RBR Newsletter No. 396 06/04/09 Go to this issue's Comments Back to newsletter archive Subscribe for free delivery by e-mail This Week's Content Weekly Dispatch:  Support for Mid-Foot Cleats Coach Fred:  How Should I Commute for Training? Classifieds:  (3 new) Jim's Tech Talk:  Seat Bag Stuff, Pt. 1 No Problem:  Descending Position Scott's Spin:  Coast to Toast Try This on Your Next Ride:  Work on Your Spin When Climbing RBR eBookstore:  Top 10 eBook Bestsellers ______________________________________  RoadBikeRider.com Newsletter Issue No. 396 - 06/04/09:  Uphill Skills, Downhill Thrills ISSN 1536-4143 Produced almost every Thursday by RBR Publishing Company. E-mailed without cost or obligation to more than 62,500 roadies around the world.   ______________________________________   NEW FATHERS DAY SPECIAL - JERSEYS - FREE POSTER Get a free mini poster with each jersey ($9 value). Many other gift ideas. Order early! www.BicycleGifts.com   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   1. ROAD NOTES   Moving cleats rearward as far as cycling shoes permit -- or even re-drilling the soles to put cleats way back -- is the secret to foot comfort among long-distance cyclists. Ultramarathon riders have been doing it for years. The reason it works is because it removes pedal pressure from the ball of the foot, the source of painful "hot foot."   As we've reported on the Premium Site, respected coach Joe Friel advocates a cleat location in the arch midway between toes and heel, and he and other experts cite various biomechanical advantages in addition to greater comfort.   Now German shoe designer Gotz Heine is making radically designed (and radically expensive) Biomac road shoes with what's called the "bio-mxc2" cleat location. At CyclingNews.com, technical editor James Huang examines midfoot cleat placement (promising) and the first production shoes designed to allow it (not so much). Interesting stuff. Several weeks ago RBR reviewed Assos F1 Mille cycling shorts. These aren't the elite Swiss company's top shorts, but at an SRP of $159 they still cost 2 or 3 times more than some other brands. We're continuing to wear them and like them somewhat better than in our initial review (3 stars), which is now in the Premium Site's Product Test archive. And we've been thinking: Is it really worth spending so much for a pair of bike pants? Do fit, comfort and durability increase with the cost? Let's find out. Now on the way to RBR are high-end shorts from Castelli, Craft, Pearl Izumi, Descente and Assos (an even costlier model than the F1 Mille). These 5 shorts range in price up to $190.   After a few hundred miles in each pair, we'll present our findings in a buyer's guide to help you decide if pricey shorts (and which pricey shorts) return the investment. More Americans rode bicycles for recreation and transportation in 2008 than in any year since the turn of this century, according to the National Sporting Goods Association and the Outdoor Foundation. According to the NSGA, 44.7 million people age 7 and older rode a bike more than 6 times last year, up from 40.1 million in 2007 and 35.6 million in 2006. The 11% increase is attributed to factors such as record high gas prices last summer, a growing green movement and increased funding for bicycle infrastructure. Overall, bike riding placed 6th in the NSGA's participation list, behind exercise walking, swimming, exercising with equipment, bowling and camping, in that order.   Product recall:  Novara Triofo 2005 road bikes. The forks on 260 of these bicycles, sold by REI, can separate from the steerer tube, causing the rider to lose control. Two crashes have been reported, resulting in a fractured clavicle, broken teeth, facial damage and head injuries. The Taiwan-built bikes are blue and white with black Aprebic forks. They were sold at REI stores in the U.S. from January 2005 through August 2006 for between $720 and $1,900. Owners should stop riding these bikes and return them to an REI store for a free repair. http://www.rei.com   Product warning:  Schwalbe is alerting riders about defective Ultremo R clincher tires (not a formal recall). Due to a problem in the manufacturing process, the affected tires' casing can bulge and blow out. The company puts it this way: "The tires need to be replaced immediately. Not doing so may lead to a catastrophic failure, as the carcass layer can chafe through, consequently causing the inner tube to burst." If you have a bulging Ultremo R, Schwalbe wants you to e-mail photos of the defective area and the production code (inside the tire) to ultremo@schwalbe.com. A free replacement tire will be provided. See detailed info on the Schwalbe website.   Shimano is offering free pedals to purchasers of its new Dura-Ace Di2 electric road group. The offer of Dura-Ace PD-7810 SPD SL pedals, which retail for $300, is good through July 31. We noticed that Di2 is already being sold by at least one mailorder company, although not at a discount from the $3,318 MSRP for the Dual Control levers, electrically operated front and rear derailleurs and battery kit.   