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RBR Newsletter No. 401
07/09/09

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This Week's Content

______________________________________ 


RoadBikeRider.com Newsletter

Issue No. 401 - 07/09/09:  Taming a Monster

ISSN 1536-4143

Produced almost every Thursday by RBR Publishing Company. E-mailed without cost or obligation to more than 62,400 roadies around the world.

 

 

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1. ROAD NOTES

 

Last week we recommended the Tour de France e-mail newsletter published daily by Carmichael Training Systems. You can have it delivered free by signing up at http://tinyurl.com/msygkf

 

In it Chris Carmichael, who has been Lance Armstrong's personal coach for more than a decade, shares insights about the man and the race that you won't find anywhere else. And importantly for all of us who ride as well as follow the Tour, some of Carmichael's tips are useful for recreational roadies as well as competitors. 

 

Here's an example. Earlier this week Carmichael wrote about a serious obstacle facing Lance in his comeback: anxiety about riding in a pack.

 

In the following Carmichael quote, substitute "group" for "peloton" and "ride" for "race" and you'll see what we mean.

 

"When you're nervous in the peloton, you waste a tremendous amount of energy," Carmichael writes. "You grip the bars too tight, carry tension in your shoulders and back, hit the brakes too hard and consequently need to burn energy accelerating again and again.

 

"And being overly focused on staying upright means you're not really paying attention to what's going on in the race. This is something you almost always see in amateur races -- riders who have the strength to contend for the victory but can't make race-winning decisions because they're entirely focused on not crashing. . . .

 

"Just a side note for those of you who are relatively new to the sport of cycling: I'd encourage you to take a cue from Lance's comeback. It's a good idea to enter some fast local group rides or races with the goal of just getting more comfortable in the pack. To do this, you have to challenge yourself. Don't just sit on the outside or at the back, move yourself right into the middle of the group so there are riders all around you.

 

"During these rides, don't worry about how you finish, just spend your time moving around in the pack. Find passing lanes to gain a few positions at a time, keep your eyes far forward to anticipate changes in pace, and practice feathering your brakes lightly to adjust your speed instead of panicking and grabbing a handful of brakes.

 

"It's difficult to simultaneously focus on gaining confidence in your handling abilities and concentrate on winning races, so separate these two processes and use a few events to just improve your skills. Once you have the skills, you'll be able to use them effectively to achieve the outcomes you're looking for."

 

Most of us don't compete in sanctioned racing, but group rides have a way of becoming fast and competitive, so Carmichael's advice is pertinent.

 

And think about the century you may be planning to ride later this season. If you usually ride alone or with a friend or 2, what'll happen when you find yourself with riders all around? Very likely the same thing Carmichael describes -- white knuckles, hunched shoulders, nervous braking, wasted energy and thoughts of crashing instead of achievement.

 

The only way to become comfortable in a group is to ride in a group. Lance did it in early-season races and the Giro d'Italia so he'd feel at home in the Tour. Now, after 5 stages, he's 0.22 of a second out of the lead and his pack apprehension is long gone.

 

Comment

______________________________________ 

 

Don't Just Ride, Ride Hard

 

Dr. Gabe Mirkin was approached by a relative youngster, age 66, with a question: "Am I harming myself by riding 40 miles (64 km) hard three times a week?"

 

This prompted the 75-year-old cycling physician to do some research, which he forwarded to RBR and posted in his free e-zine available at http://www.drmirkin.com

 

According to Dr. Mirkin, "Last week, Norwegian researchers reported their findings that high-intensity interval training maximally improves every conceivable measure of heart function and heart strength. It also helps to prevent both the pre-diabetic metabolic syndrome and the heart damage it causes (Exercise and Sports Sciences Reviews, July 2009).

 

"This is more evidence that older people who compete in vigorous sports, such as biking and running, live longer and suffer less disease than people who exercise at a more casual pace."

 

We'd add that before exercising this way, get clearance from your physician (no matter what your age).

 

Here's more of Dr. Mirkin's report:

  • "The most intense exercise includes interval training -- running or cycling very fast to become severely short of breath, then resting and repeating these almost maximum efforts several times in the same workout.
     

  • "High-intensity interval training raises the good HDL cholesterol far more than less-intense exercise (Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, March 2009). Intense exercise for older people is still a controversial subject, but these new results concur with many earlier studies.
     

  • "Intense exercise is far more effective than casual exercise in preventing and treating diabetes (Circulation, July 2008) and reducing belly fat (Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise [MSSE], November 2008).
     

  • "Vigorous exercise protects obese people from heart attacks and prolongs their lives, even if they don't lose weight (MSSE, October 2006).
     

  • "Death rate from cardiovascular disease is lowered by high-intensity activities such as running, swimming, hiking, tennis and climbing stairs, but not by lower-intensity activities such as walking, bowling, sailing, golf and dancing (Heart, May 2003). 
     

  • "Intense exercise is more effective in preventing heart attacks than less-intense exercise done more frequently (MSSE, July 1997)."

Comment 

______________________________________

 

Twitter Quitter

 

In May at the Giro d'Italia, Lance Armstrong stopped talking to reporters. He didn't like what was being written about him. He decided to fashion his own news and send it out through twitter.com, 140 characters at a time. His page at http://twitter.com/lancearmstrong now has 1.3 million followers, making him one of the most popular tweeters.

 

Armstrong's strong-arm tactics with the media have softened at the Tour de France. He seems to be talking with everyone. In fact, he's even done interviews with former U.S. Postal teammate Frankie Andreau of the Versus network.

 

That's remarkable because Andreau's wife has testified under oath that she overheard Lance telling doctors he used performance-enhancing drugs. If Armstrong was stiffing any reporter it seems Frankie would be the man.

 

For U.S. bike racing website VeloNews.com, Armstrong's silent treatment at the Giro resulted in a counter-boycott. Instead of picking up his tweets and passing them along to its readers as news, VeloNews declared it first had to have independent sources verify any factual info Armstrong was handing out.

