Comment here on the current newsletter issue, or about anything you see on the site. All we ask is that you maintain civility and respect for your fellow cyclists. Thanks.
3 quick comments
John, I appreciate all the work that goes into publishing RBR
I have been using 28mm compass tires for a couple years and the difference in comfort is obvious. Hard to tell if I am faster. The tires have a great feel.
Regarding advice on IT band - the evidence is growing that antiinflammatory meds and probably ice is not helpful for acute or chronic musculoskeletal injuries and also impedes the body"s adaptation to exercise.
Steve Koester, M.D.
After reading the article which is a thought provoker, Are tubeless casings thinner or at least more flexible than clincher and tube and therefore better? Are latex tubes better than using butyl tubes if they are better or equal to tubeless?
If one is going to use spark plug washers on pedals, as recommended in the article, you have to be very careful. Spark plug washers are designed to compress when they're installed, to form a seal between the plug and the cylinder head. If they're used on pedals and not tightened until fully compressed, they will compress as you ride and your pedals will loosen. Since pedal washers are readily available at bike shops, I don't see the point in using spark plug washers.
Pedal extenders can also be problematic, as their added length creates more leverage on the pedal threads in the crank. While some pedal manufacturers offer longer spindles for their pedals, they're not typically 20-30mm longer like pedal extenders.
Bad science: no stats, no methods. Conclusions unfounded by the data. Sounds like a sales pitch.
...that wider tires are not a disadvantage, up to a point, which is why the pros are using them now. They wouldn't make the change if there was a disadvantage or no advantage.
I switched to 25s years ago and would never go back to narrower tires. I find that on standard road rims, at my weight of 175#, I can run 72-73psi front and 82-83psi rear. The ride is quite comfortable (important for crappy New England roads), but the tires don't feel mushy when I get out of the saddle to climb or sprint, which is the way I determine optimum pressure. Cornering grip is excellent, I've never noticed any extra drag from the lower pressure and I've never had a pinch flat. What's not to like?
The current article recommends lubricating threads so you can tighten cleats very tight. I prefer to use a threadlocker such as Locktite. It lubricates during installation, then hardens to a plastic consistency preventing loosening during use and keeps dirt out of the threads so they can be removed when needed. It is one of the reasons modern cars do not rattle and loose parts like they used to.
Speedplay screws come with Loctite on them and they stress how important it is to use it.
Great article on tire pressure, but I need clarification on 2 things...
First, Jan clearly states that (for smooth roads) a 25mm tire is the optimal size (larger tires aren't slower, but they aren't faster either). Now if this is true, why does BQ not offer a 25mm tire from their new Compass tire company?
Second: Rotational weight was never mentioned. We all know from reading past RBR articles that rotational weight savings is the most profound weight savings you can have on a bike. In short, large tires are going to be heavier than smaller tires. The performance difference between the different weights of a 23mm and a 25mm are likely to be miniscule, but the difference between a 23mm and a 32mm? I would imagine you are adding so much more rotational weight, your performance would likely suffer (and I mean physical performance, not the performance of the tire).
Several times, I've done "roll down" tests to check the speed at various tire pressures. I was always confounded by the weird results. It would be something like:
70 psi = 17.1 mph
80 psi = 17.9 mph
90 psi = 17.2 mph
100 psi = 17.5 mph
There was no "linear" pattern, or whatever you'd call it. Guess the article confirms my results perfectly. Now, I won't worry much about the pressure, and I'll keep it on the low side to smooth out the chip & tar roads.
I have experimented with my car tires. It may depend on the tire. One set, I got better MPG at 35 psi, another was around 30 psi. (Car's recommended pressure was 32.) Only way to find out, is try different pressures.
Good example of value of objective data vs "that's the way we have always done it."
1. How do I shop for a tire with supple casing? I don't think I would recognize it i my hands.
2. Do the wider tires weight more? That would be disadvantage up a big hill.
3. Does wider tire require a wider rim?
1 - Look for high thread counts, such as 120 TPI.
2 - Yes, but they may not be much heavier than lower-thread count, narrower tires.
3 - Not necessarily, but it depends on how wide you're going. I've run tires up to 37mm wide on standard road rims, but wider rims would support the tire better. Up to 28mm is no problem on standard rims.
A good case is make for wider tires with supple casings. However the Compass Stampede tires are only available in 32mm width, which will not fit my bike. Are there other Compass tires or other brands which would be similar?