There's good motivation for long rides and there's bad motivation. A man who rode his bike 180 miles (290 km) for immoral activities with a 15-year-old girl he met on MySpace has been sentenced to 1-4 years in prison. William Wagner, 26, pedaled from Havre de Grace, Maryland, to Scranton, Pennsylvania, for the consensual encounter. "It was a peculiar set of circumstances, including that he rode his bike to meet her," said a district attorney. "I think the sentence is very fitting. He acknowledged that he knew her age and what he did was wrong."   Quick Tip:  You're approaching a cross street and a car is sitting at the stop sign, ready to start forward. Does the driver see you or is he about to pull into your path? First try to establish eye contact. That'll help confirm that you've been seen, although it's no guarantee as to what will happen next. So your second defensive tactic should be to eye the vehicle's front wheel. That's the surest way to tell if it's creeping forward and the driver may do something dangerous.   Now on the RBR website:  Our Review Crew tests and rates 2 top handlebar bags -- the Berthoud Model 22 and the Acorn Bags Boxy Rando -- and explains why it's a good thing if they'll fit your bike. ______________________________________   RBR's QUESTION of the Week   Which style of crankset is on your best road bike?   We give you 4 ways to answer on our poll page, where you can also find an archive of previous questions and votes. Please click, vote and come back to finish reading.   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   2. COACH FRED   How Should I Commute for Training?   Q:  I began commuting 6 weeks ago and love it. The route is 12 miles (19.3 km) each way with about 800 feet (243 m) of climbing. I want to use these daily rides to get fitter and so I tried to ride harder and do a faster time each day. That got old in a hurry. I realize that's not the best plan, but what is? -- Phil M.   Coach Fred Matheny Replies:  Your commute is long enough to provide good workouts. Simply adopt a training program and incorporate it into the daily routine of riding twice.   Well, it's not quite that simple. There is a danger when using commutes for workouts: overtraining.   An easy ride to work doesn't seem like much effort, but easy rides turn hard when you're running late or feeling frisky. And if you can't stop competing against your previous times you'll burn out quickly, as you discovered.   In your case, you also have a significant amount of climbing to consider. It's hard to do an easy ride in the hills. You need to have gears low enough to remove the strain on rides where recovery is the objective.   Here's the approach I'd suggest: Cruise to work each morning at an easy pace. Never ride hard. Just relax, spin and enjoy this invigorating way to begin your workday.   Do hard rides 1 or 2 days each week on the way home. Consider longer return routes and include intervals, hill jams or lengthy time trial-like efforts -- whatever your schedule calls for. You could even arrange to meet with a training group. It's important to discipline yourself to ride real easy when you go easy and real hard when you go hard. That's the key to effective training anytime, during commutes or not.   Comment ______________________________________   Longer, Stronger, Faster   Endurance is fairly easy to develop. But simply riding longer distances is one-dimensional. It builds stamina and a certain amount of fitness, but it does little to improve your pace. In fact, it could turn you into a sluggish plodder.   Fortunately, there's a proven way to increase your cruising speed at the same time you're building endurance. It's a training method that will pay off in century PR's and better performances in other long-distance rides and events.   The method is explained by Coach Fred Matheny in his new eArticle, Swift Endurance: How to Go the Distance Faster. You'll find it for $3.99 -- the same affordable price as for all 17 of our helpful road cycling eArticles -- in the RBR eBookstore. Order today, download instantly from your RBR account, and make your next long ride pay double dividends.   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   3. CLASSIFIEDS Also see the Classified Ads page on the RBR website and please support these advertisers that help make this newsletter free for you. ______________________________________    NEW SHOWERS PASS. Get outerwear that really works at http://www.ShowersPass.com. Waterproof-breathable jackets & pants. NEW Hybrid Cycling Lifestyle Collection. ______________________________________    Boure Bicycle Clothing $10 Coupon for RBR Riders! Use Coupon code "fancypants" for orders over $50 by June 30. See our new SPF-35 jerseys & more at http://www.boure.com  ______________________________________    Find & compare RENTAL BIKES at hundreds of bike shops nationwide! Reserve NOW for best selection. Many models and styles. http://www.RentaBikeNow.com  ______________________________________    Order Your "3 Feet Please" Jersey Today! Send A Direct Message To Motorists. It May Save Your Life. Free Shipping. http://www.3FeetPlease.com  ______________________________________    KNOG KLOSEOUT KORNER Save on knog shoes, bags, lights, etc. http://www.permaco.com  ______________________________________    Ride California's Coast & support Arthritis Foundation SF to LA, 525 miles (845 km) on October 3-10, 2009. Hurry! 