Comment on Newsletter
Better Commuter bikes
Jim- I love your articles and learn a ton from them. But I think you are way out in left field on commuter bikes. As cyclists, we encourage others to ride, then turn around and treat commuting like it isn't "real cycling". Like most Americans, my daily commute by car is ~15 miles, and when I commute by bike (as I do every day possible), it is 20+ miles to use cycling friendly roads. A beater, mountain bike, etc. is not practical. And frankly, since my commuting miles make up a majority of my weekly mileage, why would I want to spend that time on anything less than my best bike?
I am in the market now to upgrade from my entry-level road bike, and have been very disappointed to find (so far) only 2 carbon fiber bikes that have eyelets for rear racks (the Jamis Endura Comp and the Trek Madone 3.1). I've contacted several other bike manufacturers about seat post mounted racks and other options, and they all discourage it.
Commuting needs to be treated like any other cycling- just because we carry a few extra pounds of clothes, food, and computer doesn't lessen it. I hope major bike manufacturers start coming up with better options for commuters on their higher end bikes.
beater bike
Another reason for an older bike is for winter commuting. My "beater bike" is a '93 Kona Cinder Cone, Deore LX 7-speed, cro-mo frame. I haven't tallied the total mileage but it is probably has something like 80000 miles on it (many parts have been replaced). I can't bring myself to replace it with a "newer" bike with lighter frame and components because I ride in some nasty conditions in the winter. I really prefer the durability of older 7-speed or less drive train. I only ride my Campy 10-speed for events and occastional training ride. Also I was T-boned pretty hard by an SUV on this bike about 8 years ago, any other frame construction than cro-mo would have ended up in the dumpster.
bike commuting
I use my road bike as my commute is 30 miles each way, could not stomach 30 miles on a 3 speed 30 lb bike. Fortunatly I am able to bring my bike into work and keep it in a huge storage area were it is very safe.
Commuting/Unracing
Suggest Eben Weiss' (BIke Snob NYC) new book, "The Enlighted Cyclist" for superb wit and wisdom on commuting and riding in general. Every rider will get a kick out of his perspectives. His earlier book "Bike Snob" is also hilariously smart.
Another great read recently published is Grant Peterson's "Just Ride" which will undoubtedly offend many in the hard-core Lycra/Carbon society. If you do read it, try understanding how the definition of cycling has been greatly narrowed by a rather exteme racing-centric perspective and well reinforced by bike marketers. The book is also lots of fun with wide-ranging info for cyclists of all points of view and experience levels.
I don't get it
I know and like Grant, and enjoy his often different take on cycling, Ford, but I can't get into the Bike Snob stuff. One of the greatest things about cycling is that there's room for every type of bike and rider. IMHO there's no need for anyone to make fun of anyone else for any reason - even if it's supposed to be funny.
speed wobble
I have found that rather than evening out your weight distribution, you should put all your weight on the bottom pedal, and especially unweight the handlebars. If you put most of your weight on the saddle, it will wobble more. Some bike are worse than others, you can get an idea how bad your bike is just by coasting at about 20mph with no hands on the bars and putting most of your weight on the saddle only. Some bikes will wobble even under those conditions.
speed wobble
If your bike shimmies while loaded with panniers you can use a trailer to carry your gear.
Commuter bike
I disagree that commuter bikes need to be "beaters" or some cast-off relic from the 70's. I certainly agree that using some crazy-expensive, fragile carbon ride that's only good for racing doesn't make sense. It wouldn't last. But unless your bike commute is only occasional and just a mile or two each way, a comparatively clunky bike isn't going to encourage use or be much daily fun. I ride the train with lots of daily cycling commuters and their bikes generally aren't old beaters. They ride an amzing assortment of gear. Mountain bikes without suspension make lots of sense, especially swapping smooth tires for knobbies. Sport/touring models with adequate clearance for fenders are even better, unless you live where it never rains or will opt for the car if it does. If you've ever been to Europe or perhaps Japan, you'll see very nice commuting bikes everywhere. Yes, as with single-use racing bikes, you can spend a wad on commuters but why does it have to be a jalopy? Commuter bikes can easily be ridden any where, any time, with any shoes. You might even discover a whole new more enjoyable world of cycling beyond the Lycra/Carbon/Speed scene. Create a comfortable-fitting, good performing commuter bike that you'll enjoy and requires no apologies. Encounter an entirely different kind of cycling focused on riding for the fun if it, as well as getting to your workplace.