I had IT band pain starting in my early twenties when I jogged for fitness. I'd try to run 3 miles 3 times a week and always in shorts, regardless of temperature, either before or after work (I was living in Southern California at the time). I found that after about 4 weeks on that that schedule, my outer right knee began to bother me, and it got progressively worse until I stopped running for about a month. Then I'd start getting back into the running schedule and the cycle would repeat. I tried a neoprene knee-warmer, and it got worse. I quit running at 38 - my lower back was barking too - but in the last few months I ran I tried running in sweat-pants. That combination of keeping the legs warm without pressure on the IT band seemed to prevent the condition from returning, but it was too late: I was done with running.
At 56 I started to ride a road bike with cleats, riding shorts, etc and - on a hunch - Pearl Izumi leg warmers which I wear if the air is the least bit chilly. Since then there has been only one occasion where I've had IT pain: I was riding down the coast with a cold sea-breeze crosswind, my right knee was on the windward side, and I hadn't brought my leg warmers because it was a warm day inland at the start of the ride.
Other than that one episode, the last 8 years have been IT band pain-free, and I go on rides at temperatures when there is frost on the ground (I'm in Northern California now). For me, keeping cold air off the knee without pressure on the IT band is a winner.
I'm wondering if Jan Heine thinks his studies on bicycle tire pressure has any relevance to automobile tire pressure? A lower than recommended tire pressure would definitely result in a smoother ride but would it result in less required power and increased gas mileage?
Don't try lowering your tire pressures much in a car tire. They carry a lot of weight and do a lot more work that bike tires. Also they are wide and flat, unlike a bike tire. If they are underinflated they will not corner as well, they will likely wear faster and they may overheat at sustained highway speeds. If you want a smoother ride pick the proper tire. Tirerack.com does their own testing and provides surveys by customers. Many buyers do not realize that there are many categories of tires and dozens of choices within each. For a smooth ride choose a Touring tire. Don't be deceived by what a manufacturer calls a tire, check out the reviews. Manufacturers sell "performance" tires that aren't and "touring" tires that aren't either. Your dealer will likely recommend the tire they make the biggest profit on. Tire Rack has many affiliated dealers who are happy to install tires bought online. You can even ship the tires to the dealer.
One thing that can make a big difference in the handling and comfort of your car is varying the pressure between the front and rear tires. In the majority of cars on the road today, the front tires carry 60% or more of the load, but car companies typically tell you to use the same pressure at both ends. In my experience that's usually too low for the front, resulting in increased wear on the edges of the tread. In the rear, the recommended pressure is usually pretty close. On my own cars over the years (front wheel drive), I've found that something on the order of 36 front/32 rear works well, though the absolute numbers will vary with vehicle weight and tire size.
I found this very informative and have a little piece to add. Last year, I finally went in for a Retul computerized bike fitting - my first ever. The fitter spent a very long working on my left foot cleat. Before this fitting, I had both cleats in an identical comfortable (to me) position. Now I have one cleat back and the other slightly forward of the original position, and it works. I was also advised to try and pedal in a more horizontal foot position from my former - heel raised style. The end result is that my maximum cadence increased from around 98 to roughly 118 before I "bounce". Who would have guessed?
I was happy to have met a long distance rider who told me that he thought my achilles tendon soreness was from my cleat position being too forward and to move it back. That solved the problem and I've positioned my cleats as far back as possible since.
If you look at it carefully, it's basically a 3-wheel, electric moped. The pedals are largely symbolic, since the vehicle it too heavy to pedal and it would take forever to charge the battery to any significant degree by pedaling. Factor in the ridiculous price and there really isn't much of a point to this thing.
Sometimes we just hope to entertain!
Reading that makes me really glad that I gave up eating red meat when I started racing back in '76. Of course, I did it for all of the reasons that were debunked in the article. I really appreciated the detailed explanation of the issues surrounding cholesterol, saturated fats and carbs; it's the most thorough treatment of the subject I've seen. It's nice to see someone who's not preaching some one-sided "eat this" or "don't eat that" fad diet.
Now, if I could only get my "sweet tooth" under control...
This is an area, like you stated in the article, that we will be battling for a long time. It's getting better I believe. It starts with the new riders. In any program that I work with be it LLS, Trek Century Training, Etc. I/we make it a policy to enforce the road rules onto the group and individual riders. If anyone doesn't want to follow those rules and laws then they are not allowed to ride in the group. Simple....plus most people see the value.