300 rider limit. http://www.CaliforniaCoastClassic.org  ______________________________________    Also on Classified Ads, these Roadie Ads: West Virginia charity ride (new this week) Wanted: Female touring companion Wanted: RBR cycling writers  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   4. JIM'S TECH TALK   Seat Bag Stuff, Pt. 1   I live by the bicycle mechanic's credo that I'll help any cyclist in trouble. Sometimes that person is me, but more often it's a rider broken down on the side of the road without the right stuff to fix the problem.   To be able to help, I carry a small tool kit on every ride. You should too. Even if you don't know how to use all the tools in it, other riders who stop will be able to lend a hand.   This week I'll discuss what to carry for the most common cause of breakdowns -- flat tires. Next week I'll add the tools that'll help you cope with other mechanical predicaments.   Note that I'm talking about tools for day rides. If you're planning a multiday tour, you'll need to carry more tools and spares. The simple kit I'll be describing, which is comprised of only about 8 items, fits in a small seat bag and lets you handle most common issues.   By the way, I don't like how seat bags look and how they can mar seatposts. So I keep my repair kit in a heavy-duty zip-lock baggie and put that inside a wide-mouth, screw-top water bottle. On longer rides when I need 2 bottles of fluid, I put the baggie in my middle jersey pocket.   Tools/materials for Flat Tire Repair 2 or 3 tire levers for removing tires 1 or 2 spare tubes to replace a punctured one (same size, valve type and valve length as in the wheels) patch kit (in case you have more flats than spare tubes) 2x3-inch (5x7.6-cm) section of old tire to use as an internal patch ("boot") frame-mounted pump that works on your valve type (most road bikes have skinny presta valves) Recommendations   I like a full-size frame-mounted pump because it inflates quickly. You might need a mini pump if your frame's design won't allow a full-size pump to fit. Mini pumps usually come with brackets for mounting alongside a bottle cage. Be sure to get a pump that you find easy to use. Your local shop or riding buddies will have their favorites, but try before you buy.   The boot will save the day if you ride over glass that puts a large slice in your tire. The boot goes inside the tire to cover the hole. You don't need to glue it; it's held by the inflated tube. It'll keep the new tube from protruding and blowing out as you ride home.   In a pinch you can use various things to boot a tire -- from cash (a folded bill) to trash that you find on the roadside. But if you carry a boot -- ideally made from a folding tire with the beads trimmed off -- it will always be handy and work for most damage. For example, a tire could be cut near the rim's edge. That's difficult to cover with a makeshift patch, easier with a homemade boot because it's curved just right to stay in place.   Lots of bikes today have deep V-profile rims that require tubes with long valve stems. If this describes your wheels, be sure your spare tubes have long enough stems or you won't be able to get the pump on.   Because I want to be prepared to fix all bikes, I carry a valve-stem extender. It lets me inflate short-stem tubes on tall rims. Your local bike shop may stock extenders or can order them for you. Carrying a small extender uses hardly any space and can save the day if you're out of tubes and your buddies are carrying short-stem spares.   Next week in part 2, I'll look at what you need to remedy problems with other parts of the bike.   Comment   (Jim Langley has been a pro mechanic and cycling writer for 37 years. At RBR he's the author of Your Home Bicycle Workshop and moderator of the "Roadie Rap" technical forums on the Premium Site. Check his personal website at www.jimlangley.net, his Q&A blog and updates at Twitter. Jim's streak of consecutive cycling days has reached 5,621.) ______________________________________   Training More?   Yes, most of us are now that spring is here.   But are you training WELL?   David Ertl, a USA Cycling Level 1 coach, specializes in helping roadies gain the most from every ride they take. Hundreds of cyclists are already benefiting from his 2 new eBooks at RBR: Training for Busy Cyclists and 101 Cycling Workouts.   The first eBook shows you how to make the most of just 3-5 hours of riding per week. The second ensures that you won't get bored with training on the bike, in the weight room or when crosstraining.   To read excerpts and see the tables of content, visit the RBR eBookstore. Order today and download instantly from your RBR account.   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   5. NO PROBLEM!   Descending Position   What's the matter?  Your friends go downhill fast in strange postures. One bends low over the top tube and holds the handlebar close to the stem, his nose nestled between his knuckles. Another puts his butt behind the saddle, resting his stomach on the seat. A third actually sits on the top tube, chest on the handlebar and chin almost touching the front wheel.   