot marathon. But they know they will have as much H2O as they need to drink AND douse at aid stations about 6min (or less) apart. Drinking only would clearly be a better use if your H2O supply was limited. I am guessing that limited H2O support was at least part of the context of the MTN-Qhubeka team comment to not douse until the 2nd half of the race.
And Camelbacks can be useful for more than just hydration. Filled with ICE they can provide additional body cooling (besides H2O from the melt). Most also have space for some emergency supplies & tools.
I have now ridden on tubeless tires for 2 years. I ride between 3K and 5K each year. I like the tires. The tires are 25mm. The ride is very comfortable. I have heard from others that they get a lot of flats with tubeless tires. I have not had this experience. I make sure they have adequate air before each ride and every 3 months I add fluid in the tube. I don't know if these are the reasons for success with tubeless but I believe it has allowed me to enjoy the tires for as long as I have. I do not carry a tube or tire levers but I do carry CO2 and a small bottle of fluid if needed.
I do know that if one breaks the seal on a tubeless tire you will have a very hard time getting the tire to seat properly. I don't want to have to try to figure that out.
If I were to get a new set of wheels or a new bike I would ask them to be tubeless. I think it is the way to go.
i have never understood one thing:
( i hate the idea of tubulars or tubeless so that is my bias but...)
1. anyone going to the extra trouble of these tires is probably a racer
2. an 'advantage' is 'can ride flat'
3. what kind of race do you try to finish on a flat tire?
(possibly you try to finish just because it would take an hour to change the tire even if you were carrying a spare one like the 1910 tour de france riders..)
yes i know 'it doesn;t come off'
i have ridden 5 miles on a flat front tire, standard road clincher, it can;t be any slower and it did not come off
i have ridden 2+ miles on a flat back tire, trying to keep weight off the back to avoid denting the rim, and not using rear brakes
so how is 'they don;t come off when flat' such a big advantage?
The big advantage is that they DONT flat (when using a little sealant). You might loose 5-10psi as the small hole is sealing.
You've evidently never experienced a front flat at speed. With a clincher, that pretty much guarantees a rendezvous with the pavement, often followed by a trip to the emergency room. With tubulars or tubeless, you at least have a fighting chance to stay upright long enough to brake to a halt.
Riding a clincher when it's flat often results in rim damage if the tire bead unseats and you end up riding on the rim sidewall. This can also lead to a meeting with the pavement on top of the substantial bill for a new rim.
While it's possible to ride tubulars/tubeless when they're flat, with a typical tight-clearance road race frame, the tire is likely to rub the inside of the fork and/or chainstays (especially with tubulars), which will destroy carbon parts in short order and can damage metal frames. With frames that have more generous clearance, it's not an issue, but in many instances, riding on a flat tire isn't practical.
so you ride tubulars all the time then?
since you actually cannot ride them flat, do you carry 2 or 3 spare tires, properly aged, never allowed to get wet, glue, thread, needles?
how many people ride tubulars on a road bike, how many killed by clincher flats?
it can;t be that big a problem
but your mileage may vary!
Printing the anonymous letter that suggests 'anyone can have a heart attack, get yourself tested' is so incomplete! What tests? Everyone should get tested, now? Many of us need more information, including any tests, any precautionary signs, or just plain advice on whether 'anonymous' is right.
In short, all of us above age 40 (some younger, depending on family history and other risk factors) should be getting an annual physical, and any additional testing recommending by your primary care physician.
Re: heart health, we have covered the topic before, but I will ask Dr. Gabe Mirkin to cover it again. In the meantime, you might read this article by Coach David Ertl, too: www.roadbikerider.com/newsletters/issue-no-657-cautionary-tale-how-cycli...
Thanks for the suggestion.
While John makes good comments about how to extricate oneself from a front wheel crossover, in reality it isn't quite so simple. My own experience (and my first major crash) was while setting up to sprint for the line in a criterium some years ago. The bunch speed was around 45 to 50kph and when I crossed wheels I simply had no time to react, indeed I didn't know what had happened until I woke up at the side of the road and fellow riders explained to me what had caused me to fall and end up in hospital with a broken collarbone, concussion and big chunks of skin gone awol. Fortunately I was on the inside and fell towards the road edge, not taking out anyone else. I was amazed then and still am at how fast the reaction of the front wheel is to the touching of the other rider's rear tyre - instantaneous. When I see it in the big pro races I empathise with the riders because to recover control at far greater speeds than what I was doing must be pretty much impossible.
John's advice has merit but I think it is speed dependent as to whether it will be successful.
Regarding the problem of feeling bloated on rides - I have found that particularly in hot/humid weather when I need to be taking in a lot of fluids it is critical to take in enough salt to go with it. Otherwise your electrolyte balance goes out the window and there is not enough osmotic pressure in your gut to allow the water to transfer into your body. This varies widely from person to person but if your sweat is salty like mine (salt traces on the shorts about about the 50 mile point) then it may be that you need more salt to help the fluids do their job.
As with most studies, one day something is good for you, the next day its not, I dont even listen to these studies anymore.