 

"It's one-sided," said VeloNews.com editor Steve Frothingham in explaining the policy. "It's us just sitting there taking what he's giving. We can't just not ask follow-up questions, we can't ask any questions."

 

This is one example of Twitter's effect on today's journalism. If you'd like to know how the onslaught of 140-character microblogs is shaking things up in the media, read "They Tweet, You Decide" at http://tinyurl.com/m5ou79

 

Comment 

______________________________________

 

Overheard:  "Maybe the most daunting part of telling this story is that Lance is so very good at telling his own story. He's a masterful producer-director of his own myth." -- Alex Gibney, director of the $3.5-million Sony Pictures Entertainment documentary being filmed about Armstrong's comeback. Article at http://tinyurl.com/nd2las

______________________________________

  • To stretch or not to stretch? That's always been the question among cyclists. A new study has come up with an answer, sort of: Yes!  Stretch if you like to stretch and want a small amount of defense against soreness and injury. No!  Don't bother if you don't have the time or interest. The study found that stretching does not reduce the overall risk of injury, although it can reduce the likelihood of certain injuries to muscles, ligaments and tendons. In addition, people who stretch have only about an 8% less chance of experiencing soreness than people who do not stretch. A summary of the study with links to greater detail is at http://tinyurl.com/mbk3ds
     

  • The cyclist who was body slammed to the pavement by a cop during a critical mass ride in New York City is suing the NYPD for $1.5 million. A YouTube video of the unprovoked attack in July of 2008 has been viewed more than 2.1 million times. The cop filed a report blaming the cyclist, Christopher Long, for various infractions, then was fired after the video emerged and made him a liar. Long, 30, moved to a farm in Wisconsin because of the "psychological trauma" incurred in NYC, his lawyer says. Article at http://tinyurl.com/mkv3ky
     

  • Last week we suggested a source for summer long-sleeve jerseys, designed to keep you cooler than bare arms while providing UV protection. We should have mentioned the Club SPF-35 LS Jersey from Boure Bicycle Clothing, which is made of a unique fabric that allows cooling air to pass through while reflecting harmful rays. The guys at Boure have supported RBR with advertising for years, so if you're interested in this protective jersey technology please click http://www.boure.com/8605.html
     

  • RBR author David Rowe is competing in the 538-mile (866-km) Race Across Oregon this weekend. It's his major goal this season as he employs the methods detailed in his eBook, The Ride of Your Life. Rowe also is a guest on show No. 131 of The FredCast cycling podcast, discussing his training and commitment to this ultramarathon event, which he admits is way outside his comfort zone. You can follow Rowe's progress via a live satellite feed at WatchMyRace beginning Saturday at 5 a.m. PT. He welcomes your encouragement via the Twitter link on his website, http://www.readytoride.biz
     

  • How much money can you save by commuting by bike? If you switch from driving, here's a simple calculator that shows the amount your bank account will benefit each day: http://www.kiplinger.com/tools/bike
     

  • 35 U.S. riders have raced in the Tour de France, according to an article at ESPN.com. Currently 7 Americans are in the race, and each gets a short profile along with a "back story" at http://tinyurl.com/ltalrl
     

  • You can follow the Tour semi-surreptitiously in your office with ESPN.com's "Tracker," which puts lots of info plus live updates and real-time results in the corner of your screen. It's at http://espn.go.com/olympics/tourdefrance

  • Now on the website, RBR tech guru Jim Langley reviews Power Cordz -- lightweight, synthetic gear and brake cables. Are they better than conventional metal cables? Click here to find out. 

______________________________________

 

RBR's QUESTION of the Week

 

What's the most you'd pay for a pair of cycling shorts? 

 

We give you 8 ways to answer on our poll page, where you can also find an archive of previous questions and votes. Please click, vote and come back to finish reading.

 

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2. COACH FRED
 

How Can I Tame a Monster Climb?

 

Q:  My ride home ends with a half-mile climb of 18%. You often emphasize taking easy days, so how should I handle this monster when I want to keep my effort low and heart rate down? -- Steve P.

 

Coach Fred Matheny Replies:  I've heard of killer hills, but that thing should come with a casket and rosary beads.

 

When your rides end with a steep climb, the solution is to install a small gear so you can "walk" the bike up the hill. You don't actually get off and push, of course, but standing and pedaling slowly should feel like walking upstairs.

 

That's how Race Across America legend Pete Penseyres handles it. He lives atop a steep 800-vertical-foot climb in Southern California. He rides it hard when he wants training, but stands and pedals slowly when he wants recovery.

 

Here's one solution when a hill really is an unavoidable daily monster: consider installing a triple crankset or investing in a bike that has one.

 

With a triple you can use the larger 2 chainrings just like a double crank for most of your riding, then shift to the small inner ring for the "bailout" gear needed to get up your home hill without undue strain.

 

Another option is a compact crankset with 50/34-tooth chainrings, an 11-32 or 11-34 cassette and a derailleur that'll handle the range.

 

I've rigged a bike specifically for easy days by fitting it with an ultra-low gear. It's a Rivendell Atlantis complete with drop bar, mountain bike drivetrain, fenders and 26x1.4 tires. I can go real slow on this bike -- or use it for epic rides in the hills.

 

The idea is to have 2 or 3 low gears to choose from for ascending your personal Alpe d'Huez, depending on how hard you want to climb.

 

When you have the right gearing for the terrain, a climb is only as tough as you want it to be.

 

Comment

 

(If you want to ride hills better and appreciate this type of straightforward, doable advice, you're going to love Coach Fred Matheny's upcoming eBook, "Climbing for Roadies." It covers ascending from bottom to top, along with a detailed section on fast-but-safe descending. Look for its introduction next week in the RBR eBookstore.)