These guys scare you just watching them. It makes you wonder, what's the best descending position? Is it necessary to be in one of these radical postures?   It's true that once you're going so fast that you're spun out in your largest gear, superior aerodynamics can add substantially to descending speed. Your friends are copying the pros, who try to get as low and narrow as possible, even risking stability.   But hey, they're pros. They're great bike handlers or they wouldn't try such dangerous gimmicks. And they get paid to go fast so they're willing to take the risk. The rest of us can afford to descend slightly slower in order to be a lot safer.   Here's help:   Be balanced.  With the crankarms horizontal, rest about one-third of your weight on the pedals, one-third on your hands and the rest on the saddle. Pin the nose between your thighs for greater stability.   Touch the top tube.  As you coast down a fast hill, pin the bike's top tube between your knees or rest one leg against it, depending on the frame design. Doing so helps avoid shimmy (speed wobble) than can cause loss of control.   Keep hands wide.  Grip the brake hoods or put your hands in the handlebar hooks within easy reach of the levers. Forget holding the bar on top next to the stem. Sure, this position makes you slightly more aerodynamic, but it's less stable due to the narrow grip and it puts your hands far from being able to brake.   Look ahead.  Keep your back flat and head up. You're going fast, so problems come at you much quicker too. Looking well ahead helps you anticipate and react.   Relax.  The biggest descending error for most riders is unnecessary tension in the hands and upper body. Bikes are meant to be piloted with a light touch on the handlebar so the front wheel can move slightly back and forth for balance. But it can't happen if you have a death grip on the bar. Tension starts in the face and neck, so consciously relax your jaw muscles before you start downhill. Then let that relaxation flow down through your shoulders, arms and hands.   Be like a cat.  Laurie Brandt, a multi-time winner of the Leadville 100 MTB race, coaches riders to imagine they're a cat, emphasizing suppleness, relaxation and a "pounce" position on the pedals. It makes plenty of sense for roadies too. Feel like a feline on descents, weight balanced and ready for anything. Comment   (Adapted from Coach Fred's Solutions to 150 Road Cycling Challenges)   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   6. SCOTT'S SPIN   Coast to Toast   After watching Bicycle Dreams, a new film about the Race Across America, I'm still not sure why anybody would tackle RAAM as a solo rider. But I have new respect for those who do.   Director Stephen Auerbach set himself an unenviable task: Portray an event that lasts 8 or more days, covers 3,000 miles (4,830 km) and features a handful of largely unknown competitors who almost never see each other after the first few hours. How much drama can you extract from a lone cyclist pedaling an empty road beneath a huge sky?   Plenty. This 105-minute DVD about the 2005 RAAM offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of ultra-marathon cycling. Interspersing in-depth race coverage with interviews with competitors, crews and coaches, Bicycle Dreams attempts to explain what motivates people to ride virtually nonstop across a continent.   It's painful -- yet weirdly inspiring -- to watch the riders gradually break down as the miles mount. They hallucinate. They weep. They bicker with their crew. They collapse. But they keep going. It's about challenging your limits, one says. It's a spiritual journey, explains another. It's ordinary people accomplishing extraordinary things, adds a third.   It's also about danger. On day 5 in Colorado, Dr. Bob Breedlove -- an ultra-distance icon competing in his 6th RAAM -- apparently suffers a heart attack or seizure (it's still uncertain) while riding. He's hit by oncoming traffic and is killed. The 53-year-old orthopedic surgeon leaves behind 4 children and his wife of 32 years.   Still the race goes on. Jure Robic, a Slovenian soldier described as a "gentle monster," considers quitting while in the lead because he can no longer remember what his family looks like. Another shattered competitor resorts to a duct-taped neck brace to keep his head up so he can continue riding.   As one commentator says, "There's no way these people are normal."   And this is no ordinary cycling movie.   (Bicycle Dreams costs $19.99 and can be ordered at http://www.bicycledreamsmovie.com.)   Comment   (Scott Martin's eBook, Spin Again, contains 181 of his witty, sometimes wacky, and occasionally heart-felt observations on road cycling. Enjoy 3 more by clicking here.) ______________________________________   Newest Content on RBR's Premium Site   Note:  Members can find the links to this exclusive content on the What's New? page after logging on. In What's On, Fred Matheny writes a mini review of his new Blackburn Airstik 2Stage 84-gram mini pump. In "Do You Believe in Magic?" Les Woodland catches you up with the curious French cycling icon, Richard Virenque.   