However, just like our society, we will always have those who don't see it as a problem to break the law. It's small and doesn't hurt anyone but themselves is often their reasoning. Whenever I encounter a person who has, as an example, run a light or stop sign, they immediately response with, "Are you the police". This tells me that if the police was there they wouldn't have broken the law. So they only follow the rules when law enforcment is watching? You got to ask, what type of values does that person have?
But, we live in a nation that allows us to have certain freedoms. I wouldn't give that away for anything. All I can do is preach the word to do the right thing no matter who is watching because it's in the best interest of all.
Personally, I've pretty much always ridden according to the rules that have been codified in Idaho, despite the fact that I don't live there. That is, cyclists can treat red lights like stop signs and stop signs as yields. The way I see it, intersections are the most dangerous place for cyclists and if I can get through one safely before the motor vehicles do, I'm far less likely to get into an accident. I fully realize that I'm breaking the law, but I'm doing what is safest for me as a cyclist. And no, I don't do it if there are police present for two reasons:
1 - I don't need the hassle of getting pulled over and possibly ticketed.
2 - If there's a cop at the intersection, motorists are going to be on their good behavior too and I'm safer because of it.
OTOH, anyone who just blows through red lights and stop signs on a bike is looking to get killed. I have never done that and never will.
John, that was a fantastic View from the Editor article! I have also ridden in Europe on two different occasions. In Spain around Girona where we encountered a lot of high performance motorcycles on the winding hilly roads. But never did I feel uncomfortable or unsafe around them. When we were climbing they and the cars waited very patiently behind us and when they did pass it was only when they had plenty of open road ahead and they gave us at least 3 feet clearance. The other time was along the streets of Paris including the busy Champs-Elysees on a rented bike. Even with the constant volume of traffic and pedestrians, my son and I never felt we were in danger. Cyclists must ride defensively just as drivers are taught to drive defensively. Changing laws starts with changing attitudes which must start at a young age. In my opinion, old attitudes and habits are hard to change once you become an adult. It certainly seems that adding additional emphasis around bicyclist's safety in Drivers Ed course curriculums would be a lot easier to change than state laws in our current environment.
I ride along PCH from Seal Beach, in southern California, down to Newport Beach and back, and frequently go as far as Oceanside and points in between before turning around.I've had few if any problems with drivers, in the last four years. They're fast and there's lots of them which makes them dangerous, but they're polite, they know where I am, stay off of the shoulder,don't blow their horns or get mad. I make sure I establish eye contact with them and then they'll make allowances for me. The thing that scares me the most are car doors. It's the opposite with cyclists, particularly wanna be bike racers. They ride in big packs, leak out into the roadway, ignore stop signs and stop lights and jump on back wheeels without asking and ride on the beach bike paths at high speed on crowded days. I also ride on the San Garbriel and Santa Ana bike trails; the stunt there is for a pace line to go around slower cyclists and then run oncoming riders off the trail because there's not enough room to pull back in! I never ride on those trails on Saturdy mornings. Never! I won't bother telling you how bad the beach cruiser crowd is. Obviously, cyclists are not going to kill that many people, but that's not the real issue: we better get used to cars, they're not going away, there are more and more of them and their drivers are tired of bicycles. Get used to riding on the edges and staying away from cars, because that's the way it's going to be!
The way I was taught how to bunny hop made it pretty easy and fast to learn, so I thought I'd explain. The first step is getting comfortable lifting the front wheel off the ground while riding. You're not really popping a wheelie or anything extreme like that. You just need to learn to move your weight back a little on the seat and gently pull back and up (gently!) on the handlebars to get the front wheel to come off the ground a little bit. With practice you can lift the wheel more with the weight shift than with pulling much.
Once you've got that down, you learn to lift the rear wheel off the ground, which is almost the same technique as the front. It's even easier though because you can lift/pull with your feet thanks to the toe clips or clipless pedals on most road bikes. BUT BE CAREFUL!! You can easily flip over the handlebars if you move too far forward and pull too much with your feet. You are just trying to very slightly raise the rear wheel off the road, that's it. Practice these two moves until you've got them down.
Now that you can lift the front wheel and the rear wheel individually, to bunny hop, you just use the techniques you've learned together and you will be able to bunny hop small obstacles. One thing that helps the timing to lift both wheels off the ground is to push down trying to compress both tires and then lifting with your arms and feet and you try to unweigh the bike rising out of the seat. Your weight remains mostly centered. If you learn to lift the front and rear wheel on their own, lifting both at the same time will feel easier actually because there's no forward or rearward weight shift needed.