______________________________________

 

Longer, Stronger, Faster

 

Endurance is fairly easy to develop. But simply riding longer distances is one-dimensional. It builds stamina and a certain amount of fitness, but it does little to improve your pace. In fact, it could turn you into a sluggish plodder.

 

Fortunately, there's a proven way to increase your cruising speed at the same time you're building endurance. It's a training method that will pay off in century PR's and better performances in other long-distance rides and events.

 

The method is explained by Coach Fred Matheny in his new eArticle, "Swift Endurance: How to Go the Distance Faster." You'll find it for $3.99 -- the same affordable price as for all 17 of our helpful road cycling eArticles -- in the RBR eBookstore. Order today, download instantly from your RBR account, and make your next long ride pay double dividends!

 

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3. CLASSIFIEDS

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Also on Classified Ads, these Roadie Ads:

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4. JIM'S TECH TALK
 

Chain Line Check

 

Does your road bike run smoothly when the chain is on the large chainring and the larger cassette cogs?

 

It should -- unless something's worn, defective, misadjusted or out of alignment. This last possibility is what I'll look at this week.

 

I heard from a roadie with an older model Litespeed Ultimate, which has chainstays on the order of 39.3-cm long. The bike is fitted with an Ultegra drivetrain (double crank and 12-27 9-speed cassette). She says the chain jumps when she combines the big ring with the 24- or 27-tooth cog.

 

It's not unusual for a drivetrain to run poorly when the large chainring is combined with the 2 or 3 largest cogs, although usually it's just rough and noisy, not so bad that the chain jumps.

 

I'll assume that the chain is the correct length, as one that's too short can cause roughness. It should be just long enough to allow shifting onto the large chainring / largest cog combination with no slack when in the small ring / smallest cog combo. 

 

If you experience the Litespeed owner's problem, check your bike's chain line for the correct relationship between the crankset and the cassette. It's easy to do with a long straightedge that can fit between the chainrings. Here's how:

  • With the chain out of the way, slide the straightedge between the rings and let it rest on the cassette.
     

  • Notice where it aligns with the cogs.
     

  • On a 9-speed cassette, the straightedge should rest on the 5th cog, i.e., the middle of the cassette. On a 10-speed it should rest between the 5th and 6th cogs.

If the straightedge lines up towards the smaller cogs, the chain angle from the big ring to the bigger cogs is worse than it should be and that's likely the reason the chain won't stay put.

 

I should point out that it's best not to use the big ring / biggest cog combination (in this example the 27). But you still need to have an accurate chain line because sometimes this shift is made without realizing it and you don't want problems. Also, if the chain line is off it can affect shifting throughout the range.

 

A bad chain line can be corrected, but because parts are usually required, you'll probably want a shop to do the job. If the shop that built up the bike is available, it ought to be willing to fix the chain line for free if they got it wrong initially.

 

Note:  If the chain line is right, the problem could be a bent rear derailleur, which can happen if it hits something or the bike falls over.

 

To check, get behind the bike with the derailleur at eye level to see if an imaginary vertical line passing through the cassette cogs will continue through both derailleur pulleys. If not, it's a sign that the derailleur has been bent. Or it might be the frame's derailleur hanger, which is something a shop will be able to re-align or replace for you.

 

If things are straight, perhaps the top derailleur pulley is bumping into the larger cogs. To fix this, turn the topmost screw on the back of the derailleur where it attaches to the hanger. This is called the B tension screw. Turn it clockwise in half-turn increments to increase the clearance between the pulley and cogs.

 

(Jim Langley has been a pro mechanic and cycling writer for 37 years. At RBR he's the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop and moderator of the "Roadie Rap" technical forums on the Premium Site. Check his personal website at www.jimlangley.net, his Q&A blog and updates at Twitter. Jim's streak of consecutive cycling days has reached 5,656.)

 

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David Ertl is a USA Cycling Level 1 coach who specializes in helping roadies gain the most from every ride they take. Hundreds of cyclists are already benefiting from his 2 new eBooks at RBR: Training for Busy Cyclists and 101 Cycling Workouts.

 

The first eBook shows you how to make the most of just 3-5 hours of riding per week. The second ensures that you won't get bored with training on the bike, in the weight room or when crosstraining.

 

To read excerpts and see the tables of content, visit the RBR eBookstore. Order today and download instantly from your RBR account.

 

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5. NO PROBLEM!
 

Panic Stops

 

What's the matter?  You're riding down the street when a giant SUV suddenly pulls out from a stop sign. The shocked driver sees you and slams on the brakes. Now the road is blocked. Swerving won't help. What can you do to avoid running headlong into a sheet-metal wall?

 

Bike brakes are efficient. They work great for modulating speed before a corner or on a descent. They can stop you fast too. But there's a problem when that happens: The bike slows abruptly but your body keeps going. The rear wheel lightens and the front tire pushes into the pavement under the impetus of your shifting weight. This means the front brake is much more effective than the rear, which can easily skid because there's less weight on it.

           

However, if you apply the front brake too hard, you could tip over the handlebar. That's not a good thing in any circumstance, and when you're trying to avoid ramming an Escalade it could make the outcome even more painful.

 

Here's help:  The trick to stopping as quickly as possible is making an effective weight shift while using the front and rear brake together.

 

An ideal way to learn is to practice on a smooth, level grassy field. Make sure it's one where a few thin skid marks won't get you in trouble (this rules out the 18th green), and be sure to wear your helmet and gloves. Here's the drill:

  • Get a feel for braking.  Ride at about 10-12 mph (16-19 kph) and apply both brakes normally. Notice the rate at which you slow and stop. Repeat, increasing braking pressure each time until the tires skid. Apply the front brake harder than the rear, then do the opposite. You're getting a feel for how your bike and body respond. You'll notice that the harder you brake, the more pronounced the tendency of the bike to buck you off the front.
     

  • Test rear vs. front.  Riding at the same pace, apply only the rear brake. Squeeze the lever hard and notice how the rear wheel skids. Then apply only the front brake. Be careful. See the difference in stopping power.
     