I'm with Ford on this
While I won't argue the merits of the 3-speed route, because Spokane has some hilly terrain that already discourages folks from riding more, I will support the beater route for the new commuter. We have a local organization, Pedals 2 People, that has a "build a beater" program. The last I checked, they charged $50 for full access to all the parts and tools needed to build a bike from the parts they have in stock. Someone is probably riding around on my old Novara Arriba setup as I type, or so I hope.
I'm one of those who has a dedicated commuter bike, a Soma Double Cross with street tires and full fenders, with enough room for studded tires in the winter, though I do have to take off the rear standard fender and add a removable one because the studs don't leave enough clearance near the bottom bracket. I probably spent more than was necessary, but even then, it's a heck of a lot cheaper than any car (mine stays home as much as possible). Another reason this works for me is I can go on extended rides on the way home. I work on the edge of a state park, and there's a 15-mile loop I can make as part of my "commute." I can extend my commute closer to home as well, getting up to 35 miles out of my ride home if time and weather permits. This isn't the sort of thing I'd want to do on a beater.
Better city bikes
Thanks for making these excellent points about the value of having a nice, dedicated commuting bike, Ford. I'll follow-up with an article about one of my favorite commuters that's a bit more up-to-date than my vintage Raleigh 3-speed and make some of these points. This week I was getting the subject rolling with the used-bike approach. Appreciate you sharing your tips!
Jim
Commuters
Hey Jim, I agree about the beater part, especially here in a college town (Boulder) where theft is rampant. I just think you're shooting for an awfully small target with the old three-speeds. I'm on Craigslist every day looking for commuters and townies for friends and family. First choice is a used hybrid (and admittedly, you need more gears here than in some places). Second choice, used mountain bike with the intent of switching out the tires for something smoother and lighter. It doesn't rain much here, so a rear rack to prevent the dreaded skunk stripe is sufficient coverage for all but the daily die-hard commuter. The standard set-up is a used bike for $75 or so (I like older bikes with very few miles), another $50 in tires, fenders, lock, kickstand, BELL, whatever is needed, and you're ready to roll for $125 or so!
The ideal commuting bike
Appreciate the expert advice on what used bikes make the best commuters in bike-crazy Boulder, Ray. You have a unique infrastructure there where you can choose whether to ride the road, bike paths or even dirt paths - so the bikes you describe are perfect. And with so many bikers there you probably have a booming used bike market compared to smaller places which usually means that the vintage 3-speeds may have gotten taken a long time ago whereas the newer hybrids and used MTBs might be in better supply. Another reason to go that way. So, these are great tips. Thank you, Ray!
Workout when fatigued
How beneficial is an interval workout if it can't be done at maximum effort? My ride last Sunday involved a lot of climbing, 4400 ft in 33 miles and I set a PR on a 13.6 mile climb. The next day I felt pretty good and decided to do an hour long Sufferfest workout but I couldn't sustain the power I usually achieve when rested, falling short by 20-30 watts for the average of the interval. My heart rate was only a little higher than usual but I just couldn't sustain power for the full length of the various intervals. So for that workout I was working about as hard as I could, figuring I must be helping my overall training somehow. Was I right?
intervals
Doing intervals can both help or hurt you depending on the circumstances. On the one hand, it's better to do hard training when you're fresh and rested so you can achieve higher work rates and thus better adaptation. However, sometimes in an event, like a multi-day tour or stage race, you'll have to go hard when you've gone hard in the previous days. If that sort of event is on your schedule, then going hard for several consecutive days is important to teach your body what it needs to know.
There's a mentall component too--going hard when you're tired demands a lot of concentration and focus. If you do it too much you risk burnout.
Hope this helps,
Fred Matheny
eco jersey
"they’re all variations on a theme:... polyester fabric".
Don't forget wool! Several good choices out there (Ibex is great). Wicks like poly and doesn't stink even after several rides.
The Superlight Really Works!
I just wore the Superlight jersey again on a 62-mile ride Saturday afternoon. The entire ride was in the heat of the day, about 86-88 degrees, and the jersey made a noticeable difference. I'm not saying wool is not a great material, too, but I don't think it can be produced in a super-thin form like this. -- John
Pedal Pals
Thanks for including this link. As a brain cancer survivor who spent last summer riding across the US, I find this a very appealing opportunity to talk to young people making the effort for a great cause.
Good Causes Are Easy to Support
Winnie,
You're welcome. I strongly believe in using the forum that RBR has to support worthy cycling causes.
