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Three
Essential Techniques for Roadies
By Fred Matheny for www.RoadBikeRider.com
Pro athletes develop simple
techniques that become automatic. A three-point shooter’s follow through or
a golfer’s silky stroke are techniques they’ve honed until they no longer
think about them.
Pro cyclists, too, develop
characteristics that separate how they look on a bike from the rest of us. It’s
not simply a matter of appearance. Unlike golf, when you’re riding, you can
get scuffed up out there. Looking like a pro means safety as well as style.
Want the look? Master these
three techniques and you’ll be on your way.
1. Relax. Great
athletes in any sport let it flow, making impossible moves and extreme effort
look easy. Here’s how to be loose as a goose on the bike:
2. Pedal Smoothly. It’s easy to spot the smooth pedal stroke of a pro compared to a novice’s
lumpy plodding. Here’s how to get supple stroke:
-
Remember
Mud. Three-time Tour de France winner Greg LeMond first
gave us this tip in 1985, and it’s just as helpful today: When you
pull your foot through the bottom of the stroke, imagine you’re
scraping mud off your shoe. This will help you pull your foot through
smoothly with added power. Try it and see how well it works.
3. Recover Fast.
Pro riders can do a three-week race and go just as hard on Day 20 as in the
prologue time trial. Here’s how to recover like a stage racer:
-
Pump
Fluids.
The loss of as little as one percent of body weight as sweat can
compromise your performance. So drink at least one bottle of sports
drink each hour you’re on the bike. After the ride, drink more until
your weight is back to normal. If you aren’t getting up twice each
night to urinate, you aren’t sufficiently hydrated.
-
Rest.
Pros sleep nine or ten hours a night and often take an afternoon nap
after training. We can’t do that because we have real jobs and the
boss would frown. But because sufficient rest is crucial to recovery,
try to fit in at least eight restful hours of sleep each night and catch
a 15-minute “power nap” in the afternoon.
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FREE copy of the
eBook “29 Pro Cycling Secrets for Roadies” by subscribing to the
RoadBikeRider Newsletter at www.RoadBikeRider.com. No cost or obligation!
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By Fred Matheny for www.RoadBikeRider.com
Got your basic riding
techniques well in hand? Now learn three advanced moves that come in handy and
raise your skills to a new level.
1. Ride No-Hands
Pro cyclists can ride
no-hands in the middle of the pack on a twisty descent. Don’t try it!
Sometimes, however, you’ll need two hands free to peel an energy bar or peel
off a vest. Here’s how:
-
Pick
a Place.
Look for a straight stretch of road without obstacles like potholes or
side streets. Sit up and take your hands off the bar, ready to grip
again as you test your balance. When you’re ready, sit up fully and
drop your hands to your sides. Most riders find it easier to maintain
balance while pedaling smoothly than while coasting.
-
Be
Careful.
Riding no-hands where you live may be illegal, and it certainly can be
dangerous. Practice in an empty parking lot or back street before taking
your act on the open road. Unless you have pro-level skills, don’t
ride no-hands in a paceline until you’re last in line.
2.
Remove Arm Warmers While Riding
Now that you can ride no-hands, it’s easy to
remove arm warmers without stopping. The only problem might be losing one
while stuffing them into your jersey pocket. Here, courtesy of seven-time Tour
de France rider Ron Kiefel, is how to keep them together.
1. Pull down warmers. Riding with one hand on the bar, pull down that arm’s
warmer to your wrist. Switch hands on the bar, then do the same with the
other warmer.
2. Remove first warmer. Ride no-hands. With
your right hand, grasp the cuff of the left warmer and pull it off so it
hangs from your right hand.
3. Remove second warmer. Use your left hand
to pull off the right warmer while
still grasping the left arm warmer in the right hand. Voila! One
arm warmer is neatly tucked in the other. Fold the resulting sausage in
thirds and tuck it in your jersey pocket.
3.
Hop Over a Pothole
Ever get trapped near the
curb by a passing car or other riders—and there’s a gaping pothole right
in your path? The only escape is up and over. Here’s how pro roadies fly
above obstacles (including fallen riders).
-
Assume
the Position. As you approach the obstacle, coast with crankarms
horizontal. Stand on the pedals with your butt several inches off the
saddle. Your weight should be evenly distributed between your hands and
feet. Think of being like a cat—or a basketball player in a defensive
stance—ready to uncoil.
-
Spring
and Lift. As you reach the obstacle, crouch rapidly by bending
your knees and elbows, then spring upwards like you’re jumping. Pull
up equally with your hands and feet so the bike comes with you.
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eBook “29 Pro Cycling Secrets for Roadies” by subscribing to the
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How
to Ride in a Group
By Fred Matheny for www.RoadBikeRider.com
Pacelines are organized. They
have specific rules. But in big groups like you find in centuries or charity
rides, things will be disorganized. This can intimidate even experienced
riders.
Sooner or later you’ll find
yourself in a big group amid some riders with sketchy skills. It pays to learn
how to survive (and also make yourself welcome) in a crowd.
-
Look
for Risky Riders.