In Matheny's Musings, Coach Fred parks his ferrous frames after 37 years and tells what it's like when "A Metal Man Goes Carbon." We welcome you to join the Premium Site for access to these articles and 261 web pages of exclusive road cycling advice, information and entertainment. Just $24.99 per year for 24/7 access, including 3 bonus eBooks and a 15% discount on all products in the RBR eBookstore. Click here to check all the bennies.   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   7. TRY THIS ON YOUR NEXT RIDE   Work on Your Spin When Climbing   To develop a smooth pedal stroke at high cadence, the usual recommendation is to remain in your low climbing gear as you start a descent and spin it up to 110, 120 or higher rpm.   That works. But so does another approach that's worth trying.   It's the opposite, spinning a low gear while climbing a gentle grade (2-3%). Here's how: Choose a cog that's several teeth larger (lower gear) than you'd normally use for the climb.   Increase cadence steadily until you reach the point where you're bouncing on the saddle, then back off just a bit to settle down.   Hold that cadence for another 60-90 seconds. You may find this to be better than the downhill drill for 2 reasons: Going against gravity provides some resistance, and you can feel the pedals better. You won't spin out so quickly, if at all. However, you won't have the advantage of gravity helping you briefly reach a very high cadence that takes your legs where they've never been before.   Try both techniques. Together they'll quite quickly produce a more fluid pedaling style at high cadence. And that'll make you smoother during standard 90-rpm cruising. That's one payoff, and another will come when you need to rev up to escape a charging dog or contest a city-limit-sign sprint (or the finish of a real race). You'll have the ability.   Important:  Remember to keep your hips steady in the saddle. You don't want to cultivate a ragged technique. If you begin to bounce and flail, back off just enough to quiet down. As you get proficient at a given rpm, increase your cadence till you start bouncing again, and so on. It's useful to have a cyclecomputer with a cadence readout so can see your progress.   Comment   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   8. RBR eBOOKSTORE   Premium Site annual members automatically receive a 15% discount on every eBook, eArticle or other products in the RBR eBookstore. ______________________________________   "Awesome! Thank you very much. Your policies have to be the best in the publishing industry! Such informative material too. Just awesome. Thanks again!" -- Larry W.   What has Larry so fired up?   RBR provides not 1 but 5 downloads of every eBook and eArticle purchased. So when Larry wondered about buying the new 4th edition of Bike Fit, we told him he didn't need to. As a previous purchaser of that eBook, the new edition had automatically been put into his RBR account.   So far, 5 eBooks sold at RBR have been updated with new editions. The original purchasers haven't had to pay a penny to download them -- not even when the price increased.   The "best policies in the publishing industry"? We're trying! ______________________________________   HOT LIST:  May eBook Bestsellers   1.  Power to the Pedals (eArticle) -- a 12-week, 1-hour-per-workout power-building cycling program by Coach Fred Matheny   2.  Swift Endurance (eArticle) -- Coach Fred Matheny's "you can" training program for going the distance fast   3.  Training for Busy Cyclists -- how to become significantly fitter & stronger in just 3-5 hours of riding per week, by Coach David Ertl   4.  101 Cycling Workouts -- never get bored or stuck in a training rut on the bike, crosstraining or weight training, by Coach David Ertl   5.  Bike Fit -- new 4th edition of Coach Arnie Baker's illustrated guide to bike selection, setup and riding position for road and MTB   6.  Andy Pruitt's Medical Guide for Cyclists -- the original manual for professional bike fit, injury diagnosis & treatment by Andy Pruitt, Ed.D.   7.  Finding the Perfect Bicycle Seat, 2nd Edition -- how to choose the safest, most comfortable saddle for your anatomy (men & women)   8.  Fred Matheny's Complete Book of Road Bike Training -- SAVE! The Coach's 4 training eBooks all under one cover   9.  How to Make a Chain Catcher (eArticle) -- positively stop your chain from missing the small ring and falling onto the frame during front shifts   10.  Basic Training for Roadies -- Coach Fred Matheny's keys to understanding road cycling, making progress and riding like an athlete   Find these helpful "how to" cycling publications, and 34 others, in the RBR eBookstore.   o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o  o^o   Thanks for reading and for your support of RoadBikeRider.com. Look for newsletter No. 397 on Thursday, June 11. Meanwhile, enjoy your rides!   