  • Learn the panic-stop position.  Get low and brace with straight arms to push your weight back and keep it back. This counters the tendency of your momentum to launch you over the bar as the bike slows abruptly. This works best with your hands in the hooks (if you have a choice in real conditions). Hold the crankarms horizontal so you can brace against the pedals.

Keep working on this till you're able to slide so far back that your butt is behind the saddle. If you skid, this low, balanced position should allow you to control the bike and stay upright.

  • Graduate to pavement in an empty parking lot. Be careful -- falling on asphalt hurts more than falling on grass. Don't do so much skidding that you ruin your tires, but use the drills just described to get a feel for tire adhesion on the real thing.

Tip:  Practice the panic-stop position until it's ingrained. Then do it occasionally when stopping on a regular ride. No need to skid, but pretend that SUV is right there. This will keep your technique honed and ready for an emergency. Here's hoping you'll never have one!

 

Comment

 

 

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6. SCOTT'S SPIN
 

Drinking Buddy

 

Do you have a favorite water bottle? I do.

 

Ridiculous, I know.

 

The water bottle has to be the most low-tech thing on your bike. Made of boring old plastic, it just sits there holding liquid. Bonks you on the head when it falls out of the kitchen cupboard you just opened.

 

If you don't get most of your bottles for free, you're not trying hard enough.

 

And yet, my population of bottles has a clear caste system. For easy rides I reach for any of the bottom dwellers: the bottle that dribbles if you don't screw the top on super tight, the bottle whose nozzle got mangled when the dog tried to drink from it, or the bottle stained puke green from tropic-lime energy drink.

 

For tough rides I grab one of my elite bottles: the one made from plastic that's the perfect grade of squeezability, the one whose nozzle neither leaks nor sticks, or the one that somehow never got marred by a cage.

 

Then there's what's printed on the bottle. For extra-hilly rides I need the bottle I got from the Mt. Cramp Hillclimb. Long days demand one of many bottles cadged from century rides. When riding with someone cute and single, I might opt for one of my charitable-causes water bottles as a subtle sign that I'm a save-the-whales kinda guy.

 

None of these choices has had the desired effect -- yet -- but that doesn't really matter. The point is that I feel a little better knowing I have the right bottle for the job.

 

And I definitely feel worse when I ride off while that bottle is still on the kitchen counter. 

 

Comment

 

(Scott Martin's eBook, Spin Again, contains 181 of his witty, sometimes wacky, and occasionally heart-felt observations on road cycling. Click here to enjoy 3 classic Spins again and place your order for instant delivery by download.)

 

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Newest Content on RBR's Premium Site

 

Note:  Members can find the links to this exclusive content on the What's New? page after logging on.

  • In What's On, Ed Pavelka writes a mini review of heart rate gel as he tries to stop bogus max HR spikes during rides.

  • In "The French Disaffection," Les Woodland looks at why Armstrong ain't no LeMond in the hearts of French cycling fans.

  • In Matheny's Musings, Coach Fred parks his ferrous frames after 37 years and tells what it's like when "A Metal Man Goes Carbon."

We welcome you to join the Premium Site for access to these articles and 261 web pages of exclusive road cycling advice, information and entertainment. Just $24.99 per year for 24/7 access, including 3 bonus eBooks and a 15% discount on all products in the RBR eBookstore. Click here to check all the bennies.

 

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7. TRY THIS ON YOUR NEXT RIDE
 

Test Your Best Cadence

 

Lance is at it again, spinning his way through France. In the late 1990s he popularized high-cadence pedaling in time trialing and climbing. Now he's not the only one with blurry legs.

 

He didn't always ride this way. He taught himself to spin at about 90 rpm on even the steepest climbs, and he's regularly over 100 rpm in time trials.

 

But does Lance's influence mean you should be pedaling faster too? Not necessarily. Your cadence can be increased through training, but because of physiological differences not everyone can -- or should -- spin like him.

 

Here's a test that will help you determine your best pedaling rate:

  • Locate a 2-mile (3.2-km) stretch of road without intersections or traffic control devices. The ideal course contains several mild hills or goes into the wind.
     

  • Warm up well, then ride the 2 miles hard in your biggest gear (large chainring with smallest cassette cog). Your heart rate should be close to your time trial intensity -- the point where you're just this side of blowing up. Slog. Sweat. Note your finish time.
     

  • Recover for 20 minutes with easy spinning.
     

  • Ride the course again at the same heart rate. But this time choose a cog that's several teeth larger (lower gear) so you can keep a cadence around 100 rpm. Note your time.

Repeat this test after several days of rest, but reverse the gearing. Spin the lower gear first, then grind the big meat. Again, maintain the same high heart rate on both trials.

 

Now compare all 4 times. For many riders, the lower gear and higher cadence will produce faster times for less perceived effort. But if you're a Jan Ullrich type (remember him?) who's more efficient in a big gear turned at relatively low rpm, this test will reveal it.

 

Comment

 

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8. RBR eBOOKSTORE

 

Premium Site annual members automatically receive a 15% discount on every eBook, eArticle or other products in the RBR eBookstore.

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"Awesome! Thank you very much. Your policies have to be the best in the publishing industry! Such informative material too. Just awesome. Thanks again!" -- Larry W.

 

What has Larry so fired up?

 

RBR provides not 1 but 5 downloads of every eBook and eArticle purchased. So when Larry wondered about buying the new 4th edition of Bike Fit, we told him he didn't need to. As a previous purchaser of that eBook, the new edition had automatically been put into his RBR account.

 

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The "best policies in the publishing industry"? We're trying!