Emma Moody wrote me today to say this:
"I just wanted to say thank you for printing such a great article about Pedal Pals in RBR. We, at the Ulman Cancer Fund, really appreciate it. RBR readers were already signing up yesterday morning! Thank you again and I will keep you updated about the ride!"
It's great to know that RBR readers are participating already! You guys and gals are great!
Thanks for everything you do to support cycling and good causes, alike!
-- John
Speed wobble
Having experienced a rather terrifying shimmy on a descent, and done some subsequent research, my understanding of the causes are quite different from those you mentioned. I read that the bike and the rider together form an elastic system with a natural vibration frequency, and under certain conditions, including crosswinds, the whole system will oscillate. My reaction when it happened was to grip the bars ever more tightly, in an effort to close down the shimmy. This is exactly the wrong thing to do. You need to totally relax your grip on the bars. Next, maybe get off the saddle, to remove yourself from the vibrating system. And you can grip the top tube between your knees. I've never had a repeat dose, perhaps because I habitually ride with a more relaxed grip on the bars these days.
Speed Wobble - Sent for John Bailey
The only two times I have experienced speeed wobble was downhill at 45mph
with a cross wind. I assume the cross wind made my bike behave like the
famous Tacoma Narrows bridge did before its collapse. One day after one
of these experiences I went down a similar hill at 45mph with no cross wind
and no shimmy.
Any comments about this.
John Bailey
Bar height
Coach says "The aero advantage of a low handlebar is overrated. If you can't ride your bike without discomfort, you won't realize the few seconds per mile that better aerodynamics can subtract. Even with a higher bar position, you can always get aero when you need to. Just bend your elbows!"
Someone should tell that to the pros whose handlebars are sometimes 8 inches or more below their saddle.
bar/saddle differential
Yes, pro riders often have a lot of bar/saddle differential. Sometimes it looks like they're riding a time trial bike. There are several reasons why this is so--and also some reasons why most recreational riders shouldn't emulate them.
Pro riders have their bars low because they're young, flexible and skinny. Riders who meet less than 2 out of three of those requirements should consider higher bars. Also, pros need extreme aerodynamic position due to the high speed of the pro peloton. At 30 mph a low bar makes a substantial difference. At 17 mph, not so much. Finally, pro riders are subject to peer pressure just like club riders. They want to look "pro" and the appropriate look right now is a low bar.
Recreational riders are often older, less flexible and probably heavier than pros. They also ride slower. So a higher bar makes sense. But of course it's really individual. Some recreational riders can get away with a
Fred Matheny
Speed Wobble
Over 20 years of cycling and several bikes I have always had a speed wobble at around 35mph. I'm the one that had the wobble not the bikes. As soon as I learned to relaxed my shoulders and arms, I had no problems. Shivering brings it on, too.
low bar/knee pain
Agree with Fred on going back to whatever settings were working. Also suggest lowering the bars relative to seat height is how lots of riders get into trouble and discomfort. This often "stems" (pun intended) from selecting or being sold a frame that's too small for a lot of crazy reasons including incompetent shop sales personnel and/or cycling friends. Nearly every group ride I see seveal people on obviously too-small frames in positions that must be tough to accomodate. One wonders. For mature, non-racing (or racer wannabe) riders, an equal seat and bar height, or even bars slightly higher than the seat, can do wonders for comfort...to your point about the back and hamstring stretching. Looking at most well set-up touring bikes ridden by long-distance riders will often show this more rational and comfortable seat-to-bar relationship. Of course if your cycling is around town to the coffee shop, then nearly any position or size frame witl likely do. If you're a young, elite athelete, the classic, flat-back position, with a higher seat may work...for a few years.
Bar height
When I built my present bike a year or so ago I fitted it with an adjustable stem initially, so I could determine what worked best. Being older (68) and having a so-so back, I started with quite a high setting, just a little lower than the saddle. Then I dropped it by 5 cm, and I liked it better - so that's what I've settled on - it's now 9cm below the saddle. The main issue I notice is neck: it's more of a strain to keep looking up the road, I don't notice any back strain.
low bar/knee pain
On a related subject, I ride/race both my compact geometry race bike and do some training on a traditional geometry fixed gear. I can't get the positions set exactly the same but I was thinking I would be better to have a slight change from bike to bike rather and switch what I ride often so my body doesn't "settle into just one position". Is there any merit to this thinking? Am I giving something up? I am a 53 yr old Master/cat3 racer.
varying position
I suppose some bike fitters would suggest that every bike should be set up exactly the same but I find that small changes in reach and height of the bars doesn't make much difference. Our tandem has bars higher than on our single bikes and of course my mtn bike has higher bars than my road bike. I don't notice problems from this small discrepancy. I'm not sure it helps keep me from being injured but it's possible.