Click here to access your RBR account where you can: manage your newsletter subscription manage your customer account manage your Premium Site membership To automatically delete your address from our mailing list, simply send a blank e-mail to leave@roadbikerider.com from the address where you receive this newsletter. We'll miss you but you won't hear from us again. ______________________________________   Business owners! Your Commercial Ad will be delivered to 62,500+ road cycling enthusiasts via this weekly newsletter, and it will appear on our website with your logo or product photo. Get info here.   Roadies! Sell your spare bike and gear on our website for just $5. Click here. ______________________________________   This newsletter is a product of RBR Publishing Company:      Ed Pavelka, president      Fred Matheny, VP emeritus      1617 Kramer Rd.      Kutztown, PA 19530 USA      RBRPublishing@roadbikerider.com   All material is copyright © 2001-2009 RBR Publishing Company. All rights reserved. Back to top Go to newsletter archive Subscribe for free delivery by e-mail   Comments Archived comments are "read only." Replies aren't able to be posted.   DNM 6/4/09 06:32:42 AM Fred is Right... Again   Using the morning commute as a true recovery ride (sometimes I even use a HRM to assure zone 1) is a good way to prevent over-training. Adding in the couple of interval days allows those rides to "count" as training as well. Commuting, then joining the group rides adds distance and variety.   John Mullineaux 6/4/09 06:39:21 AM Seat Bag Stuff   Instead of a frame pump, I use a mini pump to expand a new tube and a CO2 cartridge to fully inflate the tire. Much faster than a frame pump.   brunometric 6/5/09 08:14:30 AM seat bag stuff   You can leave the minipump at home. Just open the presta valve, stick it in your mouth and blow. Then quickly close the valve as you remove it from your mouth. The tube will contain enough air to shape it so it will seat in the tire. Nevertheless, BEFORE inflating, always, always, always inspect the entire circumference of the tire to be certain that no part of the tube protrudes under the bead. First, if there is a protrusion and it does blow, you risk also blowing out the sidewall of your tire. Virtually no one carries a spare clincher. A good boot made from an old tire may not be sufficient to let you use a tire with a blown sidewall. Second, even if you catch the protrusion before it blows, you may have used up your last CO2 cartridge and you are out of luck. Jim did not mention this very valuable tool: your cell phone. Program the phone number of the nearest taxi company. It may be your last resort.   Andrew 6/4/09 07:04:00 AM Good alternative to frame-fit pump   For years I was a Zefal HPX man. Then smaller lighter mini-pumps came into vogue. I tried two or three and never found one I liked ... I kept going back to the full-length Zefal. But finally I discovered Topeak's Mini-Morph. I think its even better than the Zefal. It's like a tiny track pump. Unlike both mini pumps and the legendary HPX, you place no strain on your Presta valve as you pump. Inflating your tire to 80-90 psi is much easier because you're not putting half your effort into holding the Presta valve steady against the force of your own pumping.   Layne Simpson, Simpsonville, SC 6/4/09 10:36:58 AM Flat repair   Jim Langley covered all the bases quite well in his list of must-have items for repairing a flat on the road but I would like to add one suggestion. I ride both road and mountain bikes and the the best "boot" fix for a punctured tire I have tried is Gorilla Tape. A stronger version of duct tape, it can usually be found at any hardware store. A six-inch strip of this material is light in weight, takes up almost no room in an underseat bag and is as strong as, well, a gorilla. I used four layers of it to patch a puncture about the size of wooden pencil in the sidewall of a mountain bike tire and it worked so well, rather than replace the tire I decided to continue using it to see how long it would hold up. That was 500 miles ago and the tire is still going strong. Layne Simpson Simpsonville, South Carolina   Evelyn 6/4/09 10:54:05 AM Wheels of passion: chap 1   LOL!!! I can't wait for more....   Poppadaddio 6/4/09 10:56:29 AM Seat bag stuff   If you want to be able to assist other riders, include one of those little brass Presta/Schrader valve stem adapters.   James W 6/4/09 11:00:35 AM Keep your tools dry   Jim Langley is right on the money about which tools to carry. I've found the best way to carry them, though, is in a small dry bag like this one: http://www.rei.com/product/737118 They're available at stores that sell canoe and kayak equipment. The smaller ones will hold everything but the frame pump and still fit in your jersey pocket. The bag keeps water, debris, and sweat from damaging your tools and is very portable. I also carry my id and ATM/credit cards in a waterproof case like this one: http://www.rei.com/product/723131 Again, it's portable, waterproof, and fits easily in a jersey pocket.   