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HOT LIST:  July eBook Bestsellers

 

1.  Power to the Pedals (eArticle) -- a 12-week, 1-hour-per-workout power-building cycling program by Coach Fred Matheny
 

2.  Swift Endurance (eArticle) -- Coach Fred Matheny's "you can" training program for going the distance faster
 

3.  Bike Fit -- new 4th edition of Dr. Arnie Baker's illustrated guide to bike selection, setup and riding position for road and MTB

 

4.  101 Cycling Workouts -- never get bored or stuck in a training rut on the bike, crosstraining or weight training, by Coach David Ertl

 

5.  Training for Busy Cyclists -- how to become significantly fitter & stronger in just 3-5 hours of riding per week, by Coach David Ertl

 

6.  Strategy & Tactics for Cyclists -- secrets to road racing success from the coach of Olympians and winner of 200+ events, Arnie Baker, M.D.

 

7.  Finding the Perfect Bicycle Seat, 2nd Edition -- how to choose the safest, most comfortable saddle for your anatomy (men & women)

 

8.  Andy Pruitt's Medical Guide for Cyclists -- the original manual for professional bike fit, injury diagnosis & treatment by Andy Pruitt, Ed.D.

 

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10.  Fred Matheny's Complete Book of Road Bike Training -- SAVE! The Coach's 4 training eBooks all under one cover

 

Find these helpful "how to" cycling publications, and 34 others, in the RBR eBookstore.

 

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Thanks for reading, and for your support of RoadBikeRider.com. Look for newsletter No. 402 on Thursday, July 16. Meanwhile, enjoy your rides!

 

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Sylvain
7/9/09 07:59:26 AM
Enough of Lance !
 
If I want to read about Lance, I will go to the mainstream medias.

Thanks
 

Steve P.
7/9/09 04:46:48 PM
Maybe read the article first
 
If one were to read the section that mentions Lance, you would find that it is about riding technique, not Lance. don't be a troll.
 

Daniel Haden
7/9/09 09:11:18 AM
How Can I Tame a Monster Climb
 
A Sram PG990 11-32 with the top 3 cogs of a SRAM PG970 12-26 makes a cassette that is pleasant on a road bike. A 9 cog road shifter works this easily. And a 10 cog road shifter can use a Jtek converter (Jtek #2 for Ultegra-6600, 105-5600, R700).
If you have a double crank or a compact double crank, the "mountain" derailleur you will need is the smaller lighter version for cyclocross--Shimano RD-M581GS (LX goes with R700 and Shimano 105). An alternative is the 288 gram Shimano RD-M771GS (goes with Ultegra). Don't buy the "shadow" model!

Use the full size derailleurs (SGS) if you have a triple ring crank.

This climbing system goes well with the Dura Ace 9 (XTR) chain, which is also the strongest chain that can fit the system described above.

Talk to your wheel guy about a mixed cross rear wheel (like at least 28 spokes, 3x-drive, 2x-NDS) that will be able to handle the extra torque and transmit your efforts efficiently (without wasting your efforts). Perhaps Kinlin rims too.
 

Daniel Haden
7/9/09 09:37:02 AM
bike type for 16% and taller grades
 
A Rivendell Atlantis was mentioned in the article. Its a delightful bike, but I'm not quite strong enough to enjoy such a tall grade on it.

Simply put, it isn't a "climbing centric" performance model (except for when you AND your friends are all doing loaded touring).

However, it does have some important technology aboard:

Metal chainstays!!!
Sufficient gearing.
Very light rims!!!
Supple front tire.
Strong chain.
Strong seatpost.
Zero flex drive system!!!
Ample rear spokes!!!
Strong bearings.

And these things that are so helpful to the Atlantis, can also help a road bike.

It seems that the article simply stopped. . . before delivering the specific information that can work on the bike that you already own.
 

Chuck B.
7/9/09 10:37:00 AM
Taming a monster climb
 
I'm not a good climber. I ride a Specialized Roubaix triple (52/42/30), and do a ride called Cycle Oregon every fall that always has mountains. A couple of years ago I had my LBS install a mountain cassette an 11/34 mountain cassette and the appropriate hardware. Mountain gears are great!

I've only lost maybe 1 or 2 mph on the top end, and I can creep up steep hills without blowing up.
 

Kevin
7/9/09 11:30:35 AM
Drinking Buddy
 
With all the potential problems of old plastic, I have opted for Klean Kanteen's recycled stainless steel bottles. Works great, easy to clean.
 

john busteed
7/9/09 11:33:16 AM
Twitter
 
Twitter is like all of communication mediums; it has strengths (ask the Iranians) and weaknesses. Traditional media can say that it is crap all they want but it is not going away. There are excellent Twitter sources and buttheads just like the rest of the internets, newspapers, radio, and TV. Why should I wait for what Bicycling magazine will tell me in print next month when VeloNews (and probably Bicycling) will tweet the results this afternoon.

Lance is always going to have his bias when he tweets but so does any reporter for any publication. There is no such thing as an unbiased reporter. You just have to understand their bias as you process data from them.
 

Butch
7/9/09 12:11:27 PM
What about bone loss?
 
Has this physician done any bone scans to see at what point riders begin to lose bone density? Is forty miles three times a week going to be a problem for an older guy in terms of bone loss? I'd sure like to know.
 

John Schubert, Limeport.org
7/9/09 12:40:01 PM
Maximum performance braking, Part 1 of 4
 
Uh, Fred forgot a few things.

First of all, I don't call it "panic braking." It's the opposite of panic -- it's executing fine control.
Second, the important thing you need to understand, and then learn to control, is the bicycle's own weight shift (which is different from your position shift).

In a maximum performance stop, virtually all your braking power comes from the front brake. This is because when you decelerate, you get major weight transfer from the rear wheel to the front wheel. (Skeptical? Try stopping your car with the handbrake alone. The stopping distances will be astonishingly long.)

This weight transfer is just fine until it reaches zero. When it reaches zero, the rear wheel becomes unweighted -- and starts to lift up. This is a pitchover accident in the making. At this moment, most riders do indeed panic -- they hold onto the brakes harder. And so the rear wheel lifts up and they inelegantly fly over the handlebars.