Fred Matheny
special gloves
A while back I hyperextended a finger and tore a ligament requiring the finger to be immobilized. I took a commercially available aluminum finger splint and cut it down to make it narrower. I then taped it to my finger. I could jam my finger into most gloves and the finger finally healed properly. I think gloves solving your problem would be pretty bulky
All that fancy structured training ...
OK, every other week comes along another nice neat set of structured intervals, go hard for X then coast for Y. <br>
Problem for us mere mortals is, red lights, hills that end before you're done, etc. Ever notice, you can never get exactly the target time before something gets in the way?<br>
So, what's the scoop: does it REALLY matter, especially the "coast" time?
intervals
That's a great question. If you're looking at training from a scientific perspective, the length of the hard effort combined with the rest period definitely matters. By manipulating the amount of time you're going hard with the time you're going easier you can get some impressive training adaptations for specific goals in a short time.
But in a "real world" sense it isn't as important. Look at it this way: a bike race, a century or a competitive ride with friends doesn't require efforts of a structured length combined with specific periods of going easier. Instead, efforts are all over the map--2 minutes hard up a hill, 25 minutes of easier cruising the a pack, a 15-second really hard effort after a corner, then maybe a 10-minute TT effort to get back to the pack after a rest stop.
An interval session of 5 x 3 minutes on/ 3 minutes easy doesn't really prepare you for the varied demands of a real ride or race. So it makes sense to do intervals with a wide range of time for your hard efforts as well as varying rest periods.
The same goes for the intensity of the intervals. Some should be hard in small gears, others hard in big gears; on hills, on the flats, into the wind, downhill, etc. The more varied your harder efforts, and the more varied the amount of recovery you get, the better prepared you'll be for the random efforts of a race or competitive ride.
Fred Matheny
Sidi alternative
I've been a Sidi user (road and MTB) for nearly 20 years, but I was never able to get a perfect fit with their road shoes. My Ergos were getting worn and I decided to do a serious search for a better fit. After trying pretty much all the major brands, I settled on the Bontrager RXXXL road shoes (the standard white version, not the red Limited Edition), since they fit me better than Sidis. The sole is very stiff, but comfortable. They a half-pound lighter than my Ergos and $200 cheaper than the Ergo 3s! They also come with Bontrager's 30-day comfort guarantee that allows you to return or exchange them within 30 days if you're not satisfied with the fit. We'll see how well they hold up over time, but so far, I'm very impressed with them. Fit, comfort, weight, price and guarantee; it's a win all the way around as far as I'm concerned.
Special Gloves
Hi, Paul - I had to put together something a bit similar a few years ago, when I developed basalar joint osteoarthritis in my thumbs - when the hands are acting up, and if the thumbs move in certain planes relative to my hands, oy, it hurts!! I actually stuck with cycling gloves by (1) having my physical therapist mold some soft braces from a putty-like material that is heat-activated; we molded the putty around my hands while I held them generally as I'd do on my road bike. I use a bit of tape to keep the bracing on each hand. (2) I then got regular biking gloves one size up, to fit over the braces. Using a softer material provides a bit of "give" so I can still flex somewhat, still do a pinch-grip and shift on the bike, while preventing my inadvertently moving my hands in directions that hurt. Hope you're able to put together a solution - good luck!
Special Gloves
It seems to me that if you were considering those hocky gloves - which have the pinky and ring fingers together - but they were too bulky to allow shifing your 105's, why don't you sew together those 2 fingers on a pair of long-fingered cycling gloves?
I hope that could work for you Paul.
Special Gloves
Thanks I will look to see if I can find a retailer in the UK that supplies Heat Activated Plastic.
Regards
Paul
Speedplay specific shoes
From the shoe review:
"Shoes with Speedplay-compatible soles are pretty new."
Actually that's not _quite_ the case. Speedplays were designed to fit the original Time Equipe two-piece cleat design which mounted with four bolts. I had a first generation set of Speedplays mounted up to my old red and white Time Equipe shoes back in the early 90s. I never ran the three bolt adapters.
Good Speedplay trivia!