I agree with Fred in Michael L's case that something else must be tried. His experience sounded like mine when I didn't eat enough to begin with. I was in a state of semi-bonk and couldn't figure it out until later. It felt like I was pulling an anchor all day.
Great article with very good suggestions. One additional suggestion - store your spare tube in a zip lock bag with baby powder. The powder helps the tire mounting and allows the tube to slip inside the tire, avoiding pinching the tube while mounting the tire. It more than makes up for geting baby powder on me while fixing flats.
Great guide. Guessing those techniques have been passed around for many decades. That's pretty much how I learned at my favorite shop back before the earth cooled. Not too happy changing tires on a ride. But installing new ones is always a pleasure, including putting the valve next to the tire label.
A word of caution about allowing your hand or fingers to run along the tire bead. The bead on some tires, new or used, can be sharp enough to easily slice skin.
"A word of caution about allowing your hand or fingers to run along the tire bead. The bead on some tires, new or used, can be sharp enough to easily slice skin."
That's why I only use folding (kevlar beaded) tires :-)
I adopted road tubeless several months ago because I read that handling was better and accepted that sealant would all but eliminate punctures. Experience to date? Handling is good, but I'm not sure the Schwalbe One's are any better than the GP4000s. They do feel secure though. Puncture resistance? Experience bad so far, but may improve. I had one small puncture and the sealant struggled to plug the hole. By dint of effort with the mini pump I got enough air into it to ride the 15 kms home. Two minutes after I pumped it up to 100 psi with the track pump it blew sealant out the hole and lost most of its air. I surmised that the problem might be the sealant I was using, which was CaffeLatex. After a bit of web research I thought Orange Seal might be better, so I put some of that in. To my knowledge I haven't had a puncture since, so for me the jury is out.
Initial fitment is of course a pain. I managed to fit one tyre out of four with my normal track pump, but mostly not. I bought a Bontrager 'Flash Charger', a floor pump with an auxiliary cylinder which delivers the required rush of air to seat the beads. And soapy water is necessary.
But there is one area where my impression is a very pronounced gain: rolling resistance. I was rolling slower than many in my bunch, but now I am faster than any. So if the Orange Seal works I'm hooked.
I think it's a little ridiculous to say road tubeless is a dead end.
Apparently Caffelatex has finally changed to a new formula that includes silica (like Stan's has all along) and it works better. The original formula was absolutely worthless junk. Stan's has always worked well for me. Orange seal seems to do well in tests, but I haven't tried it myself.
Couple articles on tubeless from a very knowledgeable source :-)
Drew's explanation of the root csuse of wobble is the best I have ever read, very easy to understand. I will definitely try his ideas (unweighting the seat) the next time I encounter a speed wobble.
I have not read through all the comments, but certainly unweighting the saddle is a great method. I want to include a little known solution as well, though. Basically, if anyone remembers the Trek Y foil frame that was only made for a couple of years in the mid '90's, that bike frame is 100% stable. Something with the totally different design of the frame changes it's stability. I have ridden it at speeds up to 40mph with hands off the bars and have tried to make it wobble with many different positions and it is always perfectly stable!!! I hope this doesn't raise the pricing value too much, but it's ok as I already have two of them!
This week's newsletter is one of the best you guys have published. Kudos.
We appreciate that!
Am I missing something somewhere? Reading Road Bike Rider would lead me to believe that 25mm tires have taken over 23's throughout the cycling community. I'm a racer in the Pacific Northwest US and I don't know of anybody that uses 25s for racing or training.
It's surprising that you're not seeing more 25s, as even the pros (as we reported earlier this spring during Classics Season) are increasingly using 25s (and even 28s!) in races.
The evidence is pretty clear (which we also reported, in a piece written for RBR by Jan Heine: www.roadbikerider.com/newsletters/tire-pressure-revolution-jan-heine#new...) that 25s provide the optimium in speed and comfort for road riders. It's also clear that rims are heading in the same direction -- and have been for a while.
I can't speak to the road tubeless -- but off-road is a no-brainer.
The first time I went out on a new bike I got three flats (lots of bullheads and other trail "gifts"). I switched to tubeless the next day and have only had one flat since then, and that when I ran over a thumb sized broken branch that punched through the tire. Even then I was able to get home before it died completely. In that situation a tube replacement would not have done any good as it would simply have herniated unless I had something pretty big to cover up the hole on the inside of the tire.
Tubeless is not dead end, it is open end. Tubes are dead end. Excellent article but one important point was omitted, which for me was the deciding factor when I went tubeless early in 2013: SAFETY. When tubes blow, on a bicycle or a motor vehicle, the sudden release of air into the potential space between tube and casing blows the tire bead off the rim. Before tubeless automobile tires, blowouts caused loss of control and roll overs. Blowouts on bikes cause crashes, and when a front tube blows, the tire, detached from rim, binds against brake caliper causing rider and bike to flip. With tubeless A) there is no tube to rupture, and B) all leaks are to the atmosphere, outside the rim.