These are the unsteady people who wobble, appear nervous, have a tense
grip on the handlebar, and frequently grab the brakes. Avoid them! Move
up to keep them behind you, or slide to the other side of the road.
-
Watch
the Wind.
Wind direction determines on which side the greatest draft is found. If
the wind is from the right side of the road, smart riders move to the
left of the wheel in front of them for greater protection. If you’re
doing this, beware of overlapping wheels with inexperienced riders. They
may swerve and take out your front wheel.
-
Be
Wary on Climbs. A major cause of group crashes is riders
who stand abruptly. They slow for a second, causing the rider behind to
hit their rear wheel and spill. To avoid this danger, let the gap open a
bit on hills or ride a foot to either side.
To avoid being the
one who causes such a crash, pull your bike forward as you leave the saddle.
Don’t lunge and make a hard pedal stroke. Keep your speed steady. When
sitting again, push the bike forward a bit.
Cycling isn’t a contact
sport, but it’s not uncommon to have your arm brushed when riding near
others in a group. It pays to learn how to bump into other riders without
swerving or falling. It’s easy when you practice this drill used at the
Carpenter-Phinney Bike Camps.
First, go with a cycling friend to a large grassy area like a soccer
field. Ride side-by-side at a walking pace. Keep both hands on your
bar. Start by gently touching elbows, then shoulders. As you gain confidence,
lean more vigorously on the other rider. Soon, you’ll be bumping each other
with abandon and throwing in a few head butts for fun, all without going down.
(Of course, always wear your helmet just in case.)
Riding relaxed is the key to
absorbing contact without swerving. Have slightly bent elbows, a
firm-not-tight grip on the bar, and loose arm and shoulder muscles. If you’re
relaxed, your body can absorb the shock before it gets to the handlebar.
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eBook “29 Pro Cycling Secrets for Roadies” by subscribing to the
RoadBikeRider Newsletter at www.RoadBikeRider.com. No cost or obligation!
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Sports
Medicine Tips from an Expert
By Fred Matheny for www.RoadBikeRider.com
Andy Pruitt’s name has
become synonymous with sports medicine for cycling. As director of the
Boulder Center for
Sports Medicine in Boulder, CO, Pruitt has made a career out of treating
world-class riders such as Lance Armstrong and George Hincapie. In 1996,
Pruitt served as chief medical officer for the U.S. Olympic Cycling Team.
Pruitt is an elite athlete in
his own right, too. He lost his lower leg in a hunting accident at age 14 but
still wrestled and participated in track, eventually winning 12 high school
varsity letters. When he took up cycling he earned a category 2 ranking in
able-bodied racing and was twice a world champion in disabled cycling.
But the Boulder Center isn’t
reserved for elite clients. Pruitt wanted to develop a sports medicine center
equal to any university or Olympic training facility but available to
recreational athletes of any age. That’s what he has accomplished
Here’s a sampling of Pruitt’s
sports medicine wisdom.
-
Floating
Pedals. "In the late eighties, the cycling injury rate soared
due to step-in pedals. The old, slotted cleats and soft leather cycling
shoes allowed feet quite a bit of movement, but the newer step-in cleats
and more rigid shoes with a heel counter locked feet in one position.
Now the injury rate has gone way down due to cleats that float, allowing
each foot to find its best position on the pedal.”
-
Bike
Fit.
“I’ve done thousands of bike fits. Much is made of saddle height and
saddle fore-and-aft position. It’s true—they’re important. But the
reach to the handlebar along with the height difference between the bar
and the saddle are the two most personal aspects of bike fit. If they
aren’t right, you’ll be miserable. We’re seeing more riders who
want to raise their handlebars for increased comfort.”
-
Patellar
Tendinitis.
“Strain of the tendons around the knee often happens in the early
season when riders get caught out in the cold and wind and decide to get
home fast. They push a big gear, maybe they aren’t wearing leg
warmers, and the next morning they have an ominous twinge. The problem
is that in the early season, your muscles can bear a lot more strain
than your connective tissue.”
-
Saddle
Position. “Greg
LeMond has extremely long femurs. His kneecaps are slightly above his
ankles. So for him a bike with a slack seat tube angle, a long top tube,
and the saddle jammed all the way back is appropriate. But most people
aren’t built that way. For example, Ron Kiefel moved his saddle back
when a famous pro he admired told him he’d be faster if he did. Ron
didn’t get faster, instead he got severe back pain and missed several
weeks of racing. The moral of this story: Let your femur length
determine your saddle position, not your hero.”
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eBook “29 Pro Cycling Secrets for Roadies” by subscribing to the
RoadBikeRider Newsletter at www.RoadBikeRider.com. No cost or obligation!
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How
to Find Time for Cycling
By Fred Matheny for www.RoadBikeRider.com
We
shouldn’t feel excessive admiration for pro racers who log 600-mile weeks.
They have plenty of time to ride and recover—that’s their job. The real
heroes are people like you, who find time to ride while still having a life
away from the bike.
Full-time
work, family commitments and cycling can be efficiently interwoven into your
busy day. All it takes to schedule everything into 24 hours is maximum use of
time-budgeting techniques.
Here’s
where to look for time slots that can accommodate your love for riding:
Riding
your bike to work or school and back may be the best way to create time
cycling time.