Thanks for reminding me about those old Time shoes and providing the cool trivia that Speedplays were designed for them. If I knew that back when I had those shoes I had forgotten it. I rode Time pedals with those shoes but remember the 2-part cleats. I bet that was an efficient Speedplay setup, too, because those Time shoes were very stiff. Thanks!
Jim
Low-Tech Training
I stopped using a computer when it started telling me things that I didn't want to hear, like, "I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid that I can't do that...uh...I mean, you can't do that..."
My Phone Talks to Me, Too!
I use the Cyclemeter iPhone app, have for 2-3 years. After the most recent upgrade was downloaded, it started talking to me -- even though I didn't change the settings to request that. I only take it out of my pocket when I get home from a ride anyway, so it doesn't bother me too much. Yet. -- John
Special Gloves
That's a very interesting question (what gloves can prevent finger hyperextension injuries). I found these goalie gloves that, while still bulky, could actually pass as winter riding gloves - and they have the finger "backbone" technology. Any glove designed to prevent that injury would have to be full fingered to offer the greatest support, I would think.
http://www.worldsoccershop.com/31847.html
I've never seen any similar tech in gloves for other sports. I still wonder, though, if it would actually prevent your injury, given the large amount of force your probably crashed with.
Weather on the Wet Coast
In response to your comments about how much warmer the weather has been in 'most of North America' - let me point out that in Vancouver BC at least, it's been noticeably cooler this spring. This morning, I started riding at 7 AM in 5 C temps (that is a little above 40 degrees, for anyone who's Celsius illiterate :) ). Please send some of that warm 'eastern' weather our way!
Contador and honour
HA!
In the words from the epic classic road bike racing movie "American Flyers" which featured Kevin Costner who "has a moustache and everything"
Contador wouldn't know honour "if it banged him all night long"
talking about bikes
you can’t have a meaningful conversation with your non-cycling significant other about the relative merits of a compact crank, or your preferred brand of chain lube.
I find this paragraph of your editorial blandly assumptive and patronizing. You can have a meaningful conversation with your non-cycling significant other provided that you listen carefully, answer honestly and you support your "other" in any and all of his interests which are beyond your immediate interests. I do converse meaningfully with my husband, an engineer and project manager in the oil industry, about the concerns pros and cons of his career and the technical jobs he manages, even though I don't know every single technical term. Likewise he is able to appreciate the ups and downs of my riding, training and cross country rides . All it takes is a bit of generosity and intelligence.
You don't often get it wrong but this time you need to rethink.
Ms. marni harang who is a devoted roadie married to a non biker.
Thanks, Marni!
Gosh, I didn't intend that comment to taken as patronizing. My wife and I celebrated our 20th anniversary earlier this year and have talked -- and listened -- plenty to each other's work and play stories. I really just meant that most non-cycling spouses, from what I've heard from my cycling buddies, are not interested in the minituae of what we sometimes like to discuss. Thus, we discuss it with each other. (My wife, for one, would roll her eyes at me if I mentioned chain lube.....) -- John
Hemorrhoids
Most hemorrhoids treatments available over the counter are 'Water Based'. They don't do much to treat the cause of the burning and itchiness, ie, the microscopic leakage from tha anus. Hence the ensymes that break down your food end up breaking down the skin around your anus! An easy solution is, after toilet, have a shower, then apply a very tiny amount of ordinary vaseline around and slightly inside the anus. Relief is almost immediate.
A carb drink that wont make you sick
Two, actually. I recomend Secret Drink Mix www.skratchlabs.com/ and a lot of pros agree. Alan Lim was instrumental in developing it. It is not yucky sweet, but it hydrates and has some carbs. I also like CarboRocket www.carborocket.com . Like SDM, it does not leave a sweet taste in your maouth. You can drink CarboRocket all day and still look forward to the next swig!
Guilty about a warm March or April?
I have no idea what this means! If you feel guilty enjoying unseasonably warm or dry weather, you can come up here to the great rainy Pacific Northwest. We have seen niether hide nor hair of any warm or dry weather. I am thinking of getting pontoons for my road bike - fenders are not enough!
Aeolus wheels
I bought a pair of Aeolus wheels off a friend and noticed this year that I am going downhill faster than ever, passing people who are heavier than I am. I haven't gained weight so the only explanation I can come up with is the wheels are that much more aero and therefore I'm faster that is especially evident at the high speeds reached during descents. Just anecdotal data but likely evidence of wind cheating going on.r2k4g
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