Those who have given up on road tubeless did not persist and learn. I have ridden 17,000 miles on road tubeless, 3 wheelsets + tires from three manufacturers, and have yet to have a flat. There have been punctures, even from goathead thorns, but none resulted in any noticible loss of pressure, and were incidental discoveries on later inspection (Stan's sealant, more added at 2-3 month intervals in dry Colorado climate). My tire mounting skills have gradually improved. Sometimes I get tires mounted without a compressor.
At 132 lbs body weight, when riding 25mm tires on 20x622 rims (actual tire width 28.4mm) my inflation is only 45 psi F and 65 R. Same tires on 17x622 rims (actual tire width 26mm) I add 10 psi. With these pressures puctures are rare. Gravel roads slow my riding companions, but not me, and rolling resistance, especially on rough pavement, is less. Cornering is phenomenal, no more chattering and skipping on rough corners.
A few suggestions:
1. Use either soapy water or Schwalbe Easy Mount to lubricate both tire beads and rim bed.
2. Purchase a Koolstop Tire Jack to assist with mounting.
3. Choose either the Schwalbe One Tubeless, which seals airtight immediately upon mounting and mounts and removes most easily, or purchase the Hutchinson Sector, also good and very light for its volume. Avoid Huthcinson Fusion and Bontrager R3, both of which can allow air to penetrate layers of tire, raising blisters under tread and leading to failures.
4. Avoid the Bontrager one piece black plastic rim strip. It sometimes does not seal, especially on their RXL TLR rims where the rear rim has offset spoke holes inadequately covered by this rim strip. Instead use the mylar-like adhesive backed tape sold by Hed, Stan's and others, two complete wraps per rim.
5. Remove from your tool kit the tube, patches, tires leavers. Any tire damage sufficient to strand you would also strand you with a tube type tire, i.e. you'd have to have a major casing tear (and you'll never ride with a casing more durable than the Scwalbe One Tubeless). In 17,000 miles ridden tubeless I have been disabled with cable failures, hub failures, crank failures, broken derailleurs, but never with a tire issue. TUBELESS HAS MADE TIRES THE MOST RELIABLE COMPONENT ON MY ROAD BIKES.
With Dura Ace wheels and Hutchinson 28 tires, I have ridden over 25,000 miles and never changed a flat on the road. Running 60psi rear and 50 front my Scott CR1SL irons out the chip seal, may even improve rolling resistance, feels at home on gravel,and corners like a motorcycle.
What's not to like?
Just two comments: if you require a compressor to mount the tubeless tires at home, how will you deal with it on the road. I have been on two recent rides where better mechanics than I, had tubelelss flats, and had to call for a ride home. I love the simplicity of the clincher system and have not had a pinch flat in thirty years. I do own pumps, which are the best maintenance and preventative for that.
As to wider rims...widening the rim requires more strength and material, ie weight, in order to maintain the same strength at the brake surface as a narrower rim. I have happily ridden the 19mm standard with well designed clinchers, in my case Vredestein, 23mm for so many years I have last count. NO pinch flats, good solid feel on the road and enough comfort. More important is solid cornering and descending. The best descenders in the business say you have no business underinflating for descending.
Compressor at home for (a) first mount of a new tire, (b) or fix a flat so you dont burn through a CO2 cartridge. On the road, a CO2 will quickly inflate the tire fast enough so the air wont leak out.
Let a new tubeless tire sit on the bike, over inflated for at least 24 hours. This helps to "s t r e t c h" out the tire enough so that it is easier to remove/replace on the road. Ive had good luck with SLIME do you dont have to worry about fixing the tire on a ride....
I am wondering, were these better mechanics than you not carrying a tube? I have just had the one tubeless puncture so far and (1) the beads did not unseat and (2) the sealant sealed well enough for me to use the mini pump and get home. But if the sealant had not worked I would have installed the tube, in which case I assume that in the course of inflating the tube the tyre beads would have been forced into location on the rim.
velocite, looks like you are doing everything right! Sealant, minipump, spare tube! Exactly what I do!
The final question is easily answered: The new 25 is the 28.
A couple of years ago I switched from 23s to 25s. Before the switch it seemed to me there was litle question that the wider tire with lower pressure is more comfortable. The draw back was the concern that wider tires meant greater rolling resistance and weight. I finally made the switch to 25s based on articles showing that in real world situations the wider tires actually meant less rolling resistance and handled better than more narrow tires. The difference in weight is negligable. And, weight, even rolling weight, is way overrated. My experience confirmed that the 25 was much more comfortable and I could not detect any decrease in performance. This lead me to switch to 28s for a cross country bicycle tour. After a couple of thousand miles into the tour I have had the same experience. The wider tire with less pressure is again more comfortable and I again can not detect any decrease in performance. My rims, Mavic Open Pro, can't take a wider tire nor do I have the clearance on my bike. So, I am sticking with the new 25s, my current 28s, or I would be tempted to try something even wider.
Been riding tubeless for over 3 years. Would never go back. If you weigh more than 200 pounds and ride rough or dirt roads you should be on them. No more pinch flats running 90 psi rear 23c tire. Used to pinch flat multiple times a year with 110 psi. More comfortable no pinch flats I do not even run sealant in them. running schwalbe tires 23c will be buying a 28 as soon as schwalbe comes out with them. I have had trouble with the hutchinsons though.
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