When you commute by bike, time normally spent sitting in
a car is used productively as part of the training day. An eight-mile
ride to work or school takes about 30 minutes each way. Even if you do no
other riding, that’s still an hour of cycling each weekday. The trip home
can be lengthened as much as time, daylight and energy allow.
Another
benefit is arriving at your job refreshed and alert. It may be tough to get up
earlier for the ride in, but the physical and mental lift of exercise will
carry you through that 10 a.m. letdown that your sedentary colleagues
experience. Then you ride home, clearing cobwebs and blowing away job-related
frustrations. You’re refreshed and ready for evening responsibilities or
family fun.
Commuting
Logistics
-
Play
on the way home.
Scout out a longer route and ride for an hour or more as time and
commitments allow. Do intervals, time trials, or hit the hills hard to
get a great workout while you’re homeward bound.
If commuting simply won't work for you, here
are two popular options:
Early
Bird Special
Consider
an early-morning workout. By the middle of March it’s usually light enough
to get in a ride before work. At dawn there are few cars on the road and the
day is brightening every minute.
Getting
up in the pre-dawn hour may be the ultimate test of whether you really want to
ride. Roll out of bed the minute the alarm rings and don’t think about
anything. The longer you lie there moaning about how early it is, the harder
it is to extricate yourself from the sheets.
Sleep loss is the biggest risk. Make up the deficit with
an earlier bedtime because it’s vital to get enough rest. Lack of sleep can
lead to deep fatigue and poor performance in everything you do.
Evening
Rides
If
your schedule prohibits riding most of the day, try from 9 to 10 or 10:30 p.m.
For most people, the kids are in bed, the chores around the house complete,
and you’re probably wasting time watching TV.
To
make this work, eat a moderate dinner at 6 or 7 p.m., allowing the food to
digest by riding time. As an additional benefit this provides motivation not
to overeat.
Riding
in the dark used to be dangerous because lights were poor. You couldn’t see
road hazards clearly, and motorists couldn’t see you. Modern lighting
systems make night riding safer, but it’s still smart to use lighted
parks or suburban streets if they’re available.
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eBook “29 Pro Cycling Secrets for Roadies” by subscribing to the
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How
to Ride in a Paceline
By Fred Matheny for www.RoadBikeRider.com
Solo
rides are a great part of the cycling experience. Nothing beats cruising along
and looking at the scenery, or attacking a climb at your own pace and
intensity.
But
riding with a small group can be even more fun. You cover ground faster, meet
people, and experience the thrill of shared effort.
Paceline
riding isn’t difficult to learn. Here are the basic skills:
1.
Riding a Straight Line
Start by learning to ride like you’re on a rail.
Practice by holding your line during solo rides. Put your wheel on the road’s
white edge line and keep it there. Relax your upper body, keep a light grip on
the handlebar, and fix your peripheral vision on the line. Keep your actual
focus 20 or 30 feet in front of the bike. Remember, the bike will go where
your eyes go.
2.
Following a Wheel
Drafting another rider saves you at least 15
percent in energy output. It’s foolish to be bucking the wind all the time
when you’re with other riders. Share the work by drafting them and letting
them draft you.
Position your front
wheel 1 to 3 feet behind the rear wheel you’re following. The closer the
better, in terms of the draft, but closer also requires a lot more attention.
When necessary, turn the cranks without putting pressure on the pedals (“soft
pedal”) to maintain correct spacing.
Use
the brakes sparingly. Jerky braking creates chain reaction problems for riders
behind you. If you need to brake, feather the levers lightly instead of
clutching at them.
If
a gap opens, don’t make things worse by accelerating too hard, overrunning
the wheel in front, then grabbing the brakes. Instead, ease back up to the
rider in front. If you don’t become proficient at following a wheel, you can
waste more energy than you save by constant yo-yoing.
Look past the rider directly in front. Don’t stare down
at his rear wheel or you won’t see things that may cause him to brake or
swerve.
3.
Paceline
Pointers
First
rule: Be predictable. Close riding demands that everyone be on the same
wavelength. There must be a basic understanding of what is and is not expected
behavior in a given circumstance. Experience helps.
Don’t
accelerate when it’s your turn at the front. Note your cyclecomputer’s mph
and maintain the group’s speed when the lead rider pulls off.
After your own bout against the wind, pull off to the
side agreed upon and stay close to the others as you soft pedal and slide back
to the rear of the paceline. This enhances the drafting effect for the whole
group. It also keeps everyone as far out of the traffic flow as possible,
making paceline riding possible even on busier roads.
As
you come abreast of the last rider in the line, pick up speed and then slide
over behind his wheel as he comes past. When done correctly you won’t need
an energy-wasting acceleration in order to latch back on. Once in the caboose
position you can take a drink or stand to stretch without disrupting the
paceline’s smoothness.
Protect
your front wheel. If your rear wheel is struck a fall is unlikely because it
has nothing to do with steering the bike. However, if your front wheel is
contacted it will often be twisted off line faster than you can react. You’ll
almost certainly go down. Help prevent this by never overlapping someone’s
rear wheel.
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