(continued below)
 

john Schubert, Limeport.org
7/9/09 12:41:09 PM
Maximum performance braking, Part 2 of 4
 
A properly trained cyclist can brake just below the threshold of pitchover. This is a skill that comes in handy in emergencies. Here's how you do it:

-- Begin with a bit of reflex training. Grab an old beater bike (no carbon forks allowed) with brakes in good condition. Accelerate to brisk walking/slow jogging speed, and grab the front brake. Feel the rear wheel lift off the ground, and let go of the front brake to let the rear wheel back down. Do this until it becomes a well-practiced reflex. Do it again on several successive days. You want this to be a very well practiced reflex!

-- Now train yourself at higher speed. Accelerate to, say, 15-20 mph. Squeeze both brakes, but squeeze the front brake three times as hard as the rear brake. Continue squeezing harder and harder. When you have unweighted the rear wheel sufficiently, the rear wheel will begin to skid. Stop that skid by letting up on your front brake. You have now experienced maximum performance braking.
 

STEVE S. (Certified Instructor)
7/9/09 12:41:40 PM
Great Tip
 
This is a great tip, and one skill that you will eventually use on the road. The League of American Bicyclists teach this technique in their one-day, "Cycling 1" (or "Road Cycling 1" class) as well as the 'rock dodge'. BOTH very useful skills.
The classes are a worthwhile investment for those riders that are looking to improve their skills and ride the road safely.

STEVE S. LCI
 

john Schubert, Limeport.org
7/9/09 12:42:17 PM
Maximum performance braking, Part 3 of 4
 
-- Practice this repeatedly. And then practice it monthly if you want any hope of retaining the skill.

And now the numbers:

My best estimate is that most riders who are trained in maximum performance stopping technique make maximum performance stops at about 0.5 G (although the theoretical maximum is about 0.67 G). This means that you are being pushed forward by a force that feels like half of your body weight.

Most good riders who haven't had maximum performance stop training can manage about 0.3 G.

(continued below)
 

john Schubert, Limeport.org
7/9/09 12:42:53 PM
Maximum performance braking, Part 4 of 4
 
This explains why some accidents that aren't classic pitchover may be categorized with pitchover by the non-hair-splitting observer. If a rider isn't braced during an 0.3 G stop, he can move forward off the bike, even though the bike itself isn't pitching over. The remedy to this kind of accident is simply to hang on (but not increase your grip on the brakes.)

You can read more about this in my book Cycling for Fitness, John Forester's Effective Cycling, John Allen's Street Smarts and David Gordon Wilson's Bicycling Science.

-- John Schubert
www.Limeport.org
 

Longinthetooth
7/12/09 07:06:49 PM
How far back are you saying?
 
I am not expecting an exact measurement, just trying to get a general idea of just how far forward of the pedal spindle the ball of the foot should go. Are you talking about a couple of mm, or centimetres?
 

Mack
7/9/09 12:59:37 PM
Radical Alternative to Performance Braking?
 
I've never seen this suggested, but all the talk about "emergency braking," err, "executing fine control," has got me wondering if anyone has seen anything or thoughts about "laying it down" like motorcyclists are taught to do when they see that they are about to "T-bone" a car?

Maybe it's not possible to pitch a bike sideways at 25-40 mph so you hit that SUV or car while sliding on a hip with your bike and feet out front, but it might be a reasonable alternative to plugging in with your head and chest first. It's really going to hurt, of course, but maybe you'd live to ride another day.

Anyone?
 

Jeff T
7/9/09 02:05:42 PM
Leathers
 
Lay the bike down at 25 mph? You're more likely to stop before you hit the car if you leave your tires on the ground. Remember that motorcyclists who "lay it down" are wearing leathers to protect them from the road. As for myself, I'll use the proper quick stopping technique or the 'quick turn' to try to avoid a collision rather than surely tearing myself up on the pavement while increasing my stopping distance.
 

Paul Ahart
7/9/09 01:20:48 PM
Fixing drive alignment
 
Jim's article on drive alignment is important. One thing he didn't mention is what you can do in the bottom bracket department to fix it. Many stock bikes have horrible drive alignment and this can be fixed or improved by changing the spacers that come with Shimano's external BB. They "recommend" 2 spacers on the right, 1 spacer on the left. I often change it to 1 on the right, 2 on the left, bringing the cranks in about 3mm.
Getting the chainrings too close to the chainstays can create front shifting problems if the seattube is 1-3/8", as on many carbon and some aluminum frames, as the front drailleur will only go in so far. This might require a compromise on drive alignment. Steel frames with 1-1/8" seattubes are a piece of cake. With older square taper bottom brackets, it is easy to use a shorter unit.
 

Steve
7/9/09 02:07:03 PM
Ultegra 9-speed shifting problem
 
I was having similar problems to those described. My rear derailleur did appear "bent" but only when on the large chainring. In the end, I concluded that the derailleur pivots were suffciently worn that they were allowing the derailleur to flex inwards towards the frame, and this effect was much greater on the large chainring due to the greater extension of the derailleur. New derailleur solved all problems.
 

WayneS
7/9/09 03:10:51 PM
Twitter vs. Velonews, Cycling News, New York Times
 
Twitter supplies much information. When it is provided by Lance I know it is biased towards Lance. When it is provided by Sastre it is biased by Sastre.

When the news media provides information it is biased by the reporter. But he pretends that he is unbiased. And nobody can easily offset his false information.

I'll take my news from twitter where it is easier to sort out the truth.
 

Zecutive
7/9/09 04:04:54 PM
Chain Line Checking on a Triple
 
Great article. I have read of another method that is much more complex.

How would one do this check on a triple with a 10 sp cassette?
 

Jim Langley
7/13/09 12:17:39 AM
Checking a triple's chainline
 
Good question. Rest the straightedge in both possible positions on the triple (between the big/middle and then the middle/small) and that will give you a way to gauge where the centerline on the cassette should be. Or, if you have 2 straightedges you could put them both in place, which would make it easier to see.