rob hawks 6/4/09 11:47:11 AM Disliking seat bags   I understand Jim's dislike of how seat bags can mar the seat post. This is what I have done for my Randonneuring bike: http://picasaweb.google.com/bctlc8899/SFRandonneurs600KFortBragg?authkey=Gv1sRgCOq8la-v1NjKAg#5342249327223849730 The cloth was purchased from Rivendell. Inside are two tubes, a patch kit, some tire levers and maybe some allen wrenches too. I roll the whole thing up like a burrito. Even though it is only held in place by an old toe-clip strap, it doesn't budge. The photo is of my bike at mile 300 of the recent SFR Fort Bragg 600km brevet. The wrapped kit does not budge. I'd rather not carry that in my jersey pocket, even if it is light.   Scoobycpa 6/4/09 11:58:09 AM 3 feet please jersey   I need a new jersey so I finally checked this one out as a possible wardrobe addition. Then it occured to me that this is probably the most dangerous jersey out there. Motorists will be inclined to try and read it, which could naturally draw them closer to a cyclist and narrowing what might otherwise be a safe gap. Good intentions, bad result.   bd 6/4/09 12:34:17 PM re: 3 feet please jersey   I have been concerned about that too. I live in a rual area in New England, narrow roads and many curves. I notice that often when I meet cars at blind corners they have a tendancy to drift out of their lane toward me. Although I don't think I'm all that good to look at, I assume that they are just folllowing their gaze in watching me instead of the road. A jersey with a prominent message to read could very well have the same effect.   Jules D. Zalon 6/4/09 12:34:37 PM Defensive Riding   In the "Quick Tip" in your June 4th issue, you suggest trying to establish eye contact with drivers sitting at stop signs, to make sure that they see you. I have another idea: I always ride with an Acme Thunderer police whistle hanging from my neck, and it's in my mouth whenever I'm in traffic or there are side streets. And unless I am certain that the driver sees me, I blow the whistle . . . LOUDLY. Trust me, when a driver hears a loud police whistle, their immediate reaction is to hit the brakes, whether or not they see you. It has never failed me, and it has saved me from an awful lot of hairy situations. I wouldn't ride without it. The only problem is that biting the damned thing could wear the enamel off your teeth, so I either wrap it with waterproof adhesive tape or slip a rubber mouthpiece over it. They both work like charms.   Bill in Tawakoni 6/4/09 02:40:48 PM Jim's Tech Talk   Putting the kit in a bottle is a good idea. But I would like to add that if you pack the tools in a old sock, you will have a ready "glove" to keep chain grease off your hands.   MSchott 6/4/09 02:46:07 PM Product warning: Schwalbe alert about defective Ultremo R clincher tire This is absolutely unacceptable. I don'thave any Schwalbe tires in stock and I won't buy any. Schwalbe tires cost a G.D. fortune ($70 each). At that price they should fly you to the moon and back. Schwalbe should not be asking customers to do R&D for free.   MSchott 6/4/09 02:47:35 PM Jersey Pocket Bag Here's a general idea of what to carry on a ride and it should fit in your jersey pocket: Super Glue, Ball-point Pen type 100% dependable tube, Patch kit (add a boot)* ONE tire lever. The entry key for your place of deaparture $10 bill, 4 quarters Ultra flate Co2 pump and 5 Co2 cartridges. Protein Plus Bar, n Non-Driver’s License ID Card Health Ins Card (or copy of ) Plastic M&M (candy) cylinder w/ thermolyte or endurolyte, maybe instant coffee Boot is a "small" rectangular section of Kevlar cut from a Kevlar belt; used to bolster an innertube in the event of a slice, tear or rip in the tire   MSchott 6/4/09 02:48:56 PM Should I Train on My Commute?   I Repeat: hire a t r a i n e r.   MSchott 6/4/09 02:54:19 PM Descending Skills The main thing to work on with regard to descending is maintaning momemtum through turns. Taking turns on a descent is a lot like taking them anywhere else. Look way ahead on the curve and press down onto the up side crank arm and handle bar. The idea being to force your tires to bite into the pavement instead of sliding across it.   Mike M 6/4/09 03:25:41 PM Rear cleat position   The rear cleat position is not for everyone. I tried it and my back hurt constantly for 2 weeks. I had a hard time standing on the pedals too. It no longer felt comfortable to stand. It did not work for me. A local bike fitter suggested the rearward cleat position( move the cleats as far back as possible on my existing shoes). I have been riding/racing and bike commuting to work for 25 years. What works for one person may not work for another. Mike M.   Bob 6/4/09 04:23:13 PM Assos F1 Mille cycling shorts   I wore the Assos F1 Mille cycling shorts 3400 miles from L.A. to Boston last year (washed them every night). They were great and I am still wearing them this year. Other riders in our group that wore other brands were even wearing two pair and still had problems.   Walt 6/4/09 05:05:53 PM Descending Position   Many years ago, I had the experience of a loose stem bolt, both hands on the hoods and a sharp left turn at the bottom where I had to brake hard. The H-bar rolled forward and I could barely manage to brake sufficiently for the corner. Very scary. Now, I always put left hand on hood and right hand in the drop, that way there is near zero torque on the bar and braking is secure. Straight ahead in the corner, about 20 feet off the road was a barn. I pictured myself splattered on it's side. Not a pretty sight.   