Note, though, that some riders learning to bunny hop this way can get good at doing it one wheel at a time (the front wheel rises and as it's coming down, the rear wheel is rising), and also timing it so both wheels come off the ground at the same time.
Hope this helps,
...for getting a bike airborne. The one in the article is the way I learned back in 70's and we just referred to it as "jumping" an obstacle. The idea is to get both wheels off the ground at the same time and keep them parallel to the road surface. It's essentially a matter of compressing on the bike, then springing upward at both ends at the same time. There is no weight shift forward or back.
I think of "Bunny hopping" as the technique popularized by mountain bikers. As you describe, weight is shifted rearward to get the front wheel airborne, then the rear wheel is pulled up afterward as weight is shifted forward again. This technique makes it easier to clear larger obstacles than the "jumping" technique above.
Obviously, either one works. I learned jumping long before mountain bikes were popular and I'm comfortable with it, but for some reason the bunny hopping technique has been much more difficult to learn. Maybe it's the "old dog, new tricks" thing. ;-)
This week's poll should have included the selection "I don't own an indoor trainer. I do some other type of exercise when I can't ride outdoors".
I live in the western suburbs of Washington, DC where you can ride all winter if you bundle up. Most winters you can count on having one or two decent riding days a week. This winter has been tough. February was particularly bad with lots of snow, ice, and brutally cold temperatures. I was only able to get in two rides last month.
March is not looking much better. As I write this, heavy snow is falling. We already have two inches of snow on the ground and expect to get another 4 to 6 inches before this evening. There'll be no ride for me today - this afternoon I'll be getting my exercise by shoveling snow!
I changed the Question to read "working out" indoors. I, too, prefer to do something other than pedal indoors. I use my elliptical machine, do yoga and core work.
I don't workout indoors at all, and it's not because I can cycle year-round. Being I'm not equipped for and don't enjoy cycling in the cold, I turn to outdoor running and ice skating (if cold enough, which it has been this winter) to keep my fitness up. So as your question reads now, I can't answer it accurately.
I am one of those horrible cyclists that occasionally run red lights and run stop signs. And I am also one of those horrible automobile driver that runs red lights and stop signs and speeds! I also do this on my motorcycle too.
Does this make me unsafe? NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT.
Stop signs are in place to resolve conflict at an intersection. It makes it clear who has the right of way. If no one is anywhere near a stop sign when I arrive, why should I stop? Only if I think a cop is watching. If a cop is watching, I may get a ticket for this - but I was not doing anything unsafe.
Red lights are in place to resolve conflict at an intersection as well. For the same reasons listed above, it is not dangerous to run a red light, especially the case where there is a separate left turn light and the left turn light is red and the straight ahead light is green. Also keep in mind that if the light is not operating properly, it is legal to treat it as a stop sign.
Speed limits are an arbitrary number. If it is snowing, raining, heavy traffic, foggy, night, it may be dangerous to drive the speed limit, but not illegal. Conversely, if it is clear, dry and light traffic, exceeding the speed limit is safe, however, not legal.
Also, bear in mind that in some places it is legal for a motorcyclist, or bicycle to run a red light. Often intersections with a traffic light have coil sensors in the roadway to sense a vehicle at the intersection. It works kind of like the crossing button on the light pole that pedestrians use to trigger the light to change for them to cross. If you are on a bicycle, or a motorcycle, you may have to sit at the intersection until a car comes up behind or beside you to trigger this coil sensor before the light will change. This, obviously, could take quite some time.
Not to be argumentative about the use of statistics, but if you are going to state statistics concerning the number of deaths due to cars vs. the number of deaths due to cyclists just using the raw numbers is misleading. If you do not account for the number of cars and the number of cyclists on the road, the raw numbers are meaningless. How many deaths per 1,000 cars vs deaths per 1,000 cyclists on a typical road is accurate and revealing of the true problem. Both cyclists and drivers of cars behave badly. Both in the strict sense - absolutely obaying the law, regardless of the seeming uselessness of the law (stop sign, speed limit) at a particular time - and in the common sense. I'm not arguing that point, nor the right of a cyclists or a driver to be obedient or careless.
My second point was mentioned but I believe needs more emphasis - the risk taken by the driver vs. the cyclist. Workers along roadways are equally at risk as pedestrians, and cyclists. Laws have been changed to provide them with greater "protection" as the penalty for speeding in a work zone results in the loss of your license after the second offense. I'm not claiming that that works, but it does make a statement of intent and concern by the "authorities." That doesn't exist for cyclists, and should.