Hope this helps,
Jim
 

Steve P.
7/9/09 04:45:12 PM
How Can I Tame a Monster Climb
 
Taking Fred's advice when I first wrote in this question, I made the following modifications:

Ultegra triple front crank (30-42-52), shimano DX 11-32 mega-range rear cogset, and Shimano Deore XT long travel 9-speed rear derailleur. Shifters are Shimano 105 9-speed / triple. This setup works great! I can use the smallest 7 cogs on the 52, all of them (with slight clicking top & bottom) on the 42, and the largest 6 cogs with the 30-tooth.

I lose nothing on the top end, since I still have 11x52, but I can pull stumps with 32x30.

I also tried a SRAM PG970 11-32 with the original medium travel rear der. - too much clicking. Switched to the LT rear der, and better, but whatever the small spacer differences between the Shimano and the SRAM cogset, the switch to the Shimano made the rear shifts all clean with the road 105 front shifters.

I am sure young guys might sniff at my pie plates. But I sure enjoy it when they get off and walk up a steep hill I can pedal up!
 

Daniel Haden
7/9/09 05:23:07 PM
Derailleur with Sram cassette
 
I have no idea why there is a difference between XT and LX, but the LX derailleurs (both GS and SGS sizes) work perfectly well with SRAM cassettes, like the PG990.

However, when I tried this with an XT rear derailleur, it was "easily irritated" as if the spacing wasn't quite right.

This is just an observation.
 

Rob
7/9/09 04:59:46 PM
How Can I Tame a Monster Climb
 
I could have written that letter as I also have an 18% climb coming home to finish each ride.

Unfortunately, there is no easy way around it (short of walking), regardless of gearing...18% is tough, even more so as a finish to a ride!
 

Daniel Haden
7/9/09 05:13:34 PM
Steve P.'s drivetrain
 
That all Shimano 11-32 + full size triple (big ring is 52) is also an excellent drivetrain option.

The cog spacing pattern makes it easy to go fast up until the 14t cog.
There is no 13t cog, and so the 12t and 11t are "downhillers" only.

Yes, this is just fine because of the 52t large size chainring. Considering that the big ring is a 52, this is sufficient gearing for flat ground speeds, including pace line.

The difference between this and a time trial gearing is that you may have to vary your pedaling speed by "up to" an extra 7% when using the mountain cassette and there may be "slightly" more shifting in a pace line.

Most people can do that easily.

In trade, the mountain cassette can save your knees, ankles, back and mood.
Kudos!
 

Steve P.
7/9/09 05:24:00 PM
The British Frenchman
 
Les Woodland however delightful the rest of his writing is, proves once again that his years living in France have affected him.

Les, when you said "Once you got to detailed followers like you and me, the majority said they were irritated that Armstrong was riding..." I am afraid you failed to draw me into your frankophile attitude.

And when you list L’Équipe as a serious sports daily, you made me laugh out loud. Sorry, chap, (or should I say garcon?) that does not wash.

I am delighted that Armstrong is racing again. Delighted to see an age 38 comeback, delighted that he at least knows how to feign humility, delighted that that he is doing well, and most importantly, as one intimately involved with LiveStrong, the LiveSTRONG Challenge series, and what the LAF has done and is doing to fight cancer.

French indifference notwithstanding.

I like a lot of the riders on the tour. L.A. is not the only story. But he is a good one.
 

Phil
7/9/09 06:15:51 PM
Saving money by bike commuting
 
I'm all in favor of bike commuting, and do it myself, but I think the Kiplinger calculator may be an overestimate of the savings. According to the calculator, I would save over $17/day from commuting by bike. This is from less parking, less gas, and less depreciation on the car--I assume since they don't really provide all the details of their calculation. However, did they take into account the cost of routine maintenance on a bike? They must also assume one wears old shorts and a t-shirt. Again, don't get me wrong, I'll continue to bike commute--I just don't think the financial savings are as much as they make them out to be--unless, maybe they're factoring in the savings from being healthier. Then, it's infinite.

Phil
Chevy Chase
 

32h2o
7/9/09 06:45:32 PM
RPMs
 
Was Jan more efficient at lower RPMs than he was at higher RPMs? I think that question is still out there. Maybe his Prussian heritage dictated his more traditional (at the time) power turns rather than modern experiment and discovery.
 

Michael
7/9/09 07:36:17 PM
Stretching
 
It was nice to see something more informed than "you should do it". My experience is that it reduces the usual mild stiffness a few hours after a hard ride, but has no long-term benefits and can easily /cause/ strains if not done carefully.

However, it's clear that some riders need to stretch regularly to combat chronic injury, joint dysfunction or muscle imbalance.
 

Longinthetooth
7/12/09 07:17:12 PM
Stretching
 
I think the evidence from this scientific study, is actually that regular stetching does not combat chronic injury, joint dusfunction or muscle imbalance is 90% of the population.

Stretching may have a theraputic benefit in treatment of the latter, but has little to do with prevention in the vast majority of the population particularly those over 20.
 

Lok
7/9/09 10:29:35 PM
Lance Armstrong
 
Please, please... we have enough of LA. We don't need more news on LA.The professional peloton is not just LA alone. There are hundreds just as capable. Please move on to other great riders.
 

Bob Torres
7/10/09 01:07:15 AM
Don't Just Ride, Ride Hard
 
I truely beleive that this approach does work. My age is not 77 but 50, and in my age group alone I see a big different on guys who do the easy stuff that they call work-outs compared to my interval training in which I also include a weight lifting program. I look younger than they do, they are still using medication to control their blood pressure or cholestrol problems. I have none of that to worry about. Plus I eat better than they do. I also feel that riders or any athletes that perform on a higher level also have a better diet to match their performance. We are generaly leaner and more optimistic in other things that we do in our lives.
 