Tex 6/4/09 05:22:32 PM High-end Shorts Test   How about asking Ibex for a sample of their Duo Wool Bike Short. Lets have a little retro comfort added to your test.   Ed Pavelka, RBR editor/publisher 6/4/09 06:02:57 PM Wool shorts review   Review Crew member Lynne Fitzsimmons has tested wool shorts by Smartwool and Joneswares. Her review is tentatively scheduled to appear in 3 weeks. It'll be announced in the newsletter.   Tom G. 6/4/09 08:37:31 PM on the go tool kits   I strongly recommend taking a small bike multi tool that has a chain break on it or carrying a separately a small chain break (a cheap on sold widely is called "cyclo"). I feel these are more important than a collection of hex (allen) wrenches, though those are the more common thing to have. This is because you are more likely to find someone along the route who can loan you a screw driver or hex wrench, but a chain break is something only a bike rider would have. And the need does arise, but if rarely. I've made road-side fixes several times for chains that broke or got twisted and damaged. Tom G.   Austin Don 6/5/09 12:25:28 AM Quick Tip - Eye Contact w/ drivers   Absolutely! Same rules apply when driving in the relative safety of a 4 wheeled vehicle. However...in a place like Central Texas where it is common practice for automobiles and SUV's to have very dark window tinting, this sane and necessary practice is futile. This despite the fact that dark tint is illegal and we have a required annual "safety inspection". What a joke! When I am riding my bike, if I can't see the smiling face of the driver yet alone make eye-contact, I slow down or stop and let the jerks go first.   Walt 6/5/09 05:26:38 AM Eye Contact Safety   Several years ago a customer came into my store all beat up. I said, "What happened?" Turns out both be and the car driver made eye contact at very slow speed and very close distance and then both assumed that the other would wait and then both proceeded. Bang. Oops. So much for this approach.   brunometric 6/5/09 08:29:02 AM working on your spin   Riding a fixed gear bike a couple times a week can help. Set it up with a low gear like 42/16 or 42/17. Feather your brake on downhills if you can't keep up the cadence.   QuickQuestion 6/5/09 10:44:31 AM Seat Bag Stuff, Pt. 1   Isn't carrying this stuff what the team car is for?   TymT 6/5/09 05:09:45 PM Seat bags and pumps   I must be living right. I cannot seem to be bothered by the looks of a seat bag. On pumps, the tiny amount of waste that is a CO2 cartridge really bugs me, and I'll only use one if a group is waiting on me. Otherwise it's the trusty pump. Meh, to each his own.   Longinthetooth 6/5/09 11:26:38 PM Triple Chainrings   I was very surprised, delighted, to see so many other riders using a Triple. 30% is a much higher percentage than any group I ride with. For me the lower gears help me to Spin at the recommended faster cadence. I am often still seated as I pass grinding riders on the longer hills. I have Campag, but they seemed to have dropped the ball when it comes to triples, as they are no longer available in the Chorus or Record. Comparing like models, the weight saving between a Centaur double vs triple is insignificant, compared to the flexibility a triple offers.   wpr4u 6/7/09 10:35:44 PM Quality Shorts   For what it's worth from a guy who rides ultra long distances and has tried just about every short under the sun (including Assos F1), the flat-out best short IMHO is Specialized Pro RBX Short. Nothing compares.   Cannon guy 6/9/09 12:23:29 PM Tool kit holder   A variation on using a water bottle to hold tools... For a long time, I rode sans tool bag. I was able to cram everything I needed into a travel size soap dish box. Worked nicely - plastic box held everything in tight and protected my spare tube from punctures and was easily carried in a jersey pocket.   Atlanta 6/9/09 05:33:19 PM Stuffing a jersey pocket   "So I keep my repair kit in a heavy-duty zip-lock baggie and put that inside a wide-mouth, screw-top water bottle. On longer rides when I need 2 bottles of fluid, I put the baggie in my middle jersey pocket. " (Jim Langley's comment in last week's newsletter) Atlanta rider was side swiped last year, and wound up with broken ribs caused by a cell phone in his jersey pocket. Lucky it wasn't in his center pocket! Seems like a bad idea to put anything hard and bulky in a back pocket - unless you will never hit the pavement.   Adrian 6/9/09 08:35:36 PM It's true!   Water can get in that Little hole on the back of the frame at the top of the seat post tube. I had some creeking in the bottom bracket and took my Ti bike in to the shop for a check. Upon removing the bottom bracket there was a bunch of white dust that was sitting in there. It was my bracket that had begun disintegrate! These are all good ideas to keep the water out.   Back to top of Comments Back to top of newsletter Newsletter archive Subscribe for free delivery by e-mail