I remember an interesting article describing a professor in England that typically cycled to and from work. He recorded the number of incidents - threats to his safety - when he wore a helmet and reflective clothing vs. when he road without a helmet and clothing that offered no added visability to the motorists. Surprisingly, he experienced more incidents of threats when he dressed "safely" (helmet and reflective clothing) than when he didn't wear a helmet and didn't wear reflective clothing!
Finally, I cycle in NYC's Central Park. Since that accident last year the police have been ticketing cyclist that speed and that ride through red lights. Early winter the speed limit (for cyclists and cars) was reduced from 25 mph to 20 mph. I frequently speak to the police and the Parks Enforcement personnel. The number of tickets issued to pedestrians you can count on 1 hand for the year. The number of tickets issued to cyclists is significant. Most of the danger and accidents (although not all) in Central Park are caused by (1) pedestrians not obeying the rules/laws, and (2) cyclists riding recklessly (mostly tourists on rental bikes).
I don't know what the answer is, it's impossible to get either the tourists, pedestrians or cyclists to be aware of each other. Ticketing doesn't work, isn't inforced evenly. New Yorkers will also wait for a traffic light to turn green (more usually for traffic to allow them to cross - green light or not) by standing in the lane of traffic, and creeping forward (even with baby carriages). There is no concern that that 4,000 lb. piece of steel speed down the street may actually not stop and will hit them. They have a right to cross the street when they want to. That approach is pervacive. And remember cyclists are also pedestrians and drivers too.
We have a very hard time being considerate of each other. I don't know how we can change that!
The word "countersteering" seems to surface repeatedly to describe a good technique for turning, but it is the wrong noun. Countersteering is a technique for initiating a turn by momentarily steering counter to the desired direction; the front wheel reacts by turning in the desired direction.
After years ago having learned the technique the article describes from a cycling handbook, I always use it when descending at any significant speed. But I don't always deliberately countersteer.
I first commented on this at RBR on 03/17/2011; RBR's search mechanism finds my original comment but doesn't make it possible to read it!
Trying to give verbal instructions is difficult, especially for something like counter steering. Diagrams, photos or a video might make this more understandable, but as an engineer much of it did not make sense. I don’t have an opinion about whether counter steering is good or bad. Here are my issues with what was written:
· Assume the Position – It says that by moving your butt back you weight your front wheel, then it says if you don’t move your butt back you won’t weight your front wheel. But moving weight back will result in less weight on the front wheel, this is backwards.
· Weight on the Outside Pedal – It says that by raising your hips off the saddle and putting your weight on the outside pedal you are lowering your center of gravity. This will affect where force is applied to the bicycle, but center of gravity has nothing to do with where your weight is applied and everything to do with where your body located is so you are actually raising your center of gravity.
· Push In on the Inside Knee – This refers again to your enter of gravity being low and centered. The only thing you have done to lower center of gravity is bending lower over the bike. It still has nothing to do with where your weight is applied to the bicycle.
· Press and Pull to Make the Turn – It says that your body remains relatively upright, but in Assume the Position you were instructed to lower your body along the top tube. How can you be any less upright than having your body along the top tube?
I don't see that trying to inject things like center of gravity does anyting but confuse things, why not just say do this and then do that?
Contrary to the article and lots of casual conversation, presssing down on one pedal or the other does not affect the center of gravity. It may aid stabilty but unless you move significant body parts lower, the C of G does not move. The center of gravity comments just confuse the discussion.
Judy's comment reminded me of one step I neglected to mention in doing my cycling laundry in my motel room. After washing and rinsing my clothes in a wastebasket, I roll them tightly in dry towels and stomp on them to wring as much water out as possible. They will then dry much faster.
I appreciate the good tips for improving turns, but the center of gravity of the rider/bike unit does not change by simply shifting your weight from one pedal to the other. Moving the rider's mass, by moving towards the back of the saddle and by the other movements you list, is what changes the center of gravity.
I was told to keep the tubes in the box, but what is being said about freezer bags and powder does seem to make sense. I would think, however, that the box would provide a bit better cushion for the tube??
Don't know this, but just surmising that the box is a better protectorate than a flimsy plastic bag?
It depends on what you're doing with the tube. If it's in your saddle bag with tools, the more protection the better so an allen key doesn't wear a hole in your spare. I wrap my spare tubes in a piece of cloth for protection and also put my multi-tool in a cloth bag. The cloth piece around the tubes also makes a convenient place to put tools and tire levers when changing a flat by the side of the road.