Mark (Poseur)
7/10/09 02:12:41 AM
Riding Hard
 
Dr. Gabe

I really want to increase my level of work. I am able to ride for an hour in zone 4 without any issues, but I want to feel comfortable about biking over 160 bpm(zone 5. I am 59, with a 15 year old bypass graft (just a single from my leg) and I have type II diabetes. I cycle regularly with no heart issues and have regular exams. Ejection fraction over 55. However, I get scared that harder work may result in potential for another bypass. Folks tell me they only last for about 10 years and I am going on 16. What do you recommend, in general. (Not holding you to anything in particular.)

Poseur
 

Ed Pavelka, RBR editor/publisher
7/10/09 07:54:13 AM
Unavailable to answer
 
Sorry, Dr. Gabe Mirkin is not affiliated with RBR and does not view this page. We simply steal his stuff and put it in the newsletter. (Actually, as a road cycling enthusiast he likes RBR and encourages us to pass along pertinent info he publishes.) You may be able to reach him through his website, http://www.drmirkin.com
 

Mark (Poseur)
7/10/09 02:24:41 AM
Water Bottle
 
Why not try the Camel insulated bottles. Where I live, in Las Vegas, the summer runs 105 degrees and higher with the Las Vegas breeze (15-25mph). Add our hills (both ways, ya know) and we need to keep cool as long as possible.

Poseur
 

Steve Hirsch
7/10/09 03:03:57 AM
Low gearing for fast bikes
 
My set-up, for very low gearing, low weight, and high performance:

--a Shimano Dura-Ace 7800 triple crankset

--a Shimano XTR long-cage rear derailleur

--a Shimano XTR 11-34 9-speed cassette

--a JTEK Shiftmate Model #2 pulley, which makes my 10-speed Shimano Dura-Ace 7800 STI right shifter compatible with the 9-speed cassette.
 

Sandy Scott
7/10/09 08:01:22 AM
High Intensity Training for Older Adults
 
One of the biggest mistakes that I see older athletes make is placing limitations on themselves simply based on age. I find it interesting that a reader wants to know if three days of intense rides a week is harmful. Only he and his body can answer that question. Dr. Mirkin has no secret formula or athletic genie with the answer. Your body will tell you when you need rest and it will also demonstrate the value of hard training.

I, for example, am 69 years old, ride 27 hours a week, and have missed one day of training in the last year and a half. My rest day is comprised of 35 miles of easy spinning on the bike. That might not work for you, but then again it just might. Your body will answer those questions for you.
 

Biker Bob
7/10/09 02:03:10 PM
TAMING MONSTER CLIMBS
 
I'm using a 50/34 compact crankset with a Campi 12/29 cog set. I would love to install a bigger cog (like the 34 mentioned) but have been told it is not available.

Can you help?
 

Jasha
7/10/09 02:39:52 PM
favoirte bottle - yes
 
you hit the nail on the head. Especially the last comment - either on the kitchen counter, or in the back of the truck. Had to laugh, who hasn't left their bottles?
 

Bob
7/10/09 11:18:06 PM
pack riding
 
Ouch! I would never suggest a newb to jump right into the middle of a pack. Let them ride the fringe until they get more and more comfortable being close to other cyclists. The benefit of this is they'll learn the ettiquite of cycling in packs. As they learn and become more comfortable, they can move more and more into the middle and enjoy the benefits of the big draft and not endanger themselves and others by jumping into the middle of a pack of cyclists.
 

KeithBurris
7/10/09 11:35:17 PM
Drinking Buddy
 
I'll take whatever bottles I get for free, but I'll buy one from an LBS if I'm travelling and it's branded by the shop.

I rotate them at home and I use them when I'm back in the area.

I don't really need the bottle. I just want support the shop in an admittedly modest way.
 

Bob Torres
7/11/09 09:33:44 AM
How much money can you save by commuting by bike?
 
You can save money while commuting to work by bike but if you really want to prove that it will save a lot, you can not own a car. If you still own a car and also commute to work by bike, all that you save is gas and toll and some minor ware and tear for that day only! I've been commuting by bike since 1994 and I can tell you that the difference is really not much. All you need is a busted rear wheel on you bike, a new set of tires, or a new frame and all of that cost savings almost goes out the window. Now I am saying this because I still own a car, I still maintain it, insure it and still deal with everything that goes with it. And even though I would rather ride my bike to work, I still need my car. My commute to work by bike is not a friendly ride and in the winter, it is doable but pretty nasty! I would love to see everyone commute to work by bike but we need to correct a lot of everyone's twisted attitudes towards cyclist. Plus improve on access to work areas by bike!
 

ann
7/12/09 01:01:33 PM
favorite water bottle?!
 
Get a Camelbak and forego all those boring, bacteria breeding grounds represented by plastic water bottles!
 

Roy Hatfield
7/13/09 11:46:09 AM
Hard riding for the older generation
 
I'm also 66 and ride hard, as I have done for many years. However, like Sean Yates, I suffer from atrial fibrillation as a result of which I have to approach hills with caution as the additional work-load, unless properly managed, can bring on symptoms such as extreme breathlessness and light-headedness. On the flat (preferably with the wind on my back) I can keep up with anyone - it's really just a matter of being sensible and sensitive to your body messages.
 

Mike
7/13/09 03:25:17 PM
spinning vs grinding
 
Everywhere I look people are recommending spinning essentially because "Lance does it." Your test and suggestion that spinning may not be for everyone is refreshing. Since I have always felt most comfortable in the 75 to 85 rpm range (over 20 years of riding), I will probably never be a spinning advocate. In the meantime, I'll be trying some of your suggestions. I currently consider most people I see spinning up a climb to be "making ice cream" (spinning fairly fast, but not going anywhere). There are obvious exceptions to this, which seems to demonstrate that some should do it and some shouldn't. As always, thanks for the information.
 


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