If the tubes are on a shelf in your workshop, a plastic bag should be fine.
I use an old cycling sock for protecting two tubes. Roll tubes as small as possible, place one in the bottom of the sock, twist the sock, place the other tube in the sock, twist again and lay them both next to each other, fold the top of the stock over the two tubes. They are now protected from stuff in the bag and each other. The sock can be used as emergency TP. Don't put the tubes back in the sock after though!
I typically only carry one tube and a small patch kit, along with a pump and other tools. I put the tube in the toe of an old cotton sock, do the same twist and put the tools in the upper half of the sock. This keeps two layers of fabric between the tools and the tube, plus it also helps keep things from rattling on rough roads. I can't say that I've ever used the sock as emergency TP, but I have often used them to wipe the grease off my hands after doing a chain repair.
I always enjoy Dr. Mirkin's articles, his advice and information just seems logical to me. In the article this week he says:
"Depending on how sore your muscles feel, take the next day off or go at a very slow pace. Do not attempt to train for muscle burning again until the soreness has gone away completely".
But in the article you published last week he said:
"I am 80 years old and plan to continue to do my intense weekly bicycling program:
•very fast intervals three days a week,
•race as fast as I can over 25 to 30 miles three days, and
•take one day off. I do not do slow, junk miles."
I'm having a little trouble reconciling these 2 statements. Could we possibly get an explanation?
I'd just like to make a couple of comments:
1 - Weighting the outside pedal does not lower one's center of gravity, as it does not lower your weight close to the ground. That's just basic physics. It's not like the "spare tire" around one's waist is suddenly wrapped around one's ankle when the pedal is weighted. OTOH, lowering your torso closer to the top tube does lower your center of gravity, since your body is actually getting closer to the ground.
Weighting the outside pedal does change the center of pressure on the frame, but it's difficult to say if that actually affects cornering. What weighting does do it take weight off the saddle and permit one to move around on the bike.
2 - A simpler and more intuitive method of countersteering (in my opinion) is to press downward gently on the inside of the bar. It accomplishes the same thing as pulling upward on the outside of the bar, but it also pushes the bike downward without having to think about thigh pressure.
In reality, what both methods are doing is just changing the amount of pressure on one end of the bar relative to the other. In this process, the bar is turned away from the direction of the the turn, which causes the bike to fall toward the turn. It's just a deliberate version of what one does unconciously everytime a turn is initiated.
Thanks for your perspective on countersteering. My approach to this techniqe is indebted to two former American pro riders, Davis Phinney and Ron Kiefel. They taught this technique at the Carpenter-Phinney Bike Camps and stressed weighting the outside pedal as indeed you should no matter what cornering technique you choose.
While doing so may not change the center of gravity in a technical sense, as you observe it does change the way the bike feels in the corner. I find that the harder I step on the outside pedal, the more secure my cornering becomes. The old advice to step on that pedal like you want to break it off seems about right.
I agree with you that pressing on the inside of the bar is effective and that's another technique that Ron and Davis taught at their camps.
...that I am in any way saying that one should not weight the outside pedal. I agree with you completely that whatever the reason, it does make cornering feel much more secure and I use the technique all the time. I was just pointing out that it does not actually lower one's center of gravity, which is the most common reason given for doing it. Like other aspects of bicycle dynamics, this does not appear to be a well-understood or well-researched topic, it's just something that cyclists have learned to do.
The concept of countersteering is relatively easy to understand and makes perfect sense, as I explained above.
That's been my question to because where I live in north east Indiana we had the 5th coldest winter on record, and last year we had the largest amount of snow on record for a winter. Warm? I only wish!
Lovely workmanship and certainly amazingly artistic. Utility value? Hmmm.
How about covering some of the numerous hand-made bike buiders we're blessed with around the country or the rest of the world. The level of craftsmanship and artistry is equally high among those making bikes out of less unusual materials. And they're likely far more affordable to many more cyclists.
Renovo Design in Portland Oregon has been making high performance, hollow frame, hardwood bikes since 2007. Our bikes have competed in the Ironman World Championships on Kona, Hawaii, the Race Across America, the California Triple Crown and many other events. We have more than 600 owners worldwide from South Africa to Nova Scotia, from Alaska to Belize. We make road, endurance, gravel, touring, triathlon and mountain bikes. renovobikes.com
Oh, but if I had the money!!! So very tempting to get one. I didn't know of the existence of this bicycle builder...and so close to me here in